Table saw and Jointer

TDJD

Member
Hi. Does anybody know where I could get a operators manual for this saw or jointer? And is there a attachment instead of the blade (for the saw) that you can cut shiplap or tongue and groove?
Thanks for any information.
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Your best attachment would be a set of DaDo cutters. They make several choices of cutters to use instead of a blade.
 
Much easier to cut shiplap joints with the jointer, because the cutter is under the fence. Put fence so 3/8" is exposed from the fence, raise cutter so it cuts 3/8", and away you go.
 
Nice pair of tools for your shop. What size saw blale does that table saw use? Most these days are 10", but 8" was common back in the day and not a common blade size anymore. I would say that the older tools are pretty much universal and an operator's manual might not be necessary assuming you have some experience using one. Just use them for various small projects and you'll teach yourself as you go along. A bit of oil on threaded adjustments never hurts, check the bearings that support the arbor (shaft) and of course a nice sharp blade for the saw and maybe a sharpening shop can trim up the blades on the jointer. Dull blades are a curse for any woodworking project. Most arbors nowadays are 5/8", some of the older and larger table saws were 3/4" I think.
 
You'll find an online copy of the jointer manual here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/698/2201.pdf

Can't find anything for the table saw. Closest I can find is this chapter from a book:
http://www.woodworkslibrary.com/repository/walker_turner_the_bench_saw.pdf

You can make ship lap edges using either machine. Another name for this joint is rabbeting (when done with the grain), or dadoing (when done cross-grain). [i:c0a1b14a6d][color=blue:c0a1b14a6d](I always wondered about that. *lol*)[/color:c0a1b14a6d][/i:c0a1b14a6d]

For tongue-and-groove, your best bet [b:c0a1b14a6d][i:c0a1b14a6d]of the two machines[/i:c0a1b14a6d][/b:c0a1b14a6d] is the table saw. However, it would be much faster and safer to make tongue-and-groove using a shaper or larger router; preferably a shaper.

As for how to make either of these joints, I'm not even going to try and explain it. First, been too long since [b:c0a1b14a6d]"I've"[/b:c0a1b14a6d] done it. Second, .......it's just better if any instruction comes from people who do this work on a regular basis.

On top of it you're using antiquated machines. Yes, they're well made, but we have no way of knowing their current condition [b:c0a1b14a6d]OR[/b:c0a1b14a6d] your own skill level.

There are ample videos on youtube that will show in great detail how to make either profile, though on newer machinery. I cannot recommend more highly than to check that out! Also, maybe look for a forum that specializes in the use of vintage woodworking machinery and maybe see if there is anyone in your area that could assist on getting the proper adjustments made for your machines. Also, these old machines weren't known for their amazing safety features.

Two words:
BE CAREFUL!!
 
You can get molding cutters for the table saw. But they are dangerous, it's illegal to even sell them in Europe.

If you want to risk removing a few of your fingers, search ebay for "table saw molding cutters".

The tool designed for that job is the shaper. If you have the boards and need them cut for just one job you might be better off taking them to a mill and paying someone to do it with the proper equipment.
 
You sure have that Be Careful thing right!!!! My dad bought a plunge
router and installed it upside down into his big table saw. It
actually works quite well for moldings and stuff. He did find out that
you do not want to try and pull out a stuck bit. Split his thumb right
to the bone. ZAPPP!!. Blood all over the place.
 
There really isn't much to those machines you need a manual for. The saw will take standard size blades and the jointer will use stock knives. You won't be able to buy parts so about all you can do is clean them up and put them to work.

It sounds like you have a molding cutter with the table saw. In a pinch it will make molding for you but I don't think you will like it. Those cut so rough you have to make multiple passes to make anything with it and the vibration from them is downright scary. I used to make cabinet doors with one of those and hope I never have to do it again. The nice thing is if you just need a small amount of molding you can take a blank knife and grind your own design in it. Might come in handy if you need to match some molding which is no longer available.
 

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