69stang

Member
I don't want to take from SVcummins post below, but is there any issue with running engine oil rate "heavy duty diesel engine oil" in a gas engine? I'v been using Delo 15-40 in all my diesel tractors, farm pickups and trucks. The oil recently change labels and cap color and now says heavy duty engine oil.
 
Run it in everything. From F12 to M to 1456.Combine and grain truck,ATV,pickup,car,lawnmower????????.
 
I don't think I would run it in a modern gas engine, most of them require a much lighter oil. Our car uses 0-20 synthetic, the truck 5-30, I would never put 15-40 in them.
 
In the older gas engines, it will be a good choice, especially engines with flat tappet cams.

But in the newer engines, with all the sophisticated emission controls and variable valve timing, GDI fuel systems, I would run exactly what the mfg recommends. Especially with GDI (gas direct injection). With that system, (and that is what about all the late model cars and light trucks use), they need special low deposit oil to maintain warranty and help prevent carbon deposits on the back of the intake valves.
 
Very sound advice. There's a reason that many modern automotive engines specify relatively thin oil and a person is risking inadequate lubrication if too thick of an oil is used. The extremely tight tolerances that modern engines are designed to can be properly lubricated by the thin oil but thicker oil may be slow getting to everywhere it needs to be, the overhead cams and hydraulic lash adjusters in particular. The achieved benefit to the manufacturer of the thin oil and the tight tolerances that allow for it is improved fuel economy and when dealing with CAFE standards every little bit helps.
 
It's designed to be a "mixed fleet" type oil, favored for diesel but good for gas motors too. *However*, as others are saying, look at the oil weight specified for a given engine. Also I still see some of the older CI4+ spec here and there which has higher ZDDP which is not good for catalytic converters. The Delo "LE" has lowered zinc (they added in some other chemistry) and should be ok-ish but do stick with weight recommendations on modern stuff.

I do run 15w-40 in all my equipment (all of it old) and carburated Chevies (also old).
 
Agree with Grizz02. Run it in everything. It MAY hurt your fuel consumption a little but the bearing will love it.
 
YES!!!!!!!!

you absolutely cannot run the old 15w-40 roteella in everything like you could before (like 2007 and later when 1st emissions on diesels) .

in newer stuff you MUST put in the engine what the manufacturer says. the newer cars/trucks with VVT must have the right oil or they won't work right and could be damaged. that $0.05 you might save on oil could cost you $X,000's for engine or emissions repair or replacement. doesn't make sense to be foolish with your oil.

even the new farm tractors with the emissions nonsense must have the right oil weight and right type for the emissions to work right.

ya, your old antique tractors don't care too much. I personally put straight 30 weight in my equipment. if cold weather is a concern I use full synthetic. it flows better than 15W-xx in the winter anyway.
 
Depends on your climate and the mfg'r recommendations. Summer use, might not be any problem that you'd notice. If the owners manual recommends 5W-30 below 32F and you need it to start reliably after sitting outside all night in -25F weather with no block heater, or after a full shift at work when the high temp for the day is -10F, I'd stay with what the mfg recommends.
 
(quoted from post at 09:17:14 11/16/18) YES!!!!!!!!

you absolutely cannot run the old 15w-40 roteella in everything like you could before (like 2007 and later when 1st emissions on diesels) .

in newer stuff you MUST put in the engine what the manufacturer says. the newer cars/trucks with VVT must have the right oil or they won't work right and could be damaged. that $0.05 you might save on oil could cost you $X,000's for engine or emissions repair or replacement. doesn't make sense to be foolish with your oil.

even the new farm tractors with the emissions nonsense must have the right oil weight and right type for the emissions to work right.

ya, your old antique tractors don't care too much. I personally put straight 30 weight in my equipment. if cold weather is a concern I use full synthetic. it flows better than 15W-xx in the winter anyway.

CAUTION! There is straight weight 30 and there is HD 30. A non detergent straight weight 30 will not work well in any engine after 1930 or so. SO>>>> be sure to run a hd 30 with additives. NonDetergent oils should ONLY be run in engines with poured babbet bearings as the newer hd oils will wash out the bearing due the heavy cleaning effect. Straight weight 30 will coke, gunk and sludge up a perfectly good engine. It will boil off and thicken, and not protect from cold starts. It will have a huge viscosity change over temps. There are NO good reasons to run a ND30 oil in anything other than a sewing machine. SO... if you must run a 30 wt oil, run an hd version.
 

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