1951 8n Ford tractor

Tractor wouldn't start, switch ok, starter button ok, voltage at starter wouldn't turn over. Replaced starter tractor started. Shut it off restarted and went to use it. While using it shut down. It turns over but will not start. Have you any suggestion on what to do next? Thank you

Do some simple trouble shooting.

#1 pull the center wire out of the distributor cap and make sure you have a good blue white spark and then check the same at toe plug wires. Spark should jump a 1/4 inch gap or more.
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes.

My distributor cap does not have plug wire on top coil sits on top of distributor. Did pull plug #1 had good spark. Pulled drain plug on carburetor flow not good. Thank you for your help. God bless you all for helping old people.

Sounds like you have a front mount distributor that would make yout tractor a 48 to early 50 model while later 50 as I understand and 51 & 52 models have the side mount distributor with that center wire like Old was refering to.

Sounds like you might have fuel issues. Go over to the 9N/2N/8N forum on this site and describe your problem, lots of expert help there.

That tell me it is not a 1951 but a 1948 to early 1950. The late 1950 to 1952 had the side mount distributor and the 5 nipple distributor cap

I use an old windex type spray bottle with gas. Remove the breather and spray it straight in the carb while cranking. If it fires you have a carb problem sometimes you can spray a little to keep it running for 30 sec or so and it may pick up and run on it's own. Sometimes that's all it needs
It's also a good way to crank pain in the butt lawn mowers

"Pulled drain plug on carburetor flow not good."

You've narrowed the problem down for sure. Next is to back up stream.

Is the flow good out of the line when it's disconnected from the carb elbow?
If it is, unscrew the elbow and check the screen that is attached to it.
If the screen is good and clean, then you might need to work on the carb.
If the screen is not attached, make sure it's not lodged in the carb.

If flow is not good at the line, there are two more screens on the
N series fuel system, plus the line itself to check. One screen is
in the sediment bowl on top of the glass bowl. Easy to check.
Turn the fuel off, take the bowl off and remove the gasket and screen.

The third one is on top of the sediment bowl assembly, inside the tank.
It's not all that hard to take it out and check it, but requires draining the tank.

As an aside, the N series fuel shutoff is meant to be run only two
full turns open with at least two gallons of fuel in the tank.
Opening it up further is the "reserve" and lets you get that last
two gallons of fuel out to get home. Problem is, the bottom of the
tank and that "reserve" opening are often plugged full of rust.
Opening it only two full turns with a half full tank of fuel may make it run.

again I want thank everyone for your help. Have good gas flow to carb not going to mess with carb just going to replace. looks like tractor is not 1951 but 1949, Again thank you have a nice day.

(quoted from post at 18:11:06 10/31/18)
again I want thank everyone for your help. Have good gas flow to carb not going to mess with carb just going to replace. looks like tractor is not 1951 but 1949, Again thank you have a nice day.

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You might be better off in the long run to rebuild your carb or buy a rebuilt one, rather than a new one from the "land of all most right". These original carbs were designed to be rebuilt over and over. Check at the 9n/2N/8N forum, there are folks there that rebuild or sell rebuilt ones. I've done two of mine and it's not hard to do, but don't have the time to do it for others..