breaking sod before tilling

Bob in SD · May 16, 2018

I was going to title this "my drug problem", as in the tiller done drug me all over the garden w/out actually tilling much. I tried the highest (least deep) setting, it scratched and didn't yank me too much, but didn't till much either. Coming back over the same ground with the next setting it would grab and drag me across the garden. This has been tilled before, many years ago, but has gone to grass/sod lately.

Last week my local Runnings Farm and Fleet had a "middle buster" plow on sale, but it was recommended for lower HP tractors (I forget the number, and their online listings are down right now). I've got a 4-cylinder Ford 4000 which TractorData says is 40-ish drawbar HP and a gas 3020 which they say is 60-ish at the drawbar. Will I destroy the plow with too much HP if it doesn't catch on a big rock or something? Rocks are pretty rare in this area.

I also have a 7 foot box blade with 6 scarifiers/rippers. I can adjust them to 3-4 inches below the blade. Would dragging this through a few times and then tilling across that do anything? Any downside to that? I did that once before an convinced myself it helped, but I'm not so sure at this point.

In the past I've borrowed a friends cultivator and/or plow and the cultivator ripped it up pretty good. I may try to do that again. Is the cultivator (several metal leaf springs curving into the ground) the best option?

Thanks,

jimg.allentown · May 16, 2018

You need a tiller with counter rotating tines. That will break up sod without dragging you all over the garden.

Charlie M · May 16, 2018

I have one with the rear counter rotating tines and I'm convinced they can dig concrete.LOL A front tine unit is useless in hard ground.

Bob in SD · May 16, 2018

That was the plan, and I was all set to dump $800 on a new tiller, but I got a deal on this old TroyBilt. Thinking if I till it once or twice a year it'll be fine after the first time.

jimg.allentown · May 16, 2018

Now you know why I say that the Troy-Bilt tillers are built wrong. Tines go the wrong way.

Bob in SD · May 16, 2018

This is a rear-tine, older TroyBilt (It's a "Bronco", if anybody can tell me where that fits in their lineup I'd appreciate it. 17 inch wide (tires, tines 16 inch wide), B&S Intek, pre MTD buyout.

Ground is a little wet if anything.

Traditional Farmer · May 16, 2018

You need to get some sort of ripper.I use a 3pt JD ripper from the 50's,it'll rip the soil 8 or 10 inches deep and makes tilling a breeze.Doesn't pay to put wear and tear on a tiller
when you can rip the soil with almost no wear and tear on the ripper.

ADB-Ia · May 16, 2018

Your opinion is the opposite of mine. I have a troybilt reverse tine tiller that I've only used a couple times. I hate it. I had a forward rotating rear tine tiller before that I liked much better. Now I have a tiller on the back of my lawn tractor and that lets me till and the only wear and tear on me is on the seat of my pants. Much better.

Bob in SD · May 16, 2018

So, you're saying something like the link, instead of a middle-buster "plow" shaped thing?

I guess that drags easier if I'm tilling anyway. Does is go deeper also (typically)?

Thanks,
online

Charlie M · May 16, 2018

I'm really surprised its not digging. Are the tines in good shape. When I used to use a front tine tiller I used to sharpen them once in a while.

Traditional Farmer · May 16, 2018

That will work fine will require a lot of passes what I use has 6 shanks that are narrower,also Ford/Dearborn made rippers years ago some called them field cultivators that will accomplish about the same thing.Just tearing up the ground some way before you till will put less wear and tear on the tiller and make the job go faster.

Steve@Advance · May 16, 2018

Doesn't the tiller have a bracket on the back for a drag spike?

Most tillers I've run had an adjustable spike, like a piece of flat bar with an angled cut on the end. You dropped it down to stop the runaway effect.

Mike M · May 16, 2018

You can make or maybe buy ? a spike to bolt onto the depth adjuster to hold it back. At least the horse models have the spot for them.
Nothing tills like a 3pt tiller behind a compact tractor with a hydro !

Bob in SD · May 16, 2018

I may try that -- thanks. I was wondering if the depth adjuster was supposed to provide some drag, but it is more of a "shoe" shape to slide forward.

ss55 · May 16, 2018

Roto-tilling live sod is not a great way to start a garden plot. A roto-tiller slices grass rhizomes into hundred of little rhizomes that can all re-sprout on their own. It is better to kill sod before roto-tilling. Moldboard plowing will bury the sod to kill it. Glyphosate (roundup) herbicide will also kill sod.

John(OR) · May 16, 2018

Roundup earlier !

Ronnie Budd · May 16, 2018

You need to bury that sod with a moldboard plow, then finish the garden with your tiller. Either of the tractors you mentioned would handle a moldboard plow with ease. Around here, you can buy a used plow for $75 to $100 per bottom, in serviceable condition. I just bought a 2 bottom Little Genius plow, in nearly perfect condition, for $150, at a farm auction.

Bob in SD · May 16, 2018

That was the plan, but we literally had 2 feet of snow on top of it three (maybe 4, but I'm thinking 3) weeks ago. First warm "roundup" day would have been today, and I'm stuck at the day job. OTOH, no frost forecasted in the 10-day, and that will pretty much bring us to our "frost free" date.

Thanks,

jeffcat · May 16, 2018

I use my big Troy Horse but hard ground is very tough. Do what others have said. Might be good to see if a farmer near you will drop his plow on your plot. Bet it won't take him three minutes. Another thing to do once you get the soil tilled a bit. See if any body around you can get a load of Mushroom soil. Second choice is a ton of composted leafs. The more bio mass you can till in the more gooder everthing will get. Next year tilling will be a breeze. One other choice is a big pile of cow barn bedding and poop. You will need to fight the weed seeds for awhile but the soil will be so much better.

gtractorfan · May 16, 2018

No help now but need to plan ahead- moldboard plow in the fall- let nature help you, freeze and thaw will mellow the ground so it's easy to work in the spring.

gtractorfan · May 16, 2018

I mentioned fall plowed soil being easy to work in the spring. I don't use a roto tiller, just the walk behind tractor (bought long ago for cheap) with different home made tools bolted to the "drawbar". Cultivator sweeps, a wide leveling blade and the ground is in good shape.

Texasmark1 · May 17, 2018

I bought a 3 pt tiller last year. I grew some Austrian field peas for soil enhancement and wanted to work them into the top layer of soil. Since purchasing and using, I have a Hay King brand, Pasture Renovator that slices the soil with coulters and has 4 rippers on a 6' unit which can be run around 10" deep or thereabouts.

If clay is in really bad shape I will make 2 passes in an X, otherwise one pass and come back with the tiller and whack away. One pass and jobs done. Unless pulverizing the soil, chaining the rear gate up allows you to run at a pretty good clip. If I drag a flex spike toothed harrow behind it, I'm ready to drill, smooth as a baby's fanny.....well sorta. My "used to be" soil breaking/maintaining implements are just sitting in the field rusting away. Maybe I'll paint em up and display them out in the front yard as "yard art".

ss55 · May 17, 2018

Yeah, the first year you just have to do whatever you can. In the fall clear off the old vegetation and moldboard plow it. The following spring your soil will be very soft and your roto-tiller will be much easier to handle.

Enjoy your new garden.

breaking sod before tilling

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