Best new chainsaw?

modirt

Member
Who currently makes the best chainsaw for farm and ranch use?

For years, I would have said Stihl. Former Stihl dealer told me that is not the case today. He currently sells Makita.....so I take that with a grain of salt.

I would suspect any dealer would favor what he sells.
 
Chevy ford or dodge?
They are all or will be all computer controlled fuel injected and shut down periodically for smog checks anyway.
 
Just lubricate with elbow grease.
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My Husky has never failed to start on three pulls. Every time. My friend pulled his brand new Stihl saw about a hundred times and it did not start.
 
I suspect it depends on how often you use it and how user friendly the saw use. I have seen one, won't mention the name, that was basically
disassemble 1/2 the saw to change the blade. You probably also don't need the biggest saw you can buy. Unless you like carrying around all
that weight.
 
I would say Jonsered, but it depends if you have a dealer nearby. I am not dependent on dealers, I do my
own service and can buy parts online, but we do have a good dealer nearby.
 
There are a number of good chainsaws made today. You want to find a dealer that services and has parts for
the brand he sells. In our area Stihl, Husky and Echo are the major brands but the local Stihl dealers have
more models of saws in stock and have a better supply of parts.
 
I have had solid experience with Jonsered from a Product rep in AZ (Flagstaff) they were solid. I am a Stihl owner and love its
reliability. I have watched massive cleanup here in St. Cloud when we had a blowdown or 1000 trees in 2013 many crews were using
Dolomar Echo, and Stehl. I think the saws made and sold with their own brand on the saw are about equally good. Rebranded saws
not much to begin with.
Dealer support, personal maintenance habits, and skill using the saw are more important. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 08:29:48 12/02/18) The one with good local dealer, parts, and repair support.

Which oil will you use?

Well, that is why I am asking. Took my dad's old Stihl 032 to the local Stihl dealer (a big one) and they tell me the parts I need are no longer available and wants to sell me a new one. Parts are an oil reservoir, fuel tank, sprocket, air filter, etc. Things I would think would be easy enough to find if you were trying to fix it. Saw might be 20 years old, but has seen light use and still has a good engine.

Stihl 2 cycle oil and bar oil is what I have used in the past.
 
Husqvarna and Stihl are still good. It's
the budget line you want to avoid and every
manufacturer now a days has one.
 
Your issue is not uncommon for any product. Those Chassis components are not kept in stock just a few years after the model is
changed. I own an 032, and if I broke those parts I would search beyond the dealer to get them. I googled Stihl 032 saw for
parts. thousands Jim
 
I rarely use chainsaw. I have difficulty
starting any 2 cycle.
My best chainsaw is a cheap 4 hp
craftsman electric. Only one cord to
pull on, the power cord.
I also have a generator on wheels. I
pull generator with Kawasaki mule and go
anywhere.

I never have to worry about fuel issues
and adjusting carb.
 
I have an o32 stihl which was my dads bought in 1973. I have it running now but i know the coils do go out of them and they dont make them anymore. Mine still runs.
 
I also own an 032 and I would not trade it for new. Do all you can to find parts. Mine was bought at an auction in the very early 1990's from a fella who cut trees for a living and retired. Had a lot of wear when I got it. Neighbor adjusted it for me and it has never failed in all the years since. I bought a farm boss of the same age a few years back and the Stihl dealer sent me packing when I asked them to do a few repairs. Most dealerships will not be bothered with looking for third party suppliers for parts. Other issue is that most of their service guys can't fix anything that isn't plug and play. Once the gray head retires you are out of luck. It is a sadness.
 
Tell you what you might do, go to your local electrical department shop, ask the tree trimmer crew what they like.
 
have 3 saws 2 stihl 1 efco The stihls are 034 and 028wb. The 028 has cut a LOT of
wood the 034 I got for free prior owner locked it up when he ran straight gas in it. I
put new 036 jug and piston in it runs good but efco 62cc will outcut it. My local
dealer is Amish guy who is a Efco and Johnsonrude dealer. He is willing to work on my
Stihls when needed so that is why I own the Efco. Next saw will be Efco as long as
this dealer is around. FIND A GOOD DEALER AND SUPPORT HIM
 
I agree, a good dealer is important as for oil I started using just plain vegetable oil in all four of my saws a couple years ago. Have been on a couple forestry forums and a long time member of the Certified Tree Farm System and saw this recommendation a few years ago. I thought "you can't do that" well yes you can. Try it. Your saws will never be cleaner, your wallet will thank you, your chain will last longer and your closes will smell better (not smell) of skanky oil.

As for best saw in my shop with two stihl, one husky, and one john deere (efco) I pick the 562XP husky. Wow what a saw.






cvphoto4540.jpg
 
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Everyone laughs at my old McCulloch 610 that I bought new in about 1979. Does everything that I need it to do. Ebay is a gold mine of parts to keep old stuff running.
 
George, you would really like a Stihl easy start saw or trimmer. Just pull the cord out slow and steady and a spring spins the motor over once the cord has reached it's limit.
cvphoto4541.jpg

It took me a while to learn NOT to yank on the pull cord like on other saws, but once I learned, I love it.
This saw also has a primer button for cold starts and fuel run-outs. After first start of the day it starts first pull all day. This is my "big" saw. I also have a MS 180 that I use as a liming saw. I don't need a great big displacement saw to make a lot of firewood.
 
Hard to go wrong with stihl or husky but avoid the cheap homeowner line. Jonsered saws in the pro line are the same as huqvarnas with a different top angle on the handle. Makitas saws are made by dolmar. Makita owns dolmar and they are good saws too. I hear a lot of people like echo saws but I don't have any experience with them.
 
You need to go to eBay. Everything is
obsolete at the dealer for my 0 28 but eBay
has tons of aftermarket parts and old
factory parts.
 
If honda ever makes a 4 cycle chainsaw I'll buy it. My weedwacker is a husky with a honda engine and I can start it with no problem.

2 cycles are the closest thing to a diesel engine. They give me headaches.

I only wish I could handle diesel and 2 cycle exhaust. Then I could own a Bota and be like A KING in a climate controlled cab, listening to Willy on Sirius radio, curse control, air cushion ride, Power steering.
 
I have a husky now. Was a die hard stihl man till they sold me a lemon.
Talked to a professional tree guy , he had been in business for 45 years. Told me they never use a
stihl in summer , always husky. In winter they go back to stihl.
Said the stihl any handle the warm temps with steady use.
That explained why mine was a lemon, I quit cutting in winter as I hate the cold
I have never had an Issue with my husky yet. New bar and 2-3 chains every year and that?s it
 
Bought my first chainsaw in 1978, a stihl 031AV. Ran it over 20 years until my dealer would not fix it anymore. Acquired a stihl 031AV four or five years ago at auction in excellent near new condition, don't remember what it cost me as that did not matter. Only thing I have done to it is put on a new (black) bar for looks not because it was needed. Have the same black bar on all for saws now.


cvphoto4546.jpg
 
Husqvarna 372xp is about the best saw I have ever run. Big enough for the biggest jobs, and a professional grade. I have 2, one with 20 years of
steady use. Add gas, oil, and go cut.
 
That is why I use Stihl's moto mix in my 4 stroke KM 130R Kombi, the exhaust fumes from this fuel is hard to even notice. In the hot or humid still air days of summer, you are not choking on exhaust fumes. I've always carefully mixed my own, still do for my saw, and although this fuel is expensive, for trim work and I have a fair amount of it to do, I still don't use enough of it to be cost prohibitive. I used to balk at it, who would pay that for fuel? Realizing that I don't use much and that it is clean burning, sold me on it. The KM 130R packs lots of power too, what a beast. Heavy, but I use the harness which makes it comfortable.
 
Like others have said, the dealer is VERY important. I feel the Dolmar 510 50cc saw I bought new in 2013 or 14 is the finest piece of equipment I have EVER owned- bar none! Dolmar has been owned by Makita for about 20 years now, and Makita leaves them alone to make the finest chain saw in the world. (In Germany). Last year Makita decided to ditch the Dolmar name and brand the saws Makita. Same saw, Makitas were blue in the past, but the long time Dolmar dealers rebelled at selling a blue saw, so now the Makitas are orange and black like the Dolmars of the past. They are a shorter line than Stihl or Husqvarna. That's why I just bought a new top handle Echo arborist saw. Echo's in there with the other three in my opinion as far as quality is concerned. I have been hearing some quality and hard starting issues with some Stihls lately. And Husqvarna is owned by Electrolux who also owns Poulan. Some cheaper Huskys are rebadged Poulans, so beware. I would NOT buy a saw from a big box store, patronize a small independent guy who lives and breathes the equipment he sells. He can't afford to sell problem equipment, he wouldn't last long in business. Plus he himself or his staff have to work on whatever they sell. In a big box, they send their repairs out to sometimes back alley repair places, who knows where?
 
Dan... You are After My Own Heart, I also have a 031 AV I bought back in the Day... Only Problem I've had is with the Points being replaced... But a Chain Saw Mechanic I Know.. Put Electronic Ignition... Now that thing Cuts like a Mad Scientists.. LOL...He also Added a Longer bar from the 16 inch I think its a 20 inch?? IDK... Absolutely Great Saw!!.. Larry in N. Ga
 
sawagain.com is a great place to get part that are dealer obsolete. I get my chains for my older jonsereds. For my newer saws I
run Husqvarna. They are good saws if you take care of them.
 
Whatever you buy, spend the money on the pro line. Stay away from the homeowner saws!

I know I am in the minority, but personally I want nothing to do with any saw under 5 hp.


The suggestion of the Husky 372 is a pretty good one for a "one size does it all" saw.
 
I believe pro level saws are no longer marketed under the Jonsered name. I think they only market 5 models under the Jonsered name anymore? The good stuff is all under the Husky name now.
 
I have had an Echo saw for over 20 years. It has cut truck loads of fire wood. I put the 1st new sparkplug
in it a couple of weeks ago. It runs on E15. I wouldn't even look at another brand.
 
I have 4 610 and a 510. I buy them at
tractor shows, auctions and flea markets. I
buy them for parts, but soon have them
running.
 
For out of production parts, google ChainSawr! Yes, that is the correct spelling, no E!
HTH, Dave
PS: I have bought NLA parts for my Jonsereds 70-E from them!
 
I've read all the posts like I usually do to humor myself. LOL I bought a Stihl MS 290 " farm Boss" about 12 yrs ago. From Stihl dealer. I have cut a lot of wood with it. More than most 'homeowners" will ever. Ironically ...I've never needed the "dealer" for anything. I run chizzle chain and keep non ethanol fuel in it. Still has original clutch and bar on it ! Plenty of power and always starts right up in any temp and with the chizzle chain , will fill your pockets with chips real quick.. Just don't see needing anything else. They said a few yrs ago that they weren't making them anymore but I think they still do.You don't need a "kenworth" !! My son bought the same saw 2 yrs after me and same luck. My work buddy bought a Husky 455 Rancher ( equal saw to ours) and I wouldn't own it . It's either screaming or bogging. There's a reason Stihl only sells through servicing dealers also. They don't NEED the Home Depot , TSC , Sears etc to sell their equipment. Whatever you get , trash the "safety chain" they come with and get chizzle chain.
 
hows that choice going so far
who makes makita? china? Japan? sthl? husky? Echo?

thats good
he asks about NEW saws
am I correct in assuming the new saws time out and quit running at regular intervals
on purpose to be serviced by a licensed? facility?

New saws
electronic carbs and fuel injection now.

So assuming the question asker has every bit of mechanical ability
does your modified czizzle 12yo saw relate

sort of like chevy ford dodge question
buick toyota nissan
red blue green orange
buy it today and then start reading reviews only to realize the salesman/dealership sold you on something not preffered
It's a saw. Like your dear best friend your dog, or....wife?
there are plenty of youtube experts willing to educate
I'd imagine popular science, mechanics, and consumers report has suggestions
yes the purchase method may just matter a lot
who'd you buy your 12yo saw from and where do you go for czizzle chains now
castrol rotella delo valvaline shell texaco
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:40 12/02/18) If honda ever makes a 4 cycle chainsaw I'll buy it. My weedwacker is a husky with a honda engine and I can start it with no problem.

2 cycles are the closest thing to a diesel engine. They give me headaches.

I only wish I could handle diesel and 2 cycle exhaust. Then I could own a Bota and be like A KING in a climate controlled cab, listening to Willy on Sirius radio, curse control, air cushion ride, Power steering.

Hey George,
Is "curse" control standard on 'Botas? If so, I need to get me one! ;)


I bought a new Stihl MS250 last year and an MS311 last week. Dealer is 3 miles away in town. So far they're OK. I had been using Echos, but my CS600P has been sitting on a bench at the shop for a year and the dealer claims he can't get a carb for it. I really liked that saw, and I hope the 311 will be better.

As far as which on is best, go on arborist site dot com to ask those guys. Once you ask, duck!
 
(quoted from post at 12:50:18 12/02/18)
(quoted from post at 08:29:48 12/02/18) The one with good local dealer, parts, and repair support.

Which oil will you use?

Well, that is why I am asking. Took my dad's old Stihl 032 to the local Stihl dealer (a big one) and they tell me the parts I need are no longer available and wants to sell me a new one. Parts are an oil reservoir, fuel tank, sprocket, air filter, etc. Things I would think would be easy enough to find if you were trying to fix it. Saw might be 20 years old, but has seen light use and still has a good engine.

Stihl 2 cycle oil and bar oil is what I have used in the past.

Th 032 is more like 40 years old. Thats aprt of why they don't carry parts. If you haunt Ebay, you can find everything you need. Taking it apart and putting it back together properly is the tricky part.
 
(quoted from post at 13:41:59 12/02/18) I agree, a good dealer is important as for oil I started using just plain vegetable oil in all four of my saws a couple years ago. Have been on a couple forestry forums and a long time member of the Certified Tree Farm System and saw this recommendation a few years ago. I thought "you can't do that" well yes you can. Try it. Your saws will never be cleaner, your wallet will thank you, your chain will last longer and your closes will smell better (not smell) of skanky oil.

As for best saw in my shop with two stihl, one husky, and one john deere (efco) I pick the 562XP husky. Wow what a saw.






<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto4540.jpg">

We should really make sure people understand you are using vegetable oil for THE BAR AND CHAIN, not as a mix oil with the gas!!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 21:20:52 12/02/18) I believe pro level saws are no longer marketed under the Jonsered name. I think they only market 5 models under the Jonsered name anymore? The good stuff is all under the Husky name now.

Thats how I understand it too Don. Sad to see Jonsered go,but there;s no sense in a company competing with itself.
 
(quoted from post at 12:26:11 12/02/18) Who currently makes the best chainsaw for farm and ranch use?

For years, I would have said Stihl. Former Stihl dealer told me that is not the case today. He currently sells Makita.....so I take that with a grain of salt.

I would suspect any dealer would favor what he sells.


"Best" is a relative term. You can spend $1K on a saw and get a very, very good one. Or you can spend less than half that and also get a very, very good one. I would stay away from anything with a primer bulb on it, with a plastic crankcase or with a computer controlled carb. As far as make, Stihl, Husky, Makita/Dolmar and Echo are the only new saws I'd consider. I wouldn't rule out a good used saw in great condition from a reputable dealer that will stand behind it. In the Stihl line any of the newer "0" series, or "MS" series can be good saws. I suggest visiting a few dealers and seeing whats available in your price line. I look hard at Echo and Dolmar, not so much at the box store Huskys, and I was a Husky dealer. If it's got a primer bulb, pass it by.
 
Actually, I've been following all the posts with great interest. A lot of good information.

Encouraging to know that a motivated repair guy may be able to get the old Stihl going again. So what I have concluded for now is to take the saw to a local small engine shop that fixes stuff, but doesn't sell anything. I think he will get it going again for me. It may take him a month or so to get to it, but so be it.

Would rather have the older saws than new if it will fire up and run. There might be some kids out there who would like to have a saw that is WIFI enabled, but I'm not one of them.
 

My ex paw in law was an arborist in MS, we used McCullochs back then until they started on the plastic stuff and then he swapped to Stihl. He had lots of 10-10s and a 1000. Huge and heavy but man did that thing have the power to cut through the big stuff. My first saw was a 7-10 built out of a box of junk parts and that was a great saw. Someone else thought the same thing and stole it.

He impressed upon me that the key to longevity was to measure your mix and keep the air filter clean. That has served me well on my old 034 super. It still starts 1st or 2nd pull. It's probably 30 years old now and shows no sign of giving up. I also have a Jonsared turbo smaller saw that was given to me. Its a lot harder 1st start but cuts well and starts easier after that.

The best saw is the one with local dealer support. I see a quite a few of a brand called Redmax used by cutting crews. Good looking saws but I have no direct experience with them. No idea who makes them for sure, Husqvarna I think.

Use no ethanol trash. It's for drinking, not fuel. Measure mix and keep the air filter clean. It works.
 
(quoted from post at 09:39:48 12/03/18) Actually, I've been following all the posts with great interest. A lot of good information.

Encouraging to know that a motivated repair guy may be able to get the old Stihl going again. So what I have concluded for now is to take the saw to a local small engine shop that fixes stuff, but doesn't sell anything. I think he will get it going again for me. It may take him a month or so to get to it, but so be it.

Would rather have the older saws than new if it will fire up and run. There might be some kids out there who would like to have a saw that is WIFI enabled, but I'm not one of them.

If you're going to get it fixed then spend a few extra bucks and get the cranks seals replaced now too. They aren't expensive but they keep the saw from sucking air, going lean and scoring the jug or piston. Worth every penny to know they're good.
 
For decades all I ran was Stihl.

Acting on the advise of a few of the fine gentlemen on this site I purchased a new Jonsered a few years ago and I have been quite happy with it.

Not that it makes a big difference unless you are using it 8 hours a day but my Stihl 038 AV super (4.4 HP) seems like it uses twice as much fuel as my Jonsered CS 2166 (4.9 HP).

Saturday I was bucking firewood down to size and the boys were heaving it onto the truck.

The Jonsered went through 1 full tank of fuel (1.5 pint) and 5 minutes run time after being refueled to cut up enough logs to fill a tandem dump truck.

The boys are used to me cutting with the Stihl and were complaining doesn't that thing ever run out of fuel? we need a break.

Both saws have similar size fuel tanks.

I was told the Jonsered runs at a higher RPM than the Stihl but I have not looked that up to confirm it.
 
Awwww heck
me and my buddy as kids used to use his moms salad oil as premix when we had nothing else
smelled like fritos
so there
 
Echo still uses a primer bulb on some of there saws. I have an Echo 3000 top handle that's about 20 years
old and have only replaced 1 bulb and it gets more use than any of my saws. You give the primer bulb 3 pumps
and full choke and it starts on first pull but don't use it after saw is hot.
 
(quoted from post at 10:26:11 12/02/18) Who currently makes the best chainsaw for farm and ranch use?

First off, set aside all comments that say you should buy a brand that the commenter bought 10, 15, or 20+ years ago. Everything has changed in the industry since then.

Within the last 5 years I have bought and/or used a variety of NEW chainsaws. I've bought or extensively used Husqvarna, Stihl, and Echo.

Here's the real story: They are ALL good saws now. A saw bought today if properly set up and maintained will last the average farm/ranch user for decades. Only abuse or lack of maintenance will kill today's saws even at the lower/mid price range.

To me "farm and ranch use" means occasional use throughout the year for 20 minutes to an hour at a time with the occasional longer job.

Every 45 to 55 CC saw on the market from Echo, Stihl, and Husky will do what you need to do and it will last years and years if properly maintained.


IMO, buying a "pro grade" saw is a waste of money because only the professional arborist, logger, or heavy firewood cutter will use a saw enough to get the benefits for the greatly increased cost.

To me, the biggest factors I was looking at when I wanted to get a new mid-range saw were power to weight ratio and cost.

I ended up buying a Husqvarna 445 and it is a fantastic general maintenance saw. Fast enough on the big stuff, light enough to use on the small stuff.

My neighbor whom I help a lot bought a mid-range Echo at the same time. Again, terrific saw. I've put several hours on it. Great saw, great power, starts and runs great.

I can't emphasize enough to buy from a reputable dealer who knows what he's doing and will set up your new saw for local conditions. EVERY saw needs to be dialed in out of the box AND your dealer if he knows what he's doing (and many don't) will recommend specific lubricants for your operating conditions.

One thing to be aware of with Stihl. Currently, Stihl has a ZERO day warranty for any problem that the dealer considers to be "fuel related". No matter what the cause and even if you use Stihl's fuel and oil, you WILL be handed a repair bill on an "in warranty" Stihl if the dealer says the problem is related to fuel. I had it happen on a $1000 brush saw and I was NOT happy about it because I was using Stihl's recommended oil with stabilizer and non-ox gas again per Stihl's recommendation.

So if you do buy Stihl, unless something physically breaks on the saw, plan there being no warranty.


Grouse
 
That must be a thing with certain dealers. The two dealers I deal with tell you to use Stihl oil and saw is
totally covered under warranty.
 
(quoted from post at 12:19:37 12/03/18) That must be a thing with certain dealers. The two dealers I deal with tell you to use Stihl oil and saw is
totally covered under warranty.

Is this what they used to say, or what they would say TODAY?

Stihl changed warranty terms just about 5 years ago. All fuel system related failures are NOT covered. Anything that fuel or air touches on a Stihl have a zero day warranty.

Some dealers may do repairs for customer service but they can't submit these to Stihl or they will be rejected.

Grouse
 
(quoted from post at 10:47:54 12/03/18) Your Jonsered is built by Husky and is a rebadged Husky!!


Basically what you said is correct much like comparing GMC vs Chevrolet trucks.

Jonsered slightly different handle angle than the Husky.

Lower handle vibration levels on the Jonsered.

No big deal but some of us like the looks of the black and red better.

For me the decision came down to this;

Buy a Jonsered from a dealer that knows his stuff and
has almost anything you could want or need in stock for a better price than the Husky.

Buy a husky from a snot nosed kid at the parts counter of a tractor dealership who admitted he had not even heard of the name Jonsered before I mentioned it.

10 minutes of playing on his computer he came up with what he thought was the Husky equivlant and figured he could probably get one for me in a week for just under $100 more than what I could take home a Jonsered for the same day.

The reasons to buy one or the other may vary for all of us but for myself it was an easy decision to make.

I had gone to the Jonsered dealer first and he gave me a written quote for the saw I wanted, no haggling involved.

The dealership selling the Husky's could not be bothered to even have an employee with any knowledge of the line they were selling so my thinking is if they don't care up front they sure as sherman won't give a hoot when you have a problem.
 
Hmmmm......did some checking on the "chizzle chain". That seems to be the same as "chisel chain" or some other names. I get the part about it's shape, etc. but what I'm finding is that while it may cut fast in softwoods, it won't stay sharp for long in many dry hardwoods, which is what I'm up against.

At the same time, the PMM3 "safety chain" that came on the Stihl 170 I bought truly sucks when tackling anything larger than pruning green limbs, etc. Time from nice chips to fine dust measured in minutes vs. hours.

Guess what I'm trying to say is when it comes to saws, what may get drowned out in all the noise is the chain factor. When using that 032 Stihl with a freshly sharpened chain, I could feel the press of those big fingernail sized chips against my leg as it melted through a 1 foot log. The saw being part of it, but the chain and condition of the chain being used on it, being the other half of the equation. Perhaps with most on this list, that is a given, but not everyone is as aware of this as they should be.
 
There is very little difference between Husky and a Jonsered. All most all Husky parts interchange with
Jonsered. I have an older Husky and it's been a good saw but we have no servicing dealers anymore since the
big box stores started selling them ( big box stores do no servicing or parts). The same thing has happen
with Echo.
 
You know why that came about. There as so many people out there that use the cheapest fuel and pay no
attention what they use for oil. Stihl won't warranty anything that has used fuel with over 10% ethanol or
improper oil mixture.
 
(quoted from post at 16:51:21 12/03/18) Hmmmm......did some checking on the "chizzle chain". That seems to be the same as "chisel chain" or some other names. I get the part about it's shape, etc. but what I'm finding is that while it may cut fast in softwoods, it won't stay sharp for long in many dry hardwoods, which is what I'm up against.

At the same time, the PMM3 "safety chain" that came on the Stihl 170 I bought truly sucks when tackling anything larger than pruning green limbs, etc. Time from nice chips to fine dust measured in minutes vs. hours.

Guess what I'm trying to say is when it comes to saws, what may get drowned out in all the noise is the chain factor. When using that 032 Stihl with a freshly sharpened chain, I could feel the press of those big fingernail sized chips against my leg as it melted through a 1 foot log. The saw being part of it, but the chain and condition of the chain being used on it, being the other half of the equation. Perhaps with most on this list, that is a given, but not everyone is as aware of this as they should be.

Chisel refers to the chain shape. It will out cut chipper style even in dry hardwood.
 
(quoted from post at 05:47:40 12/04/18)
(quoted from post at 16:51:21 12/03/18) Hmmmm......did some checking on the "chizzle chain". That seems to be the same as "chisel chain" or some other names. I get the part about it's shape, etc. but what I'm finding is that while it may cut fast in softwoods, it won't stay sharp for long in many dry hardwoods, which is what I'm up against.

At the same time, the PMM3 "safety chain" that came on the Stihl 170 I bought truly sucks when tackling anything larger than pruning green limbs, etc. Time from nice chips to fine dust measured in minutes vs. hours.

Guess what I'm trying to say is when it comes to saws, what may get drowned out in all the noise is the chain factor. When using that 032 Stihl with a freshly sharpened chain, I could feel the press of those big fingernail sized chips against my leg as it melted through a 1 foot log. The saw being part of it, but the chain and condition of the chain being used on it, being the other half of the equation. Perhaps with most on this list, that is a given, but not everyone is as aware of this as they should be.

Chisel refers to the chain shape. It will out cut chipper style even in dry hardwood.

Can you give a specific reference to the exact product you are referring to? An Oregon chain or other product number?
 
(quoted from post at 15:29:20 12/03/18) There is very little difference between Husky and a Jonsered. All most all Husky parts interchange with
Jonsered. I have an older Husky and it's been a good saw but we have no servicing dealers anymore since the
big box stores started selling them ( big box stores do no servicing or parts). The same thing has happen
with Echo.

Not sure what you mean there are no servicing dealers for Echo and Husqvarna.

I've got multiple power equipment dealerships within 30 miles that sell and service both these brands. They service for the big box stores as well.

And no, there are no separate "big box" versions of these products. Only difference is the dealer will set up and tune your saw before you take it home. Prices here at least are the same, but one brand may go on sale at different retail outlets at different times.

Also most dealers here at least carry a larger lineup and only dealers carry the pro grade saws. At the big box stores, most only carry the homeowner versions up to 45 or 50 CC. Dealers carry the bigger saws.

Grouse
 
......Can you give a specific reference to the exact product you are referring to? An Oregon chain or other product number?

The best full chisel chain I have used is the Stihl RS. I mostly cut Douglas fir and it hauls through that when kept sharp. When I had to log out a bunch of windfall 4 year ago I only would file one time after lunch. I have also used Stihl RM which is a "semi-chisel" design. Probably 10% slower cutting than the RS and I don't notice that it goes any longer between filing.

I cut up a pretty good bunch of semi-dry oak and black locust for firewood last spring and did find that RS lost its edge pretty quickly. Had to give it a couple strokes with the file every couple tanks.

I may be a bit of a stickler about sharp chains, but IME it's much more efficient to take 5 minutes to file and keep the chain nice and sharp than it is to keep muscling through the cuts.
 
I get concerned when experienced guys start recommending full chisel saw chains to people who are less experienced without mentioning safety.

DANGER. Be aware that full chisel chains have a potentially greater risk of kickback!

Grouse
 
Thanks! I should have mentioned that both chains I mentioned are "pro grade" chains with [b:187a63dcde]no[/b:187a63dcde] low or anti kickback features.

Both the chains I mentioned are available in a low kickback version by adding a 3 to the designation. The low kickback feature does not seem to noticeably affect the cutting when bucking on the flat of the bar, but are pitifully slow when you need to plunge cut or do anything off the bar tip.
 
Dang it, I hate that you can not edit posts here....

Forgot to add that the Stihl chain types I mentioned are .325 pitch by .063 gauge. If you are using a 3/8" pitch x.05 gauge the designations will be different.
 
(quoted from post at 11:08:56 12/04/18)
(quoted from post at 05:47:40 12/04/18)
(quoted from post at 16:51:21 12/03/18) Hmmmm......did some checking on the "chizzle chain". That seems to be the same as "chisel chain" or some other names. I get the part about it's shape, etc. but what I'm finding is that while it may cut fast in softwoods, it won't stay sharp for long in many dry hardwoods, which is what I'm up against.

At the same time, the PMM3 "safety chain" that came on the Stihl 170 I bought truly sucks when tackling anything larger than pruning green limbs, etc. Time from nice chips to fine dust measured in minutes vs. hours.

Guess what I'm trying to say is when it comes to saws, what may get drowned out in all the noise is the chain factor. When using that 032 Stihl with a freshly sharpened chain, I could feel the press of those big fingernail sized chips against my leg as it melted through a 1 foot log. The saw being part of it, but the chain and condition of the chain being used on it, being the other half of the equation. Perhaps with most on this list, that is a given, but not everyone is as aware of this as they should be.

Chisel refers to the chain shape. It will out cut chipper style even in dry hardwood.

Can you give a specific reference to the exact product you are referring to? An Oregon chain or other product number?

If you go to the following link you'll see the difference between chisel and chipper style teeth. When the cutting edge has a straight top plate with a 90 degree (+/-) corner, it's a chisel chain. When it has a mild radius on the corner it's called a semi-chisel and an arced/rounded corner is a chipper style. "Full" chisel is just to differentiate from "semi" chisel. "Full" can also refer to the difference between a "skip tooth" chain and a "full" chain, which regards the spacing between cutter teeth. Chisel chain comes with and without anti-kickback features, usually related to the depth gauge (raker) shape and size. By itself, I don't believe a sharp chisel chain is any more or less likely to kickback than a sharp semi chisel or chipper chain. But chisel is more aggressive in cutting so it's said to be more prone. I've had so called "safety chain" or anti-kickback chain kick back. Nothing bad happened to me because I have good safety habits when I use a saw as far as kick back goes. You keep your left arm pretty straight and don't lean over the saw and a lot less bad things will happen. Safety has to come first with any style of chain tooth. Myself, I've seen more people hurt with a dull anti-kickback type chain than with a sharp chisel chain, but that's just me and what I've seen. There is no such thing as a "safe" chainsaw chain.

The link shows just chisel and chipper chain. Semi-chisel just has a radius where the "point" on the chisel chain is.

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_teeth_types.htm
 
To close the loop on this thread, I went to retrieve the 032 and was presented with a bill of $44 to diagnostics.......basically how much to tell me they couldn't fix it. But, if I bought a new saw they would wave it.

In the end, I would up buying a Stihl MS271, 18" bar. I'm not cutting for a living, or even firewood to heat the house......more like clearing brush and downed trees, so this should suffice.

FWIW, 032 is going to a farm raised kid whose passion / hobby is patching up small engines. Will see what he can do with it. I have the diagnostics summary, so we basically know what is wrong with it. That, plus the websites you guys mentioned here as sources for after market parts......will help. We will see.

Also, when I talked to my independent small engine guy, he also said it would be $50 to find out if he could fix the 032 and it would be like a 1 in 4 chance of being successful, knowing the age of it and what seemed to be wrong with it.

And lastly, local Stihl dealer, which owns something like 75% of the commercial small engine market around here.....including 99% of all the professional weed wackers.......has dropped the Echo line from inventory, including all service. Echo is now found in the box stores and they no longer want anything to do with them.

Small engine guy told me Echo and Stihl are both good, but Echo parts are expensive by comparison. He doesn't see much Husky as no good dealers around locally, so not many are found in this market.

FWIW........
 
. Asking a thousand different people for thier idea of best will obtain about 10 very different categories of answers .
Let’s also ask the best motor oil , the best additives for gasoline or oil , the best political party and the best religion while we are at it .
 

Most manufactures make 2 or 3 lines of goods .
The cheapest possible for those who will only purchase the absolute cheapest even though it doesn’t not cost the least .
A mid range line of goods with a decent compromise between cost and quality .
And a premium line for those who value reliability and long service life over the initial cost .
I have an old Jonsered 70E from the early 1980’s that still runs like new and has only required normal wear parts . Heavy old brute but makes 30” hard through maple logs almost easy.
 

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