Fertilizer Question

nrowles

Member
I need to put out some fertilizer. For what I need, I can either get 19-19-19 and pay $130 or I can get 10-10-10 and pay $170. Is there a reason I would want to buy 2x the product (19 vs 10) and pay more and get the 10-10-10? Is there more risk of burn with 19? Is it easier to get better coverage with 10? It seems I could save some money and time by getting 19, so why get 10?
 
need more info than that, what is the plan of attack? on field, on grass, on garden, what are you fertilzing? soil sample? rate of application?
 
You need a soil test if you want specific results. As for the coverage that is not an issue the numbers reflect the N P K in the fertilizer.
 
(quoted from post at 06:21:31 06/27/18) need more info than that, what is the plan of attack? on field, on grass, on garden, what are you fertilzing? soil sample? rate of application?

ok. I thought my question was generic. Here are the specifics. I based my question on a soil test I did for my yard grass. It stated to apply 430lb 10-10-10 per acre. I'm sure this will change a bit once I do a soil test for my food plots for the fall. Clover, Chickory, Brassicas. End August / Beginning of September I am going to plant these in different locations with fertilizer.

I was just trying to get a general 10 vs 19 answer but I guess it's not that simple. In my mind the 10 vs 19 is just the amount being applied, but I could be wrong and that's why I asked.
 
Ok, let me start over. Forget everything else I've posted. I'm trying to gain a basic understanding of fertilizer and not be technical at this point. I had a soil test done on my yard grass. It said I could apply 430lb 10-10-10 but made no mention of 19-19-19. Is there any reason why I can't apply 225lb of 19-19-19? Is there anything I need to consider here? It seems like a simple adjustment of the amount of fertilizer used.
 
your thinking is correct that you just need to adjust the rate of coverage, but you'll get better coverage with the 10-10-10...but probably never tell the difference. for the money i'd go with the 19-19-19 and adjust the rate.
 
(quoted from post at 09:50:34 06/27/18) Ok, let me start over. Forget everything else I've posted. I'm trying to gain a basic understanding of fertilizer and not be technical at this point. I had a soil test done on my yard grass. It said I could apply 430lb 10-10-10 but made no mention of 19-19-19. Is there any reason why I can't apply 225lb of 19-19-19? Is there anything I need to consider here? It seems like a simple adjustment of the amount of fertilizer used.

Seems right to me. 10-10-10 is 30% useful and 70% filler and crap. 19-19-19 is 57% useful and only 43% filler and crap. You only care about getting enough NPK to the soil so it seems that you are correct. If not maybe someone else will explain why not.

As to burning, I don't know how dangerous 19-19-19 is on lawn grass but I presume you can't just pile it on like you can 10-10-10.
 
I suspect there is a lot more to the "math" than the calculations you are making. It couldn't be quite that simple I don't think. I see
some fertilizers for sale with zeros in the formulas so a guy might ask, why would I ever buy that? I'm sure that someone that is selling it
(a pro and not a store clerk) could hopefully explain how this all works.
 
did u ever think that in some areas the one of those types of fert might not be available. we use to use alot of 18-46-0 but it was replaced here by 10-
52-0. same thing in liquid comes in 10-34-0. adjust to your needs. grass fert. is a waste in my book!!!
 
Short answer is that both have the same proportions of N-P-K just more inert matter in the 10-10-10. Just adjust the application rate according to the component requirements (total pounds of N-P-K needed divided by pounds of N-P-K in the formulation you want to use).
 
(quoted from post at 05:56:26 06/27/18) I need to put out some fertilizer. For what I need, I can either get 19-19-19 and pay $130 or I can get 10-10-10 and pay $170. Is there a reason I would want to buy 2x the product (19 vs 10) and pay more and get the 10-10-10? Is there more risk of burn with 19? Is it easier to get better coverage with 10? It seems I could save some money and time by getting 19, so why get 10?

You sure didn't get your question answered very well. You are correct that you are paying $130 for 19% or $170 for 10%. There may be a slightly higher risk of burn with the 19% but not if you apply the same total nitrogen in pounds per acre. I routinely apply granulated 46-0-0 to bermudagrass fields with no burn. You get foliage burn when you over apply fertilizer. If you have a soil sample and follow the recommendations you will not get any burn. Don't apply when there is no chance of rain for thirty days: some of the nitrogen will boil off laying in the sun on top of the ground.

You are correct, it is easier to get better coverage with more volume (less concentration for the same actual n-p-k applied). You can also mix concentrated fertilizer with sand to achieve the same results.
 
First of all it doesn't matter how much fertilizer you put down if your pH is off. If the pH is off the nutrients get tied up in the soil and the plant cannot easily uptake what you put out regardless of it is triple 10 or triple 19. I have this issue on a field I use that is typically wet and the pH is in the mid 5's. I stopped wasting money on granular fertilizer and feed via foliage until I can get that pH up around 6 - which will take a few years.

Go take a look at a bag of Scotts fertilizer. You will see high nitrogen numbers like 32. If Scotts is applied correctly it won't burn your lawn. If you apply triple 19 correctly, it also should not burn your lawn. However, you may not need all of the PK depending on your soil test that triple 19 would supply.
 
(quoted from post at 07:09:25 06/27/18) did u ever think that in some areas the one of those types of fert might not be available. we use to use alot of 18-46-0 but it was replaced here by 10-
52-0. same thing in liquid comes in 10-34-0. adjust to your needs. grass fert. is a waste in my book!!!

We have bermudagrass and it responds very well to nitrogen application, much more hay for the money.

As far as fertilizing a lawn, I would not presume to tell anyone it was a waste for them to improve the appearance of their place, whether it was fertilizer on the lawn or paint on a concrete porch.
 
Well I figure your getting about twice the amount of fertilizer for about the same money. I would figure on a mix of 100-100-100 you would be getting 100% of NPK with no fillers. My 2cents, your money.
 

nrowles, it is too bad that so many people don't take the time to read a whole post, LOL, but you do have your answer. I would certainly go with the bargain, and though the N application rate recommended by your test is higher than what I would use at one time, I think that it is probably typical for lawn application.
 
What is this for?
Here's another term I never heard of. "Need to put out some fertilizer". Must be a regional thing.
 
nrowles The 430 lbs. of 10-10-10 per acre sounds about right for that mixture. To your original question. 430 LBS of 10-10-10 would be 43 lbs of N, 43 lbs. of P, and 43 lbs. of K plus 314 lbs. of filler. So all you would need to do was divide 43/19 equals 2.26 multiply that times 100 and you have 226 lbs./acre of 19-19-19 would be equal to the original 430 lbs./acre of 10-10-10.

The only reason for the price difference is you use different base products to make triple 10 and triple 19. Some of them cost more than others. Triple 19 uses more pelletized lime for the filler and this cost much less than fertilizer.

The common base fertilizers in the mid west are:

potash 0-0-60
DAP 18-46-0
Urea 60-0-0
MAP 11-52-0
Pelletize lime is the usual filler
 
The 'zeros' are in some lawn fertilizer mixes because there are times when your lawn only needs nitrogen and does not need more potassium or phosphorous. These fertilizer mixes are designed for those times and can be produced and sole at a lower price without those nutrients.

Phosphorous is especially bad for causing algae blooms when it runs off into neighboring streams and ponds.

I don't know if you remember but a few years ago most of the laundry detergent makers stopped putting phosphorous into their detergent formulations. Think the government forced them to do that because it made the detergents less effective.
 
I can't answer your question but I will say just keep buying it! The company I work for can make between 8000 and 10000 tons of MAP and DAP every 24 hours 7 days a week 365
days a year and we have three plants here in Florida . Y'all keep buying it and I can retire in about five years
 
Triple 19 means that for every 100 lbs. of fertilizer you apply you will get 19 pounds each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash. Triple ten means ten pounds of each nutrient for every 100 pounds of fertilizer applied.
 

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