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Plowing

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
For the people who know how it is even though they weren’t there
mvphoto26206.jpg
 
sorry sv didn't mean to pi you off .at 14 it must be rolling that grass 360 degrees and putting it back on top
 
Your ok .14 is deep deep like I say I shoot for 10 sometimes 12 and as shallow as 8 where it?s rocky now that I have a gauge wheel
 
Something is definitely not set up correctly. The guys from England got to be either crying or laughing to tears over that job.
 
Here in the UK I am very involved with ploughing matches both as a competitor and as a judge and you would not get many points from me for that mess. MJ
 
When the Missouri River flooded, around seven years ago, some river bottom farms had to deep moldboard plow to bury and mix the sandy sediment that was deposited.
 
My old JD LA and mounted plow did a fine job of turning sod over when I plowed an area to remove the topsoil where the double wide was going to go. I was impressed with how well it did.
IIRC the late Pat Browning said a plow (old ones) was only designed to go as deep as 1/2 the width of cut.
So you are likely going way deeper than yours were designed to go. So a say 14" plow was really designed to go 7" deep.
 
There is a little depth stop on the 3 pt. controls to set for depth and along with the L & D lever in the proper position it should maintain close to where set at. I'd have to review the owners manual for settings. Gauge wheels were usually only needed on old tractors without load and draft control. According to JD literature their lower link system was to be among the best.
 
The draft does work good but I was really trying to plow as deep as possible on this little piece . I need to readjust the internal linkage on the 3020 the draft on it doesn?t work at all
 
Dumb question: with a two way plow, why turn the furrow down hill? Erosion will move soil down hill soon enough.
 
I fail to follow your logic in plowing that deep. I DO understand the virtues of vertical zone tillage, but plowing that deep only brings up soil with little to no fertility that you have to enhance with with a lot of fertilizer to support a crop.I think you would be far better off using a V ripper to enhance vertical moisture migration by shattering the subsoil rather than destroying the fertility of your crop's root zone, and then do a good job of
moldboard plowing at about 8" to control weed and unwanted former crop growth while maintaining the fertility of your root zone
Loren
 
Hi thats plowing too deep for that width of furrow. You need a
big breaker for that. Ed Will Oliver BC
 
This piece is red clay about four feet deep I was trying to break up sold old hard pan it had been pasture for about 40 years
 
The gauge wheel does more besides control depth these ih plows tend to want roll out of the furrow without it then the moldboard doesn?t move the furrow slice all the way it helps make it do what it?s doung here
 
As I said you should be using a Deep V subsoiler to accomplish your goals. You are not doing that soil any good with your current program. Go to the Ag-phd site and see what the experts have to say about soil health.
Loren
 
When I first spotted the picture, I said to myself, " Wow! That's some deep plowing. When scrolling down the page, I see others thought the same..
 
(quoted from post at 20:30:04 10/31/18) As I said you should be using a Deep V subsoiler to accomplish your goals. You are not doing that soil any good with your current program. Go to the Ag-phd site and see what the experts have to say about soil health.
Loren
Click to expand...

I agree. I tried deep plowing to break up years of compaction. All I did is create a new, deeper plow sole. Sub-soiling is the answer, but that takes a lot of tractor to pull a real one, especially more than one shank. And if it's wet, it''s even harder.

Hey SV, at least you're trying!
 
Can't be much of a "hard pan" there if you're able to plow that deep that easily... and by "easily" I mean AT ALL.

Most of the ground around here, the only way to go that deep is with a backhoe.
 
Unless you have a tractor that I don't know about, you will never pull a three shank ripper with the tractors I have seen. For a ripper to really do it's job you need to pull it a minimum of 5 mph. I pulled a 3 shank with a 120 hp. fwa. and could only go 4.25 mph. If your planning on going 14 inches deep with ripper you need at least 200 hp. on 3 shanks.
 
(quoted from post at 16:25:10 10/31/18) The gauge wheel does more besides control depth these ih plows tend to want roll out of the furrow without it then the moldboard doesn?t move the furrow slice all the way it helps make it do what it?s doung here
Click to expand...

I used to spend a lot of time in front of a rollover, we're real hilly here, and have terraces.

I agree that the plow will want to roll out of the furrow at times.

In a perfect world, if you set it up level (that's level WHEN PLOWING), it ought to run good. But sometimes you hit something that brings the plow up out of the ground a bit, and it can start to tilt. Especially with an old hydraulic system that allows the roll cylinder to creep. In that case, keep an eye on it, and hit your remote to take the creep out of the cylinder once in a while. (This might be BS far as your plow is concerned, I ran an Oliver rollover that might be completely different)

My plow has one of those gage wheels that flops over when you roll the plow, and sometimes it didn't catch on the stop that prevented it from swinging. I believe (Gawd, it's been a long time since I used that thing) the plow would bury itself with a real good tilt towards the land side.

I'd guess you have a sliding depth stop on the 3pt lever quadrant. They're nice, but not an end-all-be-all when running a mounted plow. Variances in the ground can cause you to run too deep, or too shallow. Keep an eye on the plow. I think I spent more time turned around than I did looking forward. Still do as a matter of fact :lol: I don't trust anything to run right, always keep an eye over my shoulder.

Old timers will tell ya, that you don't have to go any deeper than what it takes to make a good seed bed. 8" is good.

Anyways, it's a drizzle day here, can't really get much done, so's I gots a lot of time to annoy people :D You'll get it figured out.
 

Got you some pics. Been a while since the ol' gal has been in the ground.


mvphoto26269.jpg


When setting one of these up (this happens to be an old Raydex), you need to level them.

Drop it, and run for a bit. Stand back, and look at how level the bottoms are. A rollover is easy to see.

Posted this pic down in the equipment forums, but it's a good example of how it should look.

mvphoto26270.jpg


See how the bottoms are level on the horizon, while the tractor is tilted down in the furrow.

My adjustments are probably different than yours, bein' as it's an Oliver plow, but you can see how there is a provision for leveling the plow. In this case....stop bolts.

mvphoto26271.jpg


Also, notice how the hitch assembly is tilted in comparison to the body of the plow. That's your offset to take care of the difference between plow running flat, and how the tractor has it's wheels down in the furrow.

Just as a side note...…..You can see just how level you're set up, by looking at your bottoms. They should be wearing relatively evenly along the edge.

mvphoto26272.jpg


Once you start wearing into the hooked/curved forward edge of the bottom, it's usually time to put some new shares on. It won't wanna suck down into the ground once these hooks wear down too far.

BTW, here's that crazy gage wheel. Drive ya nuts sometimes when it doesn't latch.

mvphoto26273.jpg


Anyways, hope it helps. I don't imagine there's many folks running these nowdays, not sure (shrug)

Got no excuse now, the drizzle stopped, and the sun's out. For now :lol:
 
Luckily the ih latch design really works well it almost
never misses the latch even have a homemade one
on the 642 and it works great .
 
I always like to watch the plow working that?s why
my furrows are always crooked again probably
wouldn?t get me many points in a plow match but
points don?t grow crops and I?ve caught lots of
things about ready to cause a problem buy watching
the implement
 
A ripper Is on my wish list but for now I don?t have one . I went to school with a kid that put a ripper shank on the shank below the frog on every other bottom on his moldboard plow . I?ve thought about trying that on one plow
 
I know it takes a big tractor to rip I?ve seen when a 250 hp tractor couldn?t pull 9 shanks 10 inches deep at 4 mph and it was a mfwd and ballasted to the max
 
(quoted from post at 12:58:48 10/31/18) My old JD LA and mounted plow did a fine job of turning sod over when I plowed an area to remove the topsoil where the double wide was going to go. I was impressed with how well it did.
IIRC the late Pat Browning said a plow (old ones) was only designed to go as deep as 1/2 the width of cut.
So you are likely going way deeper than yours were designed to go. So a say 14" plow was really designed to go 7" deep.
Click to expand...

With the gauge wheel keeping the plow level it does a good job to about 12 inches deep now. I wish I had a set of cover boards for it like the other rollover plow has
 
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