carburetor problem on IH 'H'

Flood real easy at starting. Carburetor was just rebuilt. Could it be a float level problem or other advice welcomed.

Yep, float level.

Ah exactly what do you mean flooding at start up. , Are you saying that while cranking with the c hoke full on that when it does not fire right off you are seeing a lot of raw gas leaking out , or are you saying that the gas is running out while sitting with not turning of the engine ?? With up draft carbs they will dump what seams to be a lot of raw gas when you stop cranking if the do not fire . SOOOOooooooo before one dives back into the carb providing the rebuild was done correctly the first time , one must look into the condition of said engine . Lets start off with a compression check and see what the compression at cranking speed , next would be to check and make sure that the manifoold gskt. is not leaking and all bolts are tight ., next would be the conditio0n of the plugs , points wires cap and rotor , then check ing timing . IF your getting low on compression then they get to the point that they will almost suck gas into the combustion chamber but will not fire and as soon as you let off the starter all that gas that was going UP is now coming back down and runs out on the ground . . A dragging starter may turn the engine over but not fast enough to get it toi draw the gas all the way . I do a lot of carb work and just did one for and H and waiting on a guy to drop off one for a 2510 deere now. So take the time and look over what i have layed out for ya here before you dive in to the carb.

Carb just rebuilt but by who?? Was it done correctly?? Was it sent by way of mail or UPS?? What type of float needle was put in?? To many variables as to what and why with out more info. Could be a stuck float or a needle seat not tight or you holding the choke to long etc. etc.

The H's just need a burp of choke when starting cold.

Does it flood if no choke?

(quoted from post at 09:05:58 08/25/18) The H's just need a burp of choke when starting cold.

Does it flood if no choke?

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And quite often that "burp" of choke should not be done until AFTER the engine has actually fired.

Like others said, the carb can only work as well as the rest of the engine works.

True flooding is when the needle valve fails to shut off the fuel when the bowl is full. It will sit and drip gas with the fuel valve on and not running. (Not to be confused with dripping a few drops following a failed start.)

Flooding can be caused by several factors, but a freshly rebuilt carb that floods is usually caused by trash in the needle/seat. It only takes a tiny speck if rust or trash to hold the valve open. If the tank is flaking rust or contaminated, flooding will be an ongoing problem. Be sure the sediment bowl is clean and the screen is in place. Some add an inline filter, but if you do be sure it is a screen type, not pleated paper as they are too restrictive for gravity flow. When connecting the fuel line, I like to open the tank valve and let the line flush before connecting.

Sometimes a dirty needle/seat can be flushed by draining the carb and letting it refill.

On H's and M's, I always set the float lever 1/8 to 3/16 lower than the book says. They still run OK and it eliminates a lot of flooding/overflowing problems.

As an H owner, it is very easy to over choke them.

As stated, I would hold off on the choke during starting, if it does not load up during running, nor leak when shut off, I think it is fine.