Battery going down

On my baby tractor (Farmall 65) all fall on the auger The battery was slowly going down. First thing I noticed was the tach. quit. Then sometimes the starter would just click but if I tried it again it would start. It would do that for maybe twenty starts then it would just click until I put the charger on it. I replaced the starter switch thinking it was that. Then it started perfect for 20 starts then started doing the same thing. Next I replaced the battery. It was the original (6 years old) Then it started good for next 20 starts then started doing same thing. Through all this the tach never started working. Is it the alt. or broken wire? Or something else?

It sounds exactly like the alt, broken wire, Or something else.

Not fimilar with that tractor, but a couple things come to mind. Since you said the tach. stopped at about the same period, if you have to run down wires that is the first one I'd start with. Maybe it's shorted some where's maybe even the guage itself. Does it have an ammeter or just a volt meter? I could see where a volt meter would show altenator out putting but it's just shorting to ground. Seems like that would make quick work of the alternator though. The other thought was maybe something similar with starting relay? I had an old Pontiac that did that, the main contacts in the relay were all pitted. Took it apart and turned the contacts 180 deg. worked fine after that. Heck maybe you're real lucky and it's both!

Good luck.
JD

Stop guessing and trouble shoot.
#1 check battery voltage not running. You should get 12.5 plus.
#2 check battery voltage running you should get 13-14 volts.
If either is not that then start checking wires and also take the alternator in and have it tested. Not sure what alternator it has so hard to say more as to what to check

Pin point where the problem is by unhooking ground cable and put test light between cable and bat. post. If light lights then there is a short, start by disconnecting the Alt. and then go from there.

. Use the ammeter function of a multimeter . Isolate loads and circuits until the current drain stops .

Sounds like it is not charging.

Each time you charge the battery or replaced the battery, it resulted in a temporary fix until the battery ran down again.

The tach problem could be related. Depending on how the alternator is wired, the tach may be on the circuit that provides the excite voltage to start the alternator charging.

Check all the fuses, look for obvious wiring problems like mouse chewed wiring, unplugged connectors, burned or pinched wires. Check the alternator belt to be sure it is tight and not glazed or worn down to the bottom of the pulley.

If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage with the engine at 1/2 throttle or more. Should get about 14-15 volts. If down around 12v it is not charging.

You can take the alternator to about any auto supply and have it tested. If it tests good there is a wiring problem.

Without knowing the brand and model number of the alternator, can't tell you what to check other than the large battery post should have battery voltage at all times.

If you are not comfortable trouble shooting this, a starter/alternator shop could repair it, probably much less than a trip to the dealer.

CaseIH Farmall 65A BY CHANCE...


If it has a NIPPONDENSO starter sounds like the contacts are bad in the starter... Google it a EZ repair...

replace contacts in a NIPPONDENSO starter

Its a pattern failure all you get is a loud click when you hit the starter switch to crank it.... The signal wire at the starter is know to get loose also it will not click with that issue... Either way a EZ check as to can get to the battery lug and the starter motor lug when mounted on the tractor...

(quoted from post at 12:09:07 11/21/18) It sounds exactly like the alt, broken wire, Or something else.

Click to expand...

Short, to the point and dead on accurate. Perfect.

if there would be a short a fuse would fail and the circuit would be open and not run battery down careful when using the word short in electrical uses

Yes, that is the complete ID of my tractor. I always thought the 65A stood for -ag tractor and the 65C stood for -construction tractor. But then I found out the C stands for -cab
tractor. So what does the A stand for?

Okay, so I think I will take the alt. down and have it checked. Have to do it next week. Playing with the Grands next 4 days. Don't need tractor until next April. Put duals on it and pull the 12 ft. IH. 51 press drill. Sometimes 45 ft. spring tooth harrow. 15 ft. rotary hoe. New Holland 55 side delivery rake. New Holland 65 compact baler. Then the auger for corn harvest.

Even if other problems are found make sure battery cables and connectors are clean, bright and tight, especially where ground cable connects to tractor frame. I would want it connected to solid part of frame, not to some wimpy sheet metal.

Also be sure post connectors are not eaten away or corroded. If any question replace battery cables

Years back a guy had a nice looking pickup up on Ft Riley. Never moved unless it got ticketed. Got ahold of the guy and asked if he wanted to sell it. He said sure. Told me it would only start when jumped.
He'd replaced the batter, Starter, alternator, voltage regulator, solenoid, darn near every thing to fix the problem. After I'd paid him, he went looking for jumper cables. I popped the hood and noticed he had battery cables with replacement ends. I took them apart and cleaned them. Truck started just fine. He got back with the cable about three minutes later.
A madder man than Mathew Mears you would not wish to see...


There was a man who had a clock
His name was Mathew Mears.
And every day he wound that clock
For four and twenty years.
And then one day he found that clock
An eight day clock to be
And a madder man than Mathew Mears
You would not wish to see.

Have you put a volt meter to the battery and see if you have around 14 volts