Pulley removal

Bkpigs · Jun 25, 2018

Trying to remove this pulley from a Hesston 1120. That wedge locks the pulley. The other one I was able to beat the pulley back and the wedge just came right out. This one I have heated and sprayed PB and beat the living crap out of it. No luck. I tried prying the wedge out with no luck. Any tips before I spend the big bucks and bring the gear box to the dealer?

roy prins · Jun 25, 2018

hey BKpiggs -- would it be better if You welded something on that wedge pin -- something You could really get a hold of ? By welding on it
You would get the pin real hot -- let it cool for 15 minutes and pull it out -- pull straight -- good luck! Roy

Janicholson · Jun 25, 2018

Slide hammer after heating the key red then cooling. Jim

Russ from MN · Jun 25, 2018

Yes, I would weld a good piece of all-thread onto the wedge, then use a piece of pipe and a strongback to pull it with the threads. I would hold the outer end of the all-thread with a pipe wrench to prevent it from twisting off. If it does break off then I would start drilling!

JMS/.MN · Jun 25, 2018

Candlewax as it cools. I have a slide hammer, maybe an OTC- has the same threads as a vice grip. Works pretty well to put them together.

rustred · Jun 25, 2018

funny how u got so much sticking out to work with. i would weld a 1/2 " nut to it then yank it out with a slide hammer. spraying stuff on things like that is useless. even if you have to get a pipe to fit over it and give it a good wack on pulley.

Pete in Holland MI · Jun 25, 2018

Cut a piece of tight fitting hardwood to wedge under the exposed key, and rest on the inner rim of the other side of
the pulley, and clamp in place. This'll support the key, keeping it from bending, while you drive a wedge in
sideways.

bradley martin · Jun 25, 2018

That is called a " GiB key". They can easily be removed IF there is room behind the sheave to drive the sheave inward on the shaft, thus freeing
the tapered GiB key. The big problem arises when the sheave or sprocket is improperly installed leaving no space between the bearing and the
sheave. A piece of pipe large enough to slip over the shaft, with a slot cut in it to avoid the key aids greatly in driving the sheave inward
and freeing the key. Heat does help on really stubborn ones, but usually is not required. Hesston used a lot of those keys in various
applications. If there is no room to drive the sheave inwards, you will likely end up having to cut it off.

Bob · Jun 25, 2018

There's nothing mechanical that's any easier to deal with than a "gib head key", but a lot of guys PANIC at the sight of one.

Here's one way to pull 'em out, I've got a better way, but don't have a photo at hand to post!

<img src = "http://image.aimoo.com/ForumImages/a42a6e43-21e1-4d2f-a32e-f0543db1417d/080803_090825_80607560.jpg">

The "O"verpriced "T"ool "C"ompany sells a commercial version of the slide hammer too Vice Grip adapter.

<img src = "https://images.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/images/Product_Images/OTC/OTC-205378.jpg">

bigbob1939 · Jun 25, 2018

Weld a 1/2 or 3/4 nut to the key, that will get it good and hot. Then use 2 crow bars one on each side under the nut and pry it out.

Rich'sToys · Jun 25, 2018

Is that the same kind of key that holds the flywheel on a John Deere no. 5 mower? I've got one of those I'd like to get out. And after you get it out, how do you put the new one in--just drive it in place?

bradley martin · Jun 26, 2018

When you install it, be sure there is at least .25 to .40 inches of shaft showing behind the pulley. A piece of 3/8 keystock works. Then drive
the gib key home, before removing spacer. Required space will depend on belt or chain alignment, but 1/4 inch is minimum to allow for easy
removal.

MarkB_MI · Jun 26, 2018

Judging from the amount of paint left on your pulley, I'd say a lot more heat is required.

You don't mention using a puller. I would try to find a puller big enough to do the job.

Bkpigs · Jun 26, 2018

There is space behind the pulley. My BIL is coming over tonight to help. Hopefully heating while beating will work. If not, looks like I will love on to welding/drilling out the gib key.

BarnyardEngineering · Jun 26, 2018

Look up "shopdogsam" on youtube. He'll learn ya on how to deal with gib keys.

bradley martin · Jun 26, 2018

You can't just pull it, Mark. Both the gib key and the keyway in the pulley are tapered. Pulling will only lock it tighter....that is the purpose of the gib key.

Olliejunkie · Jun 26, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:17:53 06/26/18) You can't just pull it, Mark. Both the gib key and the keyway in the pulley are tapered. Pulling will only lock it tighter....that is the purpose of the gib key.

Never used one but here's a pic. Drive it between the pulley and key. This one was on eBay.

bradley martin · Jun 26, 2018

Make up a piece of pipe like I described below. Place it over the shaft against the pulley, with a a lot cut to accommodate the gib key. One of
you hold the pipe and the other one swing the heaviest sledge hammer you can find. One good wallop and it should be loose! Good luck.

Brown Swiss · Jun 27, 2018

This is a couple days old, but if you weld the gib key to the shaft spot weld will do, then use a big slide hammer it will move and the grind the weld and pull out the
key!

Bkpigs · Jun 27, 2018

Brown Swiss, glad you responded it made it easy to find to update this

I had the BIL come over helped. I got the shaft out of the gear box and placed the other end of the shaft on a piece of steel on a 6x6 block of wood (to protect the concrete). Then we took a piece of square tubing with 3/8" thick wall and beat the pulley down with a sledge hammer. The square tubing worked great because it left room for the gib key to go up one corner. After the pulley was free from the gib key it was still a bear to remove. The gib key was definitely seized on the shaft. Then we smoothed the shaft down and used a puller to remove the pulley. All the bearings and races are getting replaced so I hope I never see the inside of this gear box again!

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Pulley removal

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