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Update on injection pump

V

VADAVE

Well-known Member
I got the pump back Friday, Sorry this is the first I have been near a computer, and it looks great. Should at $1000+; Actually looks like they took out most of the guts and put in new stuff. Only question is the note on the new one says to use non-petroleum grease when installing the umbrella seals, not having any can I use white grease or WD-40? My plan is to use only enough to make the shaft slick to the touch. Then hold it with one hand, guide the shaft with the other and put them together. After that its all downhill.
But the question just how important is the non-petroleum grease? White grease or WD-40 work? After all the shaft is sitting in diesel.
 
What are you working on? I would always install the shaft and seals before I put the pump on the tractor. Questions, my e-mail is open. J.
 
They want non petroleum lubricant so the seals do not start to soften when your installing them. I use dish soap. Cheap easy and does not harm any seal/rubber cups. DO not use WD-40 or any other penetrating oil. They all will soften the cup seals. Silicone lube would work too. It just dries pretty fast.
 
Some tractors you can not easily get the pump drive shaft off to install it as a complete unit very easily.
 
The best non petroleum grease I have used is Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease made by SYNCO. It is supposed to be safe for o-rings.
That stock number is for three ounces, but it comes in several larger sizes including a 14.1 oz tub. I checked YT, but they do not list it.

What you want is Super Lube 41140 synthetic grease in the 400 lb. drum. They actually have several different formulations.
 
Main thing is to use plenty of slick lube on the seals and pilot tube bore. Be careful when the rear seal enters the tube so it does not fold over. Trick to know if it's on right, slide the pump back and forth once it's over both seals, if it slides easily, rear seal is OK. If pump needs force, it's folded over. Pumps with steel pilot tubes have a more gradual taper, and seldom fold the seal. Brass tubes have a steep taper, making the seal enter harder if not careful. I modify the brass tube taper on pumps in for repair before epoxying in place similar to the steel tube angle so the seal enters much easier.
 
If you spent 1000+ plus bucks on a Roosa pump they should be willing to come install it for you! If you pulled it off, left it on your tailgate to fall off going down the highway to be run over by a dump truck, most pump builders could still rebuild it for less. A common core pump cost 200-250 bucks , then 500 to repair it. That's 700-750. Where did the rest go? Amazing what some shops charge. Al
 
We're used to the "land of taxes".
Or else stupid to stay here.
Problem is, by the time you've aged enough to realize you would be better off elsewhere, it's too late, you're too committed!
 
I feel the same way about living here in the great "Mitten". I stayed cause it would have broken my folks heart if I pulled out. Now its to late, I have to much invested. Not sure I have the energy to sort through 35 years of "stuff". Al
 
Here in Virginia there are very few places that repair injection pumps and the places that do just charge high prices because they can get it.I don't deal with them.
 
Hi, that price seems high to me. I had a brand new one installed on my tractor for $ 700. Adjusted and all!
Ed Will Oliver BC
 
1) non petroleum lube = butter. Saying what something SHOULD have cost without knowing what had to be done is irresponsible at the least. You can "overhaul" an engine for $xxx.xx but there is a vast difference between putting sleeve kits and a gasket set in, and having to replace a bad crank, reground cam, oil pump, etc., etc., as well.
 
I'm curious where it's believed oil products are bad for the drive shaft seals, when the front one is in oil all the time. I've never in over forty years seen the front seal swelled yet on any pump I've torn down in for repair. Those seals are pretty tough, and can wear grooves in the brass pilot tube over time. Stanadyne assembly lube, called Syncut is very slick, compares to STP or Motor Honey. Use your favorite product, slicker the better.
 
Lets just say in 35 years I have rebuilt one, maybe even two Roosa pumps. I guess my average would be about one a week. I have NEVER built one that cost 1000 bucks. Replacing the head or weight assembly n all. Yes, some pumps are rare and parts cost more, but wasn't this pump from a Oliver? Just telling someone they need something special to lube the pilot tube should wave a red flag. These pumps were designed 60 years ago. It isn't rocket science. Any slippery lube will work. In the field I have used oil off the dip stick,or some grease from a grease gun. Heck spit on It, bet that would even work. It gets diesel fuel on it as soon as you try to bleed it. You just need some lube to make the lip seals slip in. Al
 
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