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heh Brain Trust; hot rivets or weld

B

bradley martin

Well-known Member
I am replacing the rear rims on a recently acquired 732 Case.( yes, 52 years of calcium did them in!) The rims are 16x30 deep well type. There are 2 drive lugs inch and a half x 2" long, 1/2 thick that fit into a notch in the cast centers to prevent the rim from slipping on the wheel should the clamps that secure the rim come loose. These drive lugs must be transferred to the new rims. The originals are secured with 3 3/8 rivets in each drive lug. I am wondering if it would be alright to weld these to the new rims or would that possibly compromise the strength of the rim? If I do weld, would you just weld the ends or ends and the 1 side between the two drivers? ( there is a gap of 1 and a half " between the 2 lugs). The big problem I foresee with rivets is handling the awkward things( 100 lbs) square over a bucking bar, getting the hot rivets inserted and then peening the tails. Even clamping the drive lugs in position is difficult because the deep well is 8" in from the bead rim. It would have been nice had Underverth done this, but I suspect that the various manufacturers used different size drive lugs.
 
As long as the drive lugs are STEEL and not cast iron, welding should be no problem, as JD says, there's a sorts of that sort of things welded to rims on newer tractors. I would DOUBT that they are cast iron, but considering they were originally riveted, I would think that would be a least a possibility.
 
No, Bob, they appear to be plain flat iron, perhaps cold rolled. I haven't dismounted the old tires yet but I am quite certain they are not cast. Rivets would be easy enough to do in a factory setting with the proper jigs and hydraulic riveters, etc but they would be tough to do in my farm shop. The bit of research I did online kind of lead me to think that rivets are likely stronger in that application. Of course, if the clamps are properly torqued, the rim would never slip anyway.
 
Here is the wheel rim style. The clamps draw the rim against the cast wheel. lots of holding power. I would just weld them in place. Your clamps should keep the rim from slipping anyway.
Loren
a272700.jpg

a272701.jpg
 
" The bit of research I did online kind of lead me to think that rivets are likely stronger in that application."


My green 4020 has similar "stop blocks" and lugs, and the "stop blocks" are welded to the rim from the factory. Quite a few more ponies there, and I've never heard of an issue with them.
 
What tractor are those wheels and rims on, Loren? With 8 clamps, they must be 34" tires. My 6 speed 930 has the 34" tires on deep well rims and 8 clamps, but they are nonadjustable hubs. My 8 speed 930 has double bevel rims with the adjustable hubs. The 730 rims I asked about only use 6 clamps. There certainly was a lot of tire, rim, hub and axle option available!
 
You don't want to heat the rivets if you do go that route. They will be loose in the hole, which is the purpose of the rivet to be tight in the hole. Yes they will be tight till they cool. Then there will be a slight bit of clearance in the hole. The peened end is just to smooth the excess metal out. The reason for rivets is they are swedged tight in the hole as posed to a bolt that gets smaller as it it stretched by the tightening.
 
(quoted from post at 20:46:19 07/07/18) You don't want to heat the rivets if you do go that route. They will be loose in the hole, which is the purpose of the rivet to be tight in the hole. Yes they will be tight till they cool. Then there will be a slight bit of clearance in the hole. The peened end is just to smooth the excess metal out. The reason for rivets is they are swedged tight in the hole as posed to a bolt that gets smaller as it it stretched by the tightening.
Click to expand...
Millions of rivets were driven red hot in building construction and other places,
 
As has been noted, new rims come with welded stop blocks. They can be one long piece as well, don't need to be two piece. Have one of each on my MM U, and welded blocks on my GVI. Not a bad idea to weld all the way around. The rim is mild steel, and your stop block can also be mild steel. unc
 
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