Menards material costs pole barn vs garage

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I tried to make two buildings as similar as possible. Both with 1 ft eves. Garage with metal siding over 7/15 osb and 35 year shingles 1/2 osb. I was able to make pole barn with 1 ft vented eves, 8 ft posts, 8 ft trusses.

I could only use 10x8 doors on garage package, so I used same size on pole barn.

Here is the actual prices, almost $1500 more for a 30x40x10 pole barn. Why?
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IMHO, Those prices are so close together that unless you add in all the other cost differences of the construction, they are a wash.
 
That is kind of like comparing apples to Buicks. The garage sits on a foundation (that costs money too) where the pole barn is supported by the poles (and has no nice smooth cement floor). Compare the total cost of the project and decide based on what is important to you and want versus need.
 
Laminated poles and heavier trusses used in pole building would be my guess. The foundation (concrete at 100 bucks a yard) as stated will eat up the pole barn price pretty quickly.

As a side not i would never use 1/2 inch osb on a roof. I did it one time and now 15 years later the roof is starting to wave back at me when i look at it.
 
Treated lumber is high priced. If you are going to concrete the floor anyway I would go with the garage.

I will never build another pole barn. Every building will set on concrete so it last more than 40 years without the base rotting away.
 
Bill ..... quick question about never using 1/2" OSB on a roof. I guess I have to ask what truss or joist spacing are you talking about? Up here, and we get LOTS of snow, 1/2" OSB on 2' truss centers is the standard code I believe.

On a side note, my house was built in '71 and strangely enough, the contractor used 1x6 spruce lumber (over 2' rafter spacing) on my roof. Every time I have had my roof re-shingled (which is 3 times now), the roofers curse me and tell me that had they known that, the price would have been more. Removing shingles from a lumber roof is a lot tougher because of all the joints between the wood I guess.
 
sounds pretty cheap to do a footer and lay up the block to build a stud frame on ? If same price I'd do the block foundation as it will not rot. Back when I did my garage IIRC it was a lot more money than pole type.
 
My guess, the difference between the two is that real boards hold nails and staples a lot better than OSB making removal more difficult, and re-roofing, a roofer who cares about a good job would have to be careful not to hit the many cracks between the boards.
 
Mine is 1/2 osb with 24? truss spacing. Everything since has been 5/8 or 3/4?. Time will tell on those but so far so good but i have also switched from shingles to standing seam steel.

Tear off on boards is a real pain cause the tearoff tool catches every board.
 
......1/2" OSB on 2' truss centers is the standard code I believe.

Per code here, you have to install a little metal clip between the panel edges at the mid-point between trusses or rafters if you are using 1/2" OSB or plywood. Keeps the edges of each panel braced to the next. Less waviness and prevents tearing the roofing when walking the roof and the panels flex.
 
my 30x40 pole barn has 1/2 osb on 2 ft trusses, 35 year shingles and it passed the county building inspector.
 
(quoted from post at 11:55:31 11/09/18)
......1/2" OSB on 2' truss centers is the standard code I believe.

Per code here, you have to install a little metal clip between the panel edges at the mid-point between trusses or rafters if you are using 1/2" OSB or plywood. Keeps the edges of each panel braced to the next. Less waviness and prevents tearing the roofing when walking the roof and the panels flex.

Same thing here, you are supposed to use H clips between panels.
Plywood is recommended if you are putting on a metal roof, plywood holds screws better.
 
Just to clarify 1/2? osb is span rated for a roof at 24? using H clips between the trusses. My personal preference after doing my garage roof 15 years ago is use 5/8 minimum. When i did the house last summer it got 3/4 plywood. When i walk on the 1/2? roof it flexes underfoot and not from water damage. The roof shows stress from years of use and has dips in it between the rafters. It has a single layer of architectual shingles on it. I assume when the shingles fail i will strip it down and put new sheeting down. I guess it depends upon your goal. Do you want to save money then use 1/2?. For longevity use something thicker.
 

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