18 year old looking for a tractor

JohnV2000

Member
Hello everyone,

I?m a senior in high school and I want to buy an old farm tractor to work on and possibly restore. I?m going to college next year but I?ll be commuting from home so I?ll have time (and the space) to work on my tractor.

My family owns just under 2 acres of property about 30 minutes north of Pittsburgh. I don?t really have that much practical usage for a tractor - besides hauling wood, mulch, and general ?tractor stuff? - but I?ve absolutely LOVED old farm tractors since I was a toddler. I know it?s not the most practical, but it?s always been my dream to own an old farm tractor.

I don?t have any experience with old tractors or engines, but I?m a pretty quick learner so I think I might be able to figure out how to rebuild an engine or restore parts of the tractor.

I have a few questions for you experienced people. First of all, are there any pitfalls I might be missing in the tractor buying process? As far as I can see, I need to look for a tractor around $800 to $1000, preferably running but at the least turning over. Then, I need to rent a trailer and tow it home with an F150. I anticipate a little maintanance costs, but I hope once I have it tuned up and fixed up I should be good to go.

Do you think it?s reasonable to expect to buy an old tractor (like a Ford 8N or Farmall H) for around $800 if it?s running but not in great shape? I?m thinking about writing some letters and putting them at some houses where I see an old tractor and just seeing if they might be willing to sell. I would consider buying a non-running tractor, but I?d hope to pay maybe $600 for a non running tractor. How unrealistic am I?

Thank you very much,

John
 
Paid 2000$ for a John Deere 3020 diesel powershift . It will probably cost 3 times what you think it should to restore a tractor 🚜
 
A new generation JD is quite an investment for first timer.

A running farmall H can be had for a few hundred, parts are available and relatively cheap.
 
Good for you. I'd suggest starting simple with a gas engine and something parts are available for. '50's era Ford, Ferguson, MF are 3 choices and could be easily towed by a F150. Smaller gas IH's too. It is a very rewarding pastime.
 
JohnV ..... if your mechanical skills are half as good as your writing skills and 1/4 as good as your attitude, I would say you've got a big head start on most young guys in a similar situation as you. One way or the other, you're going to achieve what you're setting out to do from what I see and hear so far.
 
Hello Johnv2000, I am always happy to see teenagers interested in old tractors. During my high school years, I had a dream also. My dream was to get my grandfathers tractor (Case model C) from a friend of my fathers. I was able to get it, get it running for the first time in about 30-40 years.
I grew up and live on a farm which is how I got my love for (old)tractors. I grew up with Allis Chalmers tractors. My first tractor was an allis chalmers model b. I restored an allis chalmers model c a few years ago. As far as price goes. OUCH. I got the tractor non running and stuffed in the woods. New tires $1,000 new paint $600 ish, engine rebuild $2,000. As those old credit card commercials went..... a lifetime of stories going forward...... PRICELESS. Guess my point here is, each tractor has a story, just like we all do, and the stories get better and better with family and friends and working on the tractor and enjoying it are just awsome! Now with my rambling to the side, I will try my best to answer some of your questions.


By searching the letgo app, craigslist, this site and by driving around as you had said, you can find just the tractor that you are looking for. A farmall cub is fairly small, easy to work on and might be a consideration. Also a ford 8n or allis chalmers b, or c, or many many others to choose from. Tires is the biggest factor in price. Tires and a running engine. If those two are at a loss, the price of the tractor is usually around scrap price. Good luck to you in your search!
 
Find a IH 300 or 340 or 350. They have the capacity to serve well, and parts are really easy to find. These have Live Hydraulics, and Live PTO. Good to have for small acres and safety. Opiver 55, S55, 550 are also fine and dandy. Massy F. 135 165 fit the finders keepers idea as well. Jim
 
Thank you everyone for your help! I knew the tractor community was friendly but this is awesome!

That Farmall H linked to on Craigslist looks very promising. I like that it is running and it seems like a good price. Like I said, I would not be totally object to buying a non running tractor.

One main question I have is, how can I tell if a non running tractor can be fixed easily? Also, is there anything to look for, or to listen for, in a running tractor to know if it is a solid runner?

Thanks again!

John
 
I like John Deere myself because that is what I grew up on and still have them today. Regardless of the brand I'm sure you'll figure things out after you find one. My daughter and her husband live by Evans City . Good luck with your purchase.
 
That John Deere on Craigslist looks nice, but I am really looking for an older tractor, preferably something early 1950s or before.

So far I think I like the Ford N series the best, but I would also purchase an Allis Chalmers, Massey Ferguson, Farmall, etc. John Deere or Oliver tractors are some of my favorites but they seem much more expensive. I think I would have the best chance of finding a Ford or Allis Chalmers for $800 to $1000.
 
You should be able to get an 8N in running condition for $800 to $1000. Keep in mind that these tractors are pushing or over 70 years old. Most will have enough issues that will teach you about tractors. Go find on and have fun with it. I did.
 
Hey John,

Sounds like you have the heart. Do you have any tractor-minded, or at least mechanically minded, friends or family that can help you out with this?

The H and the lil' Fords are good machines, as is a John Deere B. Both can be had really cheap and have great support for parts. they're small, so easily stored and most componants can be worked on by a person working alone. They made hundreds of thousands of each and lots of parts are easily sourced aftermarket. Some models mentioned earlier can be problematic for finding parts. That's why I ask if you know anyone that could guide you.

If you've never worked on one, you should probably stick with runners. A non-runner potentially has many unseen problems. Heck, a runner can be a huge money pit. Get the owners manual, service manual, and parts manual and read them. Don't spend a lot of money on stuff until you're sure it's the one you want, and don't plan on making money if you decide to sell it. These old tractors tend to become money pits fast, especially if you decide that a cosmetic restoration is something you want to tackle. Lots and lots of guys have $5,000, 10,000, 20,000 in a tractor that would sell for $2500 if they tried to sell them.

Come back here and ask a hundred questions, post pictures, you'll get all the support you can handle....and some you can't.

Good luck
 
One thing to remember. Every guru on this site, every master mechanic in the shop, every old-timer that seems to know everything, the guy who can close his eyes and listen to a tractor run and tell you what needs to be adjusted - they all started out knowing nothing. They learned everything they know over time as they asked questions, studied, experimented, and got their hands dirty working on their projects. That is the fun of working on these old machines - everything you learn as you work on/play with your project. Go for it and have fun.
 
How can you tell if a non runner can be fixed? Well... Let me say This: everything can be fixed. Just depends on how much a person wants to
spend. I mean, parts can always be found, made ect... But, it all boils down to time and money. As a mechanic myself, that is a question that
is really tough because of the variables. Main one is moisture. Big question, When did it last run, why did someone not get it going again...
and so on. I am 29 years old, and I try and break things down as simple as I can. You have the engine, transmission, and all the little
things (thAT make the 2 big components) engine and transmission go. Basically try and find a running tractor that you can afford and start
from there. Or if you find a non runner, shedded or under cover. make sure it turns over by fan belt ro put in high gear and rock back and
forth.
 
Whatever you buy, go to the brand specific board and ask about safety. If you are going to use a tractor, even casually, you should learn about the ways things can go wrong. They are quite safe if you take the time to learn about them.
 
John,
Take a look at Meadville PA Craigslist under farm and garden. There is a decent looking Farmall H for $800. It looks like its near Erie. You also try Burgh Implement in Zelinople. They have lots of tractors in various conditions. Good luck on you quest...
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 21:18:07 12/03/18) You should be able to get an 8N in running condition for $800 to $1000. Keep in mind that these tractors are pushing or over 70 years old. Most will have enough issues that will teach you about tractors. Go find on and have fun with it. I did.

Those are encouraging words, thank you! I am eager to learn.
 
(quoted from post at 21:37:12 12/03/18) John,
Take a look at Meadville PA Craigslist under farm and garden. There is a decent looking Farmall H for $800. It looks like its near Erie. You also try Burgh Implement in Zelinople. They have lots of tractors in various conditions. Good luck on you quest...
Jim

I’ve read about Burgh Implement. I wonder if I could get a good deal there or I’d be better off going with a private party (not a dealer).
 
Hauled these home last week. Allis B cost me about $100. It's been sitting out for a year and won't turn over. It did last Christmas. The Oliver 77 was $600. It turns over just needs a bit of tinkering and it will be running. Paint on the Oliver is brushed on.... uggggggggggghgh. My 13 year old son has a '39 mini mo R and my 16 year old son has a '50 farmall cub. My wife and I have Fords. Go get you a tractor or 2!!
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The cub cost $600. Running. The MM cost $800, it took a couple hours to get it running. The fords were about$1500 each , running. And we work the Fords!
 

Those are beautiful tractors! Such a testament to American manufacturing that those machines were built 70 years ago and still work great!
 
(quoted from post at 22:04:40 12/03/18) Just a word of advise. If you can take someone along who knows something about tractors.

Unfortunately I do not know anyone knowledgeable about tractors.

My plan will be to check out the tractor, take some pictures, then post all relevant information on this forum and try to gather everyone’s opinion and expertise. I really love tractors so I want to do what I can to make sure I fulfill my dream.
 
Be aware that tires are expensive and tires are half the value or more of most older tractors.

I'm sure I will be in the minority here, but I will caution an 18 year old to first concentrate on learning skills you can build into a carrier that you can enjoy to support yourself and a family. Once you are established, then you will have plenty of money, time, and space to pursue whatever hobbies you heart desires.

For a two acre property, roughly 310 feet square, I would look for an older running lawn and garden tractor. Look for one with a usable mower deck and if you are in snow country, with a snow blower or snow blade. A lawn and garden tractor will be very useful on that size property, parts will be less expensive than a larger farm tractor, although the technology is very similar, just scaled down in size and in cost.

Also look for a similar parts tractor or a free lawn mower that you can disassemble and maybe re-assemble and get running again. Many push mowers are junked that only need a new flywheel key to get them running again (less then a $1 part and an hour of labor to repair).

Have fun!!!!
 

Thank you for the advice! I definitely agree that a well-paying career is first and foremost. I work hard in school, just got accepted to Penn State, and I’m planning on an engineering degree. Tractors will always be something I enjoy, and I would love to start the hobby young.

I realize a lawn tractor might be better suited for my property, but I’m really not interested in buying a tractor to use it all the time. I want it mainly just because I’d love to work on it, drive it around my property, and just enjoy being a tractor owner. To me, just owning an old farm tractor would be enjoyable. I find that lawn tractors do not give me the same appeal as a classic tractor like an 8N or Allis Chalmers WD.
 
I believe I would be checking out that Super C that Larry posted about. It would be a little smaller than a H and would be handy with that hitch.
 
Welcome John!

A lot of good advise so far, lots of experience here keeping the old iron running!

Several things to consider...

Find something that will suit your needs for the long haul. Some day you will have your own place, possibly with some acreage, so plan around something with some room to expand it's usefulness.

Some features you will wish you had, power steering, and live PTO/hydraulics.

Power steering is real handy, and practically a must with a loader, should you ever need one.

Live PTO/hydraulics comes with a 2 stage clutch. Without this feature, the PTO, 3 point or any other hydraulics will only work when the clutch is engaged or the tractor is moving.

When you find a prospect, do some research on what features it has. A model number and some online research will give the answers. Tractordata.com is a good source.

Buying a non-runner has one single advantage, price! You don't want to pay over scrap value, $100-$150. Tires are also a major expense and consideration. Good tires are sometimes a deal maker. So even if it's a non runner, if it has good tires it will be worth considering.

Estate sales are a good place to find treasures, just don't get caught up in a bidding war. Finding something already in good shape can have major advantages. Even though you are looking for a project, finding something already in reasonably good condition has it's advantage. Spending 3 to 4 times what the finished product is worth is just part of the hobby. Letting someone else spend it for you is a real plus! Don't be disappointed, there will always be something to do on it after you get it home.

Another advantage to buying a running tractor, it gives you a chance to drive it around, put it through all the motions, find all the problems so you can have a game plan. Nothing more disappointing than splitting it twice because there was some unforeseen problem that could have been fixed while you were in there the first time.

Some deal killers to look for, broken castings, like freeze cracked blocks or transmission/differential cases, castings that have been broken and brazed/welded,(pay close attention to the front axle assy attachment to the engine) and missing components.

Have fun, choose carefully, do your homework! Whatever you end up with, the first purchase you will want to make, a shop manual! It will more than pay for itself in mistakes not made!
 
I will ad my two cents: Tractor prices vary widely. Fords, JD and IH seem overpriced in my area. I needed a tractor to work my big garden (1 acre?) and I wanted the cheapest thing I could buy with some sort of lift on it. I have to back down the rows and work in close corners so turning around with a pull implement doesn't work for me. I had an Allis CA which was quite the tractor in its day. It still probably has the most power for its size, but the snap couple system is it's own thing and those snap couple implements go high. I then bought a VAC case tractor. It is very lo tech compared to the Allis, but it is a better tractor for me and pretty easy to work on. They made lots of them (150000) and the later ones have the eagle hitch which works with most 3pt implements. In my area, these are the absolutely low dollar tractors for anything with a lift. Not super powerful, but enough for small farms. The Case guys on the Case page are experts, friendly and helpful. If you think you might like to do tractor rides with your tractor, the later ones with 34" wheels are the best. They are too fast for close in work though and the 28" wheels make a slower more useful tractor. The penalties of only having 4 gears. Never had a VAC till last year and I love it and love working on it. A lot simpler than the Allis.
 
Once he has a family,house payment etc etc he won't have money for anything else for awhile.I'd say get interested in tractors,go to school and hold off on the other stuff for a good long while.Kids are smarter now days they aren't jumping into the family thing nearly as quick as young people did years ago.
 
Life is short, doing what you love is what can make it great to be living.I know so many people that have lived their life as others expected them to live it and were miserable.
Trust me its a lot more fun being a 'loose cannon' (LOL)
 
I have bought 2 8n tractors for under 800 non running. got them both running and sold them. gained a lot of experience and basically got my money back for them. from my experience I would say do not buy an 8n tractor. would buy a international/farm all wide front 300-340-404 first then a ford 660 and up with a 5 speed. preferably with a working power steering. do your home work on the cost of tires, tune up kits, new carburetors, etc. you need to think about how much cost you think you will have in it and can you get your money back out of it. buying a non running engine can be awful costly. 3pt with live power is a must. also if you find a tractor make a deal with the seller to deliver it to your house. most likely they already have a trailer and if not to far away probably would just deliver for you. never hurts to ask. also ask if they have any manuals as there a must to have. remember there are a lot of good folks out there that will be honest in there description but there is also some that would say they had a pigeon. don't be afraid to walk away because once you buy it its yours. what ever you buy there will always be some people on here that will help you. a lot of good folks on here. good luck on your purchase. norm
 
John, I think with your original tractor preferences and all the good advice here, you should have your target tractor well in to focus. Keep up with Craigslist as suggested (although there is a lot of junk there, beware), pick up a weekly copy (or subscribe) of Farm & Dairy newspaper out of Salem OH. I think there were 2 8N fords in there last week. On New Years eve Kiko Auctioneers will be having their annual consignment auction near Winona, OH, check website, they will probably be selling a couple tractors that you are targeting. Although a bit a of a drive for you, Countryside Equipment north of Carrollton OH has a sale second Saturday of every other month.
 
I agree. Sometimes when you are buying an old tractor you are paying for rear tires and scrap iron. Rear tires are a big deal on a $1000 or less tractor as they are over half the price of the tractor. On the other hand, I was always worried about tires when I looked at tractors. Last year I was at a tractor pull and there was a G John Deere pulling on tires I would have been afraid to own. Not so afraid anymore.
 
welcome to the site and to old tractor world. Like stated above it is way cool when a young person shows interest in old tractors/ farm equipment. At the risk of sounding biased I don't know if there is a cheaper tractor to restore than a N series ford. Parts are readily available as well as implements. Unfortunately initial cost may be higher. Other than that maybe a A or B John Deere.
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:56 12/03/18)

One main question I have is, how can I tell if a non running tractor can be fixed easily? Also, is there anything to look for, or to listen for, in a running tractor to know if it is a solid runner?

Thanks again!

John

Unfortunately, there's no short answer to that question. It comes with experience and even then it's less "know" and more "think", a kind of educated guess based on knowledge and experience. You have to start somewhere.

I know there's a lot of appeal in bringing back an old tractor from the dead. But for your first tractor thing about this. Even if it's running, a tractor in your budget is going to still need a lot of work. You won't miss out on any fun just because it runs, there's ALWAYS something to do.

For example, just getting the ignition switch on my Deere put back to the original switch took me 2 weeks of tinkering.

Get a tractor where all the gears work and the motor runs. From there you'll still have plenty of fun without biting off more than you can chew.

Grouse
 
Something that nobody has mentioned is where are you going to be able to put it? You are not going to be wanting to leave it outsise all the time. Andyou probably do not have anything more than a car garage to keep it in and most only have a 7' high door with perhaps a foot of clearanceinside above height of door. All the others you are talking about except the Ford and possibly a Ferguson in the TO-20, TO-30 or TO-35 models are probably going to be TOO tall to get in a garage door like that. I know a Johb Deere B or Farmall H are going to be to tall to go in a garage like that and some a little lower like the AC with vertical exaust bight clear the door but then you are still throwing that exaust against the ceiling with a good chance of it malikg a fire in garage. Stick with something like that Ford you are talking about as you can put one safly in to a standard car garage for working on it or just storing it, The tall ones that you mentioned like the JD or even the Farmall H you might be stuck leaving it outside and working on it outside because too tall to get in garage and if storage width could be a problem other than the Ford or Ferguson an AC B is the only one that will narrow down enough possibly for that and exaust would still be too close to celing and you should get something with a standard cat 1 3 point hitch if you would ever want to do a bit of work with it like mowing your lawn and that Ford would easy handle a finnish mower that the other tractors you cannot mount one on without problems. And for what you are wanting forget about a live pto as it will do you no good and power steering also the Fords stear easy enough you no not need the hastel of power steering. And they will do very good on a tractor drive. Just make a small cary platform for on the 3 point hitch in case you would ever want to take somebody with you on that tractor drive as you could put a couple of lawn chairs on that plus a cooler with drinks and possibly lunch as a lot of tractor drives you have to take your own drinks and eats. You could also cary an extra can of gas or a tow chain in case you would happen to need it for yourself or somebody else. And setting low like The ford and the wide front it is a lot safer to operate tractor for a newbe like yourself than a tall narrow front tractor. You don't need or should want power steering, live pto or things like that to make it harder to start and learn on. Easiest to work on is the Ford everything else more complicated And keep in mind where or how you are going to store it. Even the small Case mentioned probably not going in your garage
 

John, you can find many tractors in your price range looking at the old Farmalls, JDs Cases and Allises with no three point hitch. The utility tractor with three point will usually go for a lot more simply because they are still useful. Delete the expression "turn over" from your vocabulary because it gets in the way of communicating with people. To most people it means that the motor cranks or is not stuck, but many people use it to mean to fire and start to run.
 
JohnV: Whatever tractor you choose make sure it's running or not stuck. It will save you a lot of headaches down the road. My nomination as to flavor would be a Farmall H or M, ton's of parts out there and affordable. This is comming from a Massey guy
 
I read through everyones posts, great information and I can tell I’m learning a lot already.

I really liked the point that “Traditional Farmer” made: if you live your life the way people expect, you may be miserable. That is the way I am trying to look at my future, I want to get an education, get a good job, but then do what I truly want to do instead of just following the same path that millions of others have followed. That might be part of the reason I want a tractor when I am 18, even though many people tell me it is not practical and it is not something an 18 year old should buy, it is something that I personally want to buy and I think that is reason enough.

I will keep an eye open on Craigslist and for auctions. I am a cyclist and I bike 100-200 miles per week, and I am always biking past houses with old tractors. I will just start making some inquires on the tractors that look promosing.
 
don't just buy any tractor buy what you like .because you might be stuck with it for a long time .old tractors are a hard sale unless you don't care about losing money . don't buy because someone else tells you what brand they like, buy for yourself
 
I have a late model JD B and I trimmed around 1 1/2" off muffler and it goes in a "normal" 7foot garage door. Also put the 720 diesel in there too. Pull out 4 bolts and pull the muffler off.
 
Just to be clear about what my intentions are, I do not plan on ever selling the tractor I am going to buy. I hope to eventually own a house with a good bit of property where I can own many tractors, both for use and for fun. This first tractor will certainly be for fun and not for work. The main reason I want the tractor is just to have the pleasure of owning one, almost like the satisfaction a numismatist has with coin collecting.

I do not really care if the tractor has a 3 point hitch or live PTO. All I really want is a classic tractor that I can work on and enjoy riding around my property for fun.

Thanks!

John
 
Something like a farmall A or C or AC B or C or Case VAC work out good for some people to put belly mowers under them. You may be able to get good entry level pricing and still have something you could use in the future to mow lawn and push snow with ?
 
People will spend a lot more than what an old tractor will cost on a weekend trip and have nothing to show for it on Monday morning.Its all what you want and don't feel like
you have to 'justify' it.
 
im kind of thinking something like an allis chalmers b or a farmall cub. both are small light weight and easy to transport on a carhauler type trailer. simple design, easy to work on, and parts are readily available and not expensive. both can run a belly mower and can do drawbar work, ie pulling trailers, a small plow or disk ect.
 
Even though this site beats them up pretty good, for what you want, a 8n Ford will be handier than any Farmall. I would not buy non running for a first tractor. Condition of the tires is almost as important as the tractor. I have had 2 8ns in the last 35 years and wish I never sold the first. The one in the picture is a $1,200 tractor and I payed $150 for the rear tires. I've had it for 15 years, and other than 1 battery, only oil changes. It uses oil (about a quart every 6 hrs.) but never fails to start and cuts 1 1/2 acres a week with a 6' mower.
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(quoted from post at 10:02:08 12/04/18) My email's open email me a phone # I might have what you're looking for. Keith

Keith,

I want to contact you but I can't figure out how to email you through this website.

John
 
They will not fit in same area the Ford will and I grew up with a Farmal H and an N Ford. Later added a JD A then a B then a second B and later an A
 
Both good and a size he could handle, just make sure the AC has foot brakes, not the hand brake that could have him in a wreck. The downside to them is if he would find a tractor drive he wanted to participate in (even a parade) they do not have a fast enough high gear to keep up. Not sure on the AC what top speed is. But I have been a parade where every other tractor was passing the Cub because it was not fast enough to keep up. Same with the F12 Farmall.
 
And if he would have to buy tires the ones for the Ford would be on average half the price for a Farmall, Deere or MH Or Oliver unless it would be a S55.
 
Welcome to the world of tractors! It's fun owning one--I like it. You mentioned pitfalls, and this may go beyond your original question, but you'll probably want to actually USE the tractor when you get it in shape. If you're on flat terrain, just about anything will do. Sounds like north of Pittsburgh means hills. I'd try to whittle the search down to something with a low center of gravity if your patch of land is hilly. The tip-over factor gets very scary the higher you sit on a tractor trying to navigate hills.
 
The guys that jumped onto the Cub band wagon years ago around here were highly disappointed when trying to run a belly mower. Not enough power for the grass in Ohio ! lol. Most did sell and get the model A which they liked.
 
I went for a bike ride today to sightsee some of the old tractors around my area. I saw an Allis Chalmers that looked in good condition, and an old Ford that looked nice.

How do I send an email to another forum member? Someone on the previous page of this thread said he might have a tractor I would like and he told me to email him, but I’m not sure how.
 
On his post it says send e mail (up in corner)

Press where it says send e mail,,,then follow the instructions,,,let us know if you find how to do
it,,if not we will keep trying to explain further....Best of luck!!!
 
I don't know if you are using Modern or classic. All I use is classic and if you look down below his post to lower right corner it will say send email, just click on that and a email screen will come up and just put in what you want to say filling out required information and he will then get the email on YT system so he can then get back with you. Nobody except the one it is to go to can get your information untill you give it to him in the email. It is easy you just might noy be lookiong quite far enough down if on classic, modern I don't know. I have used it to talk with him in the past.
 
Love to see younger people getting involved in these old tractors my advice for you would def be a loose motor with compression and good tires esp rear tires. You can get into a lot of money buying tires (farmall H all 4 cost me $1200) motor work can get expensive really quick also. Most important take your time look around until you find the one you want and enjoy your time restoring it. Oh one more thing just a warning this is a very addictive hobby I started with an old AC “C” 4 years ago and am working on my 4th one. Occasionally I think I might need some counseling. Have fun and welcome to the forum a lot of good info here
 
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/grd/d/ford-8n/6757950346.html

$600 Ford 8N. Call and get the specifics. rear tire looks ok, check both. If it's something you want to pursue, take a can of carb cleaner from Walmart, and a battery over, and stop at the local Auto Zone, borrow a compression tester.

Hook up the battery(pay attention to the positive ground if it's original), Loosen the black rubber boot hose to the carb, have the spritz can of carb cleaner ready when you crank the engine, spray the carb cleaner into the intake where the boot was. Hope it will fire.

If it runs briefly on the carb cleaner, then take off the ignition wires, remove the spark plugs, and use the compression tester on each cylinder with the hand throttle all the way open. Should get about 70-80Lbs on EACH cylinder. If this check out, pay the man, and take it home.

There may be 15-30 different things you'll need to fix or upgrade. Clean the fuel tank, and petcock. Clean and adjust the carb. Set/replace the points. Drain gear lube and replace. Adjust or rebuild the hyd unit. Lots of learning to go on, and this gets you started at the low end. Good luck. Keep us informed.
 
I figured out how to send the email, thanks! I think I was using modern view so I switched to classic view and I saw the “send email” button.
 
That tip over factor is one reason I said stay with a Ford as even on flat ground someone that is not used to things migh just try to make a too sharp turn at max speed and flip tractor. After you are familuar with tractors you can more judge speed and turning that you can do and hills would greatly amplyfy things.
 

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