Hesston 560

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Auto sequence box delete I bought this thing last fall to
replace a new Holland 855 that turned its apron chain into a
pretzel 🥨 and I could not justify spending 2500$ on a new
apron set minus the tubes which about 20 got destroyed when
the thing exploded . So I bought this old hesston 560 in non
running condition not knowing how much electrical was on
one of these things well I?ve been a quest to get the thing
running it has a self contained hydraulic system that runs
every thing on the machine the tractor supply?s power from
the pto to run the pump then there are two brains 🧠 one on
the tractor control panel and one on the baler that are
supposed to make the thing work when it was new it was
designed so all the operator had to do was drive the tractor
then when the bale reached the size you want you flipped the
auto start switch then the baler would wrap the bale open the
tail gate run the bale kicker and then close the gate all buy
itself well that no longer works so With my trusty power probe
I tested each function of the baler and found that it works fine
by powering each solenoid on the hydraulic control valve so
now I?m in the process of getting rid of both brains because
one or both is malfunctioning and I want to simplify the
operation of this baler and get rid of all future problems with
electronic garbage you have to stop to warp the bale and eject
it anyway so it?s not like it will make the thing any more
inconvenient to use having to flip a couple of switches . There
is a guy on eBay who has made a control panel to bypass all
the garbage as well but I thought i could make my own so
that?s what I am doing hope to have it running tomorrow
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I helped a friend redo a NH 848 with a couple old style starter solenoids and toggle switches.Probably reversing switches like are on a hydraulic tailgate would make the job real easy.
You might be able to use a winch control switch.Surplus Center has a lot of things like that.
 
I think they are the same. My old Case 8465A looks identical to the Hesston. I bought a Hesston to use for parts for the Case and so far everything on it exchanges.
 
I had a 565A that burned. I bought a CaseIH 8465 and never switched the monitor out of the tractor. Ran it for 3 years that way. Who ever bought either baler was in for a shock. The burned Heston would have shown 200 bales and the Case, which was nearly new when I got it, and I put 12000 bales through it, would have shown about 30,000 bales.
 
The nice thing is there is already electromagnetic solenoids on the valve block on the baler I?ve just got to send em power at the right time
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The same baler was sold under the New Idea name. The solenoids on the valve block use both 12, and 10 volts. I think the manual kit on ebay still requires the use of the brain box (it just replaces the monitor in the tractor). On our 560 we sent the boxes to, ag express electronics, they charged $75.00 per box to check them, and do minor repair, should they any major repairs they will give you a price on the cost for repair. Well worth the $150 plus shipping to have them checked out.

Our 560 wraps slow because it came with only one twine arm, but its ok for what we use it for.
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I emailed about the control box on eBay and replaces both the auto sequencing box and the monitor on the tractor just like I did here except I kept the box on the tractor for the switches and also so I can run the bale shape lights there is a board full of diodes in both boxes that are now gone . The manual shows 12 volts for all solenoids
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It lives for the first time since October the baler runs under its own power without me manually cycling each solenoid with my power probe on the valve stack . Need to get a belt lacer and resize all of the belts they actually all need replaced but I?m going to run them for now .
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Shear pins are gone so right now it just flops around . Hesston
also thought it would be a good idea to use a chain driven belt
guide about mid production then realized that was a crappy
idea too. that shaft is bent so I?m trying to figure out how to
make it stationary or just take the drive off and let it float so it?s
not always fighting the belts until I can design something
better/ get a new shaft
 
Looks like you have pre three last digit serial number 560. The after last three digit serial number 560 had upgrades, better hydraulic pump, etc.
 
The early ones don?t have the powered belt guide and neither
do the latter ones . We?ll get er running at least got it so it will
run No more brains no more computers to ever worry about
again I?ve got all the belts out of it now to re sized and then I
will try to straighten the shaft or buy a new one it?s and
octagonal shaft 236 from cnh . I?ll have probably 3500$ into
this one including the purchase price before it will ever think of
making hay I could and should have bought one that was
running lesson learned do your research before signing the
papers and the salesman will tell you and thing to make the
sale . Oh will think of all the fun I?ve had &#128514;.
 
The later updated model 560 has the single pressure gauge in place of the two pressure gauges yours have. For $3500 you will have a good round baler, if you want a lot newer round baler $3500 would only be decent down payment. Something else is to keep an eye open for another 560 cheap for spare parts that doesn't have a monitor, without a monitor they can be had pretty cheap especially if you find the one with the single pressure gauge instead of the one with two pressure gauges (that's the more updated 560).
 

This is one of the things that keeps me from buying a newer baler- all those electronics in something that lives outside in a vibrating, hot, dusty environment. Can't think of anything more likely to kill something electronic. I'd love something a lot faster than my ancient old Hesston 5500, but I'm simply scared to death of sinking big dollars into an electronic nightmare that I can't even begin to fix.
 

Their out there, my old Hesston 5545 only had a full bale alarm and electric tie.
My uncles Hesston 540 only has the full bale alarm.
The NH 640 I had had a alarm that signaled when it started wrapping twine and when it stopped so I could dump the bale.
The 2012 NH BR7070 I have now has the same alarm along with bale shaper graphs that I pay little attention to.
 
(quoted from post at 05:27:42 07/02/18)
This is one of the things that keeps me from buying a newer baler- all those electronics in something that lives outside in a vibrating, hot, dusty environment. Can't think of anything more likely to kill something electronic. I'd love something a lot faster than my ancient old Hesston 5500, but I'm simply scared to death of sinking big dollars into an electronic nightmare that I can't even begin to fix.




We still have one of those, I think if the tension spring were replaced with hydraulic cylinder system to keep a constant pressure on the belts it would make a nice bale that wouldn't squat. Not that it matters to the cows, but more to the person you bale hay for other people.
 
Ran a 2015 new Holland 640 last year the only electronics on
it was the monitor and which I ran 2000 bales through it and
never had the monitor hooked up for one of those bales . This
baler is about a 1989 and it was just a case of somebody
trying to reinvent the wheel
 
I agree for 4000$ you don?t buy much the belts will need
replaced soon but I?m going to run them as long as possible
the way they are, going to resize and relace them tonight .
New belts are almost 3000$ from shoups so I?ll be about 7 or
8000$ in the machine but it should be ready to go for a long
time after that .
 
Does anybody know the length the belts should be in this thing ? Shoup shows 570x7 or 572x 6.5 my belts are 550?
 
The two outer belts are 6.496" X 573.922", part number 700708740 (narrow). The six inners are 6.969" X 570.237", part number 700707162 (according to the parts book).
 
You can buy one 300' roll, and a 100' roll, cut them, and lace them. But its not cheap, we find some still good used belts, and splice them in as needed with no troubles.
 
(quoted from post at 01:09:12 07/03/18) The two outer belts are 6.496" X 573.922", part number 700708740 (narrow). The six inners are 6.969" X 570.237", part number 700707162 (according to the parts book).



These are what's required according to the serial number of your baler as per the parts book.
 
(quoted from post at 15:54:33 07/02/18)
(quoted from post at 05:27:42 07/02/18)
This is one of the things that keeps me from buying a newer baler- all those electronics in something that lives outside in a vibrating, hot, dusty environment. Can't think of anything more likely to kill something electronic. I'd love something a lot faster than my ancient old Hesston 5500, but I'm simply scared to death of sinking big dollars into an electronic nightmare that I can't even begin to fix.




We still have one of those, I think if the tension spring were replaced with hydraulic cylinder system to keep a constant pressure on the belts it would make a nice bale that wouldn't squat. Not that it matters to the cows, but more to the person you bale hay for other people.

Mine don't squat. In fact sometimes I have a hard time getting the spear into them. I just wish it tied faster, or better, used net wrap. Someday I'll get a newer model.
 
I think I can get these belts to work I mean they came out of it
i just don?t understand the 20 inch length difference?
 

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