OT-mini-van

tomturkey

Well-known Member
OT- Have been having trouble with our 2001 Ford Windstar. When you turn the key, all the dash lights come on, dinger starts dinging, but turn key to start position....nothing. Now I discover if you move the steering wheel some and turn the key, it will start. I suspect either the ignition switch down on the steering shaft or the key lock interlock is worn and needs replacement. Anyone with a similar experience to share some wisdom. It does have a lot of miles and a lot of starts so expecting a wear and tear issue. thanks gobble
 
The actual switch is being moved by the lock. Were it mine and it pestered me or my others, I would take the column apart and decommission the column lock. Jim
 
Most likely the switch. Probably mounted down the column. If the key turns like it always has don't take the top apart. Go to you tube see if you watch a how to.
 
We had very similar issues with an old Nissan van we owned...
Turned out to need a new ignition switch.

Found out for sure when I backed it out of the garage one day. It was running fine... then made a loud click, and it died. Tried to restart it... absolutely nothing, nadda, zippo.

Thankfully I had paused there to add a couple items to my shopping list - so at least it happened at home, not out on the road or while in town.
 
Similar problem few yrs back. Went to re-start my 99 E350 with very low miles. All dash lights on, but starter wasn't getting the memo. No time to troubleshoot, needed the truck. Bought remote starter from nearby parts store and some additional wire for long leads. Wired switch to the starter and I was off. Very easy access for everything but may be different for your front wh dr van. BTW been driving it like that ever since. No one else knows how to start the truck, maybe not a bad thing :)
 
When you turn to start and nothing happens, does the key spring back normally when you let go of it. Do any of the accessories shut down in start pos, radio, HVAC etc, like they normally would when in "start" position" Do you feel the detents in each position of the key/switch?

The ignition switch is not adjustable, it is mounted with two T30 torx bolts on the bottom of the steering column. You will have to remove the lower dash trim panel and metal shield to access the switch. Once ignition switch is off, keep it plugged in and move the metal peg sticking out of it to see if everything works and starts. You can also look up inside the column to see if the linkage is moving all the way forward/back. There is a plastic piece (actuator) buried in the middle of the steering column that is know to break also, this usually doesn't allow any movement at the ignition switch when it breaks, meaning the switch will stay in whatever position it was in when the actuator broke.
 
I forgot something else, are you familiar with the "theft" light, this light should flash on/off every two seconds with key off. If this light is flashing rapidly when you turn the key on then you probably have a problem with the key itself, or the part that reads the key or another problem with the anti-theft system.

If the theft light is flashing and you have another key then try it. If you only have one key and the key is bad, you will have to get 2 new keys cut/programmed. As long as you have 2 good keys (not a clone key) you can program extras on your own.
 
It's very possible there's broken and/or bare wires in the tilt steering column hinge area.
 
A point of information.
Anti-theft systems in most vehicles do NOT disable the starter. They deactivate the fuel pump circuit.

The only anti-theft systems that deactivate the starter are the third party setups that are used by the "buy here pay here" used car lots. Those systems do not make the "theft" light indicate a problem.

One thing that I do not understand is why you answer a different question than the one that was asked? A knowledgeable mechanic would say it was a problem with either the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. Anti-theft does not have anything to do with the problem as described.
 
Thanks everyone for moving me along on this problem. All of us are smarter than one of us so a collaborative effort is appreciated. I am going to start with the ignition switch down on the steering column. See if the peg that inserts into the column is not functioning as it should. Again thanks to all. gobble
 
(quoted from post at 07:29:40 08/25/18) A point of information.
Anti-theft systems in most vehicles do NOT disable the starter. They deactivate the fuel pump circuit.

The only anti-theft systems that deactivate the starter are the third party setups that are used by the "buy here pay here" used car lots. Those systems do not make the "theft" light indicate a problem.

One thing that I do not understand is why you answer a different question than the one that was asked? A knowledgeable mechanic would say it was a problem with either the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. Anti-theft does not have anything to do with the problem as described.


Many vehicles do disable the starter, and this vehicle does that, some even disable both the starter and injectors or other means to disable the engine. This problem could be OEM anti-theft related and a simple observation of the "theft" light will rule that out. It is also possible that there is an aftermarket theft device causing this issue too, in which inspecting the wiring or disabling the theft device might fix it.

The problem with answering different questions is without being there and observing all the symptoms, there is a possibility that the problem could be related to something other than what you assume it may be.
 
I started with simple and easy, changed the ignition switch module, 20 dollars, about an hour including the ride to town for the part. Seems like maybe that has fixed it, as don't have to mess with steering wheel or ever so lightly turn the key. We will see. Again thanks to all. BTW, the lited THEFT signal on the dash never showed any peculiarities. gobble
 

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