What to look for when buying a Oliver diesel tractor

I am gonig to look at a 1966 Oliver 1850 diesel tractor. The owner died and his estate is selling the tractor and the person I talked with knows nothing about it other then the tractor has around 5000 hours, and has the over and under shift, starts easy , and has some light surface rust from sitting outside at times.

I know the basic things to look for when buying a gas tractor , like looking for water in the oil, or blue smoke in the exhaust, or knocking sounds in engine, or clutch an gear problems, etc. But since I have never owned an Oliver diesel before, or for that matter, any diesel tractor before, I really don't know what I should be looking for on this type of tractor that could be a major problem later on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

You look for the same things you look for in a gas tractor.Starting good is a good sign of engine condition.Dont be scared of a diesel.

Like Delta Red,I don't know what to tell you. Those are a dry sleeve engine,so if there should happen to be water in the oil,it could be as simple as an oil cooler or as bad as a cracked head or bad head gasket. Having two of those Perkins,I can tell you for certain that it'll smoke when it's cold. One of mine starts like a dream when it's cold,the other one is best plugged in. Both are in good shape,it just seems to be a crap shoot with those engines. The original in my 1850 started hard too when it was cold,so I wouldn't let cold starting be a factor.

I don't know what else to say.

How do you know if there are problems with the injection pump, since I think this is one of the most expensive things to replace or repair.?

You don't.If it starts and runs good,dont worry.It's all good.If it misses and slobbers,smokes excessively,then other problems are there. However,some engines just blow white smoke like freight train when cold,till the warn up.Normal. IH D282 in a 560,706,656 is a prime example of that.Injectors,valve problems,pump issues,a multitude of problems could exist. The same as with a gas engine.Don't worry,diesels are more reliable and longer lifed than a gas engine.1850 is a fine tractor,I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to buy one.

If you really have no idea of what your looking at other then a green tractor that haws four tires and wheels and has someplace around 5000 hrs , your best bet is find and OLD guy that has worked on them and take him with you and pay the man for his knowledge and time . Even if it cost ya 500 bucks . While you and the seller chit chat let him look it over at his own pace with out interference from the seller . I have gone with people to look over one for them . If i am doing the looking that is what i am there for and i hat when the owner keeps tryen to distract you as he is trying to hide something and wants you to learn about AFTER your the new owner and only then find out that first off ya paid to much to start and it is going to cost you the price once again to get you prize useable . Even i got snoockered on and oliver , the tuition payment on that learning experience was only 950 dollars and the trucking , had i FIXED the tractor i would have had the 3950 i gave for it plus close to that amount just in parts with no labor and the trucking and hauling it off to a sale and placing it in the DEAD row and taking what a salvage buyer gave i only lost 1300 , tough pill to sallow . But the guy that bought it for junk got goofy and decided to FIX it . I knew After i bought it that first off the battrys and starter were junk even though they said the batterys were NEW . I never drove the tractor myself ( first mistake ) Then once i got it home is when we find STUFF wrong . Found the trans mission and rear end were JUNK . So off to the sale it went . Guy that bought it put a whole transmission and rear end on it only to find out the engine was JUNK , i did not get that far . But hey it did have nice paint and sheet metal and good tires .

I was looking on Indy's craigslist. My heart stopped when I found a gas oliver with a factory cab. Then I went to tractor data and found out it has a weight problem, around 9000# is too heavy for a lawn mower.
oliver 1850

Depends on how big the lawnmower is I guess.

Start it ,drive it and never invest more than you can afford to loose ! They all need work done to them once you get them home too.

Depends on how deep I want ruts in lawn too.

I think 9000# is without ballast. I would need a bigger truck to haul 9000# plus a 3000#+ implement trailer. Trailer is rated at 14k. 12k+ would be a white knuckle experience pulling it with a 1500 GMC work truck that weighs in around 5500#.

Any weight watcher's machine to reduce its weight?

I will tell you something about those. The injector pump tends to leak a little more than on some other tractors. Don't pay it any mind. Dieseltech and Al Baker (pumpman) say it's some diaphragm that isn't really necessary in the first place. The one on my 1850 leaks until it warms up. The one on the 2-105 needs to be repaired to tell you the truth. That one leaks all the time and makes kind of a mess of things. Just because they leak doesn't mean that imminent repairs are needed though.

start it and drive around. let it run and check the pto shaft if it runs and wont shut off the the pto clutch pack needs to be repaired.

Need is kind of a broad word. I've had mine since the mid 90s and it's always run on without a load on it. They're like the Super55. It's hard to ever find one of either that shuts off like it should.

put it on a diet! remove cast wheels and possibly other weight. Make sure no fluid In either front or rear tires. Pullers may be able to help on other weight problems. Turf tires or nearly wornout rear tires would leave less track. Naturally if it has very good lugs on rear tires I would be happy to trade you for slicker rears. LOL You would do it for me-- right!!

(quoted from post at 07:59:22 12/13/18) You look for the same things you look for in a gas tractor.Starting good is a good sign of engine condition.Dont be scared of a diesel.

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tarting good is not a reliable way of telling a engine is good.
My 1855 with the 310 diesel started and ran good. Turned out the the main and rod bearings were worn out and the crank needs grinding. Toil pressure read 40 psi hot idle .The injectors where also pretty bad yet this engine fired up in 2 revolutions even after sitting 6 months.

Bill,
You figure out how I can cut weight in half. I'll consider. Think replacing air with helium will help?

That's what dual wheels are for(LOL)

The1850 was a generally good tractor. Reliable and durable

The 1855 had issues with the lower engine 2 part bearings. If replaced with the updated ones it was good

Smoking. Had a IH 966 that would sit their for 5 minutes when started on the cold and belch out white smoke. At the 5 minute mark it cleared up and ran great. Did this from the first winter we owned it. ?- it was bran new from the factory. Really good tractor.

I bought a 1800 several years ago, ran good but needed overhauled. I couldn't find anyone that would touch it. All the old Oliver mechanics were long gone. I liked the tractor. They free wheel in low side on the hydra power.

I can't add much more than all said below but ..IMO the 1850 , being the only year it came with the Perkins , long stroke 354 engine, is the one I'd be tempted to buy. IMO, better than the Wakashaw 310 "revver" any day. Lot better lugging power out of a 5" stroke engine. Gotta remember, these were in direct competition with the JD 4020 which had 404 cubes. Tell me what you have to do to make same HP as a 404 out of a 310 ? Yea, exactly. And the 354 has even longer stroke than the 404 JD too. I always loved the new gen Olivers as far as looks / styling but not so much their engine theory. If I were to buy a '60,s new gen oliver, it would be the 1850 - perkins. Take a perkins man with ya.

Not familiar with the injector return lines on the 1850, but I know they're a pain on the 1650/1750 diesel to keep from leaking if the rubber connectors are old (they crack). In general don't be surprised if you see some fuel leaks.

My suggestion is to insist that it be stone cold when you get there so that you can evaluate engine/fuel system condition.

How much is it ? If you can post that you may get some no way ever ! or go get it now whether it runs or not ! replies to help with a decision.