testing condneser reply

wilson ind · Oct 19, 2018

New points and condenser and all is good. To 504 I do not understand why I would need a new ballast with original post stated new coil with no resistor needed? please explain? U do recall many years ago fellow had badly burnt points , installed new points with out condenser. After 2 more sets of points in 10 minuets a new condenser and points it was ok. My cost was over 30 dollars for both parts. Does seem rather high. The new points were of the type with hole in center of swing arm .

BushogPapa · Oct 19, 2018

Without exception, any old fashioned Ignition that has "Points, MUST have a condenser..if not..it aint gonna run..

With or without a "Ballast resistor, you must have the Condenser..
You can check a condenser by "Charging it" across 12V ( or what the tractor has) and watch as both ends of it are touched to "Ground"..if you see or hear a "Snap" or spark..it is ok..

As long as you have "Battery Voltage" to the points, the ignition is ready..assuming Timing and Point gap are correct..

wilson ind · Oct 19, 2018

I agree . My question is why would I need a ballast when the new coil stated in side NO BALLAST REQUIRED?

Janicholson · Oct 19, 2018

You don't. The coil is wound to the correct voltage to run without. Sometimes we don't get back to the comments we make. Jim

BushogPapa · Oct 19, 2018

That was what I meant to imply...with or without, it will operate...

But, 12V on a 6V system will burn up Points pretty fast..

oldproudvet · Oct 19, 2018

Internal ballast resistors on ignition coils are for smaller engines, 4 and 6 cyl ones, lower compression etc. Separate ballast resistors are for larger engines requiring higher cranking voltages thus more voltage drop. If you ran one of these thru a resistor, while starting, you'd have very low voltage to the coil primary windings. Voltage drop while cranking on a large engine can give you only 9 or so volts, then run it thru the resistor and you're in trouble. Ballast resistors have bypass circuits that run battery voltage from the 2nd small terminal on your starter solenoid sending it to the coil primary. Thus you'll find 2 wires on your coil battery or + side. It's only hot while starting. When the solenoid is not energized that terminal is dead. So if your coil (and it usually is stenciled or stamped on the coil housing "internal ballast resistor" you wouldn't use it on your 11:1 Chev 327 of the 60s......

504 · Oct 19, 2018

I have about six tractors around here all on 12v, and all have a resistor,all had them from the factory as best as I can tell.
I ran into a catalog a few years ago that listed a coil that did not require a ballast, turning the page for a different tractor was a coil that did need a ballast. They were the same part number! A ballast will not hurt anything on a tractor that runs what, 2000 rpm. 7000 rpm is a different story.
As a side note,I had a customer bring in a IH Scout with an AMC inline 6 in it. It had been in something like 6 shops in three different states(they moved around some) It would run on two cylinders only,and it did not make any difference which plug wires you pulled off, it would run on two. I stared from scratch and opened the cap and there was no condenser. Put one in and it ran great. He gave me a $50.00 tip. No it was not a factory installed motor.

Bob · Oct 20, 2018

(quoted from post at 17:16:14 10/19/18)
Without exception, any old fashioned Ignition that has "Points, MUST have a condenser..if not..it aint gonna run..

With or without a "Ballast resistor, you must have the Condenser..
You can check a condenser by "Charging it" across 12V ( or what the tractor has) and watch as both ends of it are touched to "Ground"..if you see or hear a "Snap" or spark..it is ok..

As long as you have "Battery Voltage" to the points, the ignition is ready..assuming Timing and Point gap are correct..

"You can check a condenser by "Charging it" across 12V ( or what the tractor has) and watch as both ends of it are touched to "Ground"..if you see or hear a "Snap" or spark..it is ok."

At battery voltage you're sure not gonna hear a "snap", and unless you have exceptional eyes and it's dark your not gonna see a spark either.

Dunno where you got that idea???

On the other hand, an old mechanic's trick was to charge 'em up to a couple hundred Volts with a cap checker, then leave 'em on the bench for an unsuspecting junior mechanic/apprentice to pick up.

Simply AIN'T gonna happen at 6 or 12 Volts, trough.

Geo-TH,In · Oct 20, 2018

Bill,
Electronics is above my pay grade. Need to ask someone with a EE degree.
Bottom line, coil should only be drawing 4 amps. If amps is more, need to add a resistor to limit current.
If you have difficulty starting you need to bypass ballast while starter is engaged. That is old school electronics. It also the way some tractors and cars were wired back in the day before electronic ignition.

testing condneser reply

wilson ind

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BushogPapa

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wilson ind

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Janicholson

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BushogPapa

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oldproudvet

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504

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Bob

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Geo-TH,In

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