Gunky Carb Rebuild

I am rebuilding a carb for a 1953 International R-112 I'm getting back on the road after 35 years of sitting in the corn crib. I have decided to rebuild the carb as it is extremely hard to find a factory replacement Carter 735. The ONLY one I have found if it is even still available is $250 plus $100 core. So if mine doesn't core for some reason it would be $350.

Anyways, the inside has a ton of white crusty stuff that is extremely hard to get out. I have soaked it in diesel for weeks and got all that I can out with scraping and spraying pressured carb cleaner. Still a bunch crusted in the nooks and crannys that doesn't want to break loose.

Any suggestions? Are there specialty shops that have equipment to blast this crust out? Is there a different more potent product I should soak it in? I already have some ZEP Industrial Purple. Should I try that? The only other thing I have in mind at this point is to let it soak another week and spray another can of carb cleaner and put it back together. If it doesn't work then bite the bullet and buy one online somewhere.

I have always been a big fan of lacquer thinner. Ellis

A bead blaster works good for your problem.

You might try picking up an ultrasonic cleaner, maybe around 2 liter capacity, and use Zep or some other heavy duty cleaner to let it soak awhile.

The last few carbs Ive rebuilt Ive used PineSol. I was very surprised with the results I got.

I have used berrymans chem dip it worked pretty good

Plus one for the ultrasonic cleaner. I used Castrol Super Clean in the ultrasonic cleaner and it came out looking brand new.

diesel is absolutly useless for cleaning. you need to use actual carburator cleaner in which u disassemble the carb and imerse it in the gunk.the stuff is called " gunk" carb cleaner. it is also smelly so if you get any on your hands or clothes you know it. then after soaking for a couple hrs. you wash parts with cool water and blow out passages with air.been using this stuff for years. its expensive too. can buy in 1 gallon or 5 gallon pails. a gallon is about 70.00 now. that spray stuff dont work that well either.

I do a lot of carb rebuilding and i have old style carb cleaning chemicals that lets just say are not on the
list of friendly stuff . This Stuff will remove three layers of hide if you get it on skin . and even the steel can needs replaced about every three years . Diesel , gas/ your paint thinners will never get the job done , the spray stuff may get some of the crud off the out side . Sometimes on cast carbs even my stuff will not cut what i have been finding over the last few years and have to get glass beaded .

Last I used and keep I got from NAPA. It is CRC products TYME-1 Cold Parts Cleaner. Not cheap as in $50+ per gallon. You may want to look at the description on this for
use. If I remember right it states to remove all gaskets ect. as it will destroy many of these. As far as spray cleaners most are various paint thinner products that will
dissolve petroleum products but not dissolve corroded aluminum and pot metal

(quoted from post at 21:22:05 12/16/18) The last few carbs Ive rebuilt Ive used PineSol. I was very surprised with the results I got.

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I have some of the good stuff new still in the 5 gal can its Safety Kleen brand... I dread using it I have went to Pinesol and a hot plate if need be glass bead it if need B take it to a local small engine shop for a swim in his ultrasonic cleaner...

I do not miss the so called good stuff and shy away from it all I can... The smell of it lingers for weeks I am not into production anymore so scrape, poke and clean and don't worry about a quick clean anymore...

There is a reason they got rid of the good stuff its some nasty chit...

(quoted from post at 09:17:31 12/16/18) I do a lot of carb rebuilding and i have old style carb cleaning chemicals that lets just say are not on the
list of friendly stuff . This Stuff will remove three layers of hide if you get it on skin . and even the steel can needs replaced about every three years . Diesel , gas/ your paint thinners will never get the job done , the spray stuff may get some of the crud off the out side . Sometimes on cast carbs even my stuff will not cut what i have been finding over the last few years and have to get glass beaded .

Click to expand...

Exactly!! That stuff we used to get would remove skin, but for sure it did get the job done. There is nothing on the market today that even comes close.

Just take it apart like and take it to a motor shop where they have a Hot Tank that will get it cleaned.

I will give another vote for pinesol. Use VERY hot water and pinesol. I was very surprised on how well it worked.

E 85 works on old varnish and it is cheap.

Jim

The last pail of the good stuff I opened up was not usable it would put a coating on the carb that was hard as ell to get off it was like tar...

I guess it has a shelf life that's why I never open the other can... I had a new 5 gal can eat thru the can in my old shop it took years before the smell went away the stain is still on the floor...

Why I kept so much on hand was we would fill a 55 gal drum with about 30/40 gals to clean automatic transmissions with... We would pull the trans case out hose it down and send the mess down the city drain... I was on top of the hill 3/4 garages below me two of them dealerships all got put on notice to STOP dumping into the drain except me I was the only one not selling cars.... I STOPPED got the message... We all dumped whatever in the drain believe it are not it was the soap from washing cars that they were beaching about...

The good stuff will kill a tree no doubt...

I was tasked with rebuilding a carter 938 SD for a friend a couple years ago; it went on a 1964 CJ3B that had about 11000 miles on it and was in excellent shape.
It was full of oxide deposits and had plugged passages. I removed all the brass, float, needle valve, metering rod, all that stuff. Stripped it down to the body of the carb and soaked it in a Drano water mix. The Drano crystal stuff, not liquid. About 4 tablespoons per gallon or so, maybe a little more.
Pull it out, rinse it out, blow it out and use fine wire in all the passages. Then soak again. Then soaked in Gunk carb cleaner and blow it out. All the brass parts went in the GUNK cleaner.
I did that until I was satisfied the passages were clean enough to function properly with good air flow through the passages. It took 3 or 4 days. It was really bad. I reassembled using a metering rod I got out of a junker carb off ebay.

It starts and runs flawlessly as long as that metering rod will last. There are no more, and the last carter specialty lathe that made them was sold to a specialty carb shop in Californy, last I heard.

If you do this keep an eye on it. It will foam and get nasty from removing deposits and you don't want to dissolve your carb.

I hope this helps. Let us know how it works out.