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Do you have a Cycle Stop Valve?

showcrop

showcrop

Well-known Member
I just came across this yesterday when I stopped in to see an old friend who had recently moved in down the road. He had a new well drilled and the pump control installation included one of these valves. It is a special pressure regulating valve that goes between the pump and the pressure switch to throttle the pump output, instead of controlling the pressure by starting and stopping the pump. The pump will still have to be controlled by the pressure switch but for as long as water is being continuously drawn the pump will continue to run. Any pump which is moving less water will draw less current, but the main thing is that the pump doesn't start as often saving the motor, and that you maintain constant even pressure for your water uses. I will be putting one in soon. Don't condemn it without becoming informed if you don't know about it.
 
Any pump that is pumping against pressure will draw MORE current. I don't see how a "cycle" valve will reduce the
pressure against the pump.
 
It's meant to reduce the number of times that the pump goes through a start/stop cycle, which would increase the life of the pump.
 
a positive displacement pump will do as you say. An impeller based pump changes efficiency under restriction and the load is reduced. A perfect example is a vacuum cleaner. Running with a clean filter/bag, and an open clean hose, the sound it makes is a medium deep whine. If you cap off the intake (or exhaust) the sound increases in pitch (because they are universal motors (brushes not synchronous) the motor speeds up because the load goes down. The fins on the turbine just spin the same air over and over with much less work being done. It seems wrong, but isn't. Jim
 
Does a cycle stop valve eliminate the need for a bladder pressure tank (accumulator)? Is the bleed-off water flow recirculated to the pump inlet?
 
From what I remember, a pressure tank is still required, though of a much smaller size. Can't remember how much smaller or how they figure the tank size.
 
Right on Jim, that's why you are not supposed to run a submersible well pump without any restriction on the discharge, they can overload and burn out the motor.
 
A lot of trouble when a larger pressure tank does the same thing. My well pump does not kick on more than 4-5 times each day. Larger pressure tanks are not much more money than smaller ones.
 
I believe that my system is also set up that way. I have a geo-thermal heat pump and it uses the well water to heat the house. It was implied that my electric bill should go down with this new system, but I think that it went up a little bit. The display on the box shows 71 lbs. and when the system is pumping water it will drop to 67 and then return to 71 when the demand decreases. It is a computerized system that has eliminated the old mechanical pressure switch. I have only had it in operation for about 14 months.
 
(quoted from post at 07:29:48 11/18/18) Any pump that is pumping against pressure will draw MORE current. I don't see how a "cycle" valve will reduce the
pressure against the pump.
Click to expand...

Roger, putting it in capitals does not necessarily make it true. If you stop by your local fire dept. They could perhaps make you understand, or perhaps even demonstrate it for you.
 
> Any pump that is pumping against pressure will draw MORE current. I don't see how a "cycle" valve will reduce the
pressure against the pump.

Remember that power is the rate at which work is done. The work in this case is pumping water from the bottom of the well to the pressure tank. Whether it takes two minutes or one minute to refill the tank, the total work done is the same. If it takes two minutes to refill the tank, the average power consumption will be half as much as if it takes one minute. Assuming the power factor and voltage are unchanged, the current draw will be half as much over two minutes as opposed to one minute. This is all basic thermodynamics.
 
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