Which trailer question

55 50 Ron

Well-known Member
Which brand of trailer would you consider if buying new. Would carry a couple tractors such as JD 60 or IHC Super M and be pulled by ball bumper hitch with a 91 Ford F150, 4 x 4, 5.8 L V8, 6000-7000 lb G.V.W. Want deckover, about 18 ft x 96" (just "hobby" hauling, no commercial use)

Thanks, Ron
 
I bought a PJ trailer a few years back, but bought one with a higher GVWR than what my truck could handle. I sacrificed potential load for extra strength, as we live on many miles of rough, gravel roads.

We lost the PJ in an accident, but was a very nice trailer while we had it.

Two things to watch for. One is, on a newer 16' enclosed trailer, the leaf springs that came on the trailer wouldn't come anywhere near handling rated capacity, so I upgraded to 5,200 lb. springs. And no matter what trailer you buy, make certain it either comes with a jack that can handle a loaded trailer, or that you have ample other jacks that can fill in when needed.
 
Well you really should just go ahead and get a heavier GVW trailer. 6000-7000 LBS. will not be heavy enough for the JD 60. They can weight that much by themselves so when you deduct the trailer weight your over loading the trailer. Also 3500 lbs. axles are not really heavy enough for anything but cars. I know you do not need or want a 14K trailer so look at a 10K trailer. The two 5K axles will be a better fit and not much more money than the 5-6K trailers cost. I would also recommend getting brakes on both axles. A lot of the cheaper trailers only have brakes on one axle in that weight class. Also dual jacks are nice too. Most just have one in the center so unhooking loaned is not a good idea. I also had them put extra stake pockets on each side and a winch plate on the front. The dual jacks, winch plate, and the extra stake pockets only added $350 to the cost but I think make the trailer much better to use. Paid $4000 for it 3 years ago. Only took 3 weeks to have it built and delivered.

I have a Lamar 14K 7 1/2 ft. wide 20 ft. long, bumper trailer. It is not a deck over but I really like it. They make deck overs too but I wanted the lower load height so hauling cars is easier.
 
We have a corn pro and a jerry james. The Corn Pro is solider and shakes you less. It has rubber axles. Both are 20 plus 5. The Corn Pro is a deck over and the Jerry James is lower between the tires. I've been taking it to tractor pulls. Lower is better getting weights off of. But tractor can't be over 80 in. Wide.
 
Either of those tractors sound like more than you would want on a bumper pull behind a 1991 F150. Those older F150 trucks were not up to the ratings on todays F150
 
Mostly good advice here, except for the jacks. If you can haul on a single ball, why not Jack on a single Jack? 2 jacks will put a twis in the trailer of it is on uneven ground where a single won't. And 2 jacks will be harder to crank than a single because they tend to bind between them. I have taken many twin jacks off and replaced them with singles and had happier customers over the years. And only trailers under 7k rated can have no brakes on one axle and that is only legal in a few states now.
 
I may not have stated the weight numbers properly. The 6000-7000 lbs is what is listed in my Ford truck manual and identified by a letter in the VIN referring to brake system and GVWR class.

I didn't intend it to be taken as the trailer rating. Hope I didn't confuse by not asking correctly. I'm a bit of a novice at this.

Thanks
 
Look for good paint mostly as poor paint is a trailer killer. And I recommend staying away from powder coat as I've seen a lot of trouble with that on trailers. Also make sure the cross members are no further apart than 18", some cheaper trailers go as far as 24" and that will cause broken boards hauling tractors. Otherwise you will have to decide between light weight which is easier to pull and heavier which will be more durable. If you will stay within the rated capacity then a lighter trailer like PJ is a good buy, but if you will be stretching the capacity you will want a heavier more durable trailer which will also pull harder.
 
Also put a weight distributing hitch on trailer. With it I can handle 10,000 lbs behind my Expedetion. Your F150 will be fine.
 
I agree also.

When I was in sales, the most consistent mistake I saw buyers make was underestimating the capacity they needed in a tow vehicle. They'd look at half tons when they should have been looking at 3/4. Or look at 3/4 when they should have been looking at one tons.

As a salesman, you couldn't win. If you tried to sell someone up to what they really needed, they'd accuse you of trying to bump the sale for a larger commission. And if you sold them what they wanted instead of what they needed and it wasn't up to the job, they'd come back at you for that, also.
 
PJ trailer makes 2 low profile bumper pull deck overs. One is a 6" channel iron frame 14,000 lb. and 18 foot weighs 3,300lbs.. The other is a 8" I beam beam frame and a 18 Foot weighs around 3.000 lbs.. I have a PJ 8"I beam !4,000lb. with 21 Foot deck and is 102" wide and weighs 4,200 lbs. with spare tire and toolbox. Empty you don't even know your pulling it and loaded it tracks great.
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It's a 97 GMC K1500 4X4 with 3/4 rear springs with air bags. I now pull it with a 95 Ford F Super Duty. The larger truck handles the load so much better and more braking than the GMC.
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The PJ trailer I had was a 20' bumper pull, lo-pro deckover, but no beaver tail. Also, my ramps slid up into the trailer. If I had it to do over again, I'd get one like yours with the external ramps and beaver tail. I had a 3/4-ton gasser (454ci) pulling mine, so never did load to rated capacity.
 
I wish I had got the two jack stands instead of the single one. I have the leg on mine that is adjustable. I also carry blocking on trailer and truck that you can through under a leg to help level trailer . I would get two like one in picture if I bought a new trailer.
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My F8 PJ came with 10,000lb. jack and when I ordered it I had them put a 12,000 lb. 2 speed jack on it.
 
I recently bought a Corn Pro trailer. A very well built trailer. The quality stands out when side by side with other trailers on the road. Very Happy with my Corn Pro trailer.
 

2X avoid powder coat. Once you get a chip in it the moisture gets under it and it lifts and blows away incredibly fast. There are a few manufacturers offering paint as an option, and a few that offer powder coat over primer which is good.
 
Either tractor without figuring weight of trailer you would be above total legal weight allowed for truck,trailer and load for that truck. How far would you be going? I have a tow dolly that was made just for the narrow front tractors of that size.If you are not going to be traveling more than 25 or so miles from home that would be your safest way to go provided you have god rear tires on the tractor. And that you are only traveling at under 25MPH.
 
(quoted from post at 00:48:10 07/08/18) Which brand of trailer would you consider if buying new. Would carry a couple tractors such as JD 60 or IHC Super M and be pulled by ball bumper hitch with a 91 Ford F150, 4 x 4, 5.8 L V8, 6000-7000 lb G.V.W. Want deckover, about 18 ft x 96" (just "hobby" hauling, no commercial use)

Thanks, Ron

If you are going very far at all, you need a heavier truck before you worry about the trailer. I used to haul a 4000 pound tractor with a 1990 Ford F150 4X4, with the 5.8 engine and automatic transmission, using a 16 foot trailer. It is not enough truck even for that small of a tractor. I once hauled a JD D with it. That was scary.
 
With a 27 year old 1/2 ton truck that is undersized to haul those tractors, I would postpone buying a trailer at this time. A trailer that matches the limited capabilities of your truck will be too light to haul those tractors and a trailer heavy enough to haul those tractors will be too heavy for your truck to pull safely or legally.

If the tractors are road worthy, either tractor can be driven 50 miles in half a day or 100 miles in a full day.
 

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