Getting an IH R110. Sat for a LONG time.

nrowles

Member
My great grandmothers farm has a 1953-1955 IH R110 sitting in the barn. I don't think the farm is going to be in the family much longer so I started seeing what I might be interested in getting for sentimental reasons. Talked to my uncle and I'm looking to get the truck. Price is $1500 (lots of family). I'm probably not going to be able to go look it over for a couple weeks.

He told me the starter went out in it about 35 years ago and it has sat in the barn ever since. I asked him if it has hydraulic brakes and he says it does but the lines are dry rotted. Has a little bit of rust here and there but is pretty solid overall.

I'm going to make a couple trips to look it over. What are the things on a truck like this that I should do or look over?

Does this truck have poured bearings? My local shop said that isn't a big deal and they can rebuild it but another guy told me that can be a problem.

I have never dealt with a vehicle that has sat this long so other than putting fresh fuel in it is there anything else I need to do to try and get it to start after a starter rebuild? I will have help along the way through this process but just a little curious now what I need to prepare for.

NGD0zuR.jpg
 

First, before you even attempt to turn the engine over, is to remove the spark plugs and put some oil in on top of the pistons, and let it set for at least one week.
 
More than likely old gas was left in tank, fuel pump and carb that has turned to varnish that will need to be worked with, points will be corroded and will need cleaning / replaced, wiring may be deteriated, tires are dry rotted, brake hoses as mentioned, wheel cylinders and master cylinder will be pitted and may or may not be rebuildable, (Rock Auto has replacements). As far as engine it is probably a 220 flat head 6 with insert bearings and pressure oiling.
 
Don't know anything about getting it started... but that sure is a neat old
critter!!!

Must be parked in-between old covered corn cribs. We have cribs like it on our farm - only our "access windows" were on the outside of the crib... allowing squirrels to easily steal whole ears of corn.
 

Take the garden hose and rinse the dust off. If there is enough of the original paint still on it, leave well enough alone. They are original only once.
 
My uncle did mention about putting diesel fuel in the cylinders. Does engine oil work better? Is there any kind of special lubricant to use specifically for this?

Sounds like the shell/insert bearings would be better than the poured!

Thanks for the tips on the likely mechanics to be done. I was also expecting many of them as well.

Yes it is in the corn crib. It got moved from the barn some years back when the floor started getting bad.

I'm planning on keeping it as original as possible.
 
WOW nrowles that is a cool barn find, as mentioned take out a couple of gallons of ATF and pull the plugs, pour in as much atf as you can into each cylinder, put the plugs back in and the longer you leave it the better. the atf will soak into the rings pistons and cylinder walls, when you go to start it or move it out pull the plugs, put an old towel over the plug holes and either rotate the engine with the starter (if you pull the starter for rebuild on your next trip) or if you pull it out put the tranny in high gear, and when you get it moving slowly let the clutch out and get the engine rotating. one question I have is the truck 6 volt or 12 volt? that is going to be great project for you, especialy with the family history.
 
What I would look for is the body condition. From the picture it looks very straight. I would look for any serious cancer on the rocker panels at the foot rests and at the bottom of the doors. Don't forget to look at the body around the windshield. If the sheet metal is eaten away that makes for a lot of work. Finding replacement metal would be near impossible and custom fabricators are expensive. The mechanical part of a restoration can be done with just about anyone with the normal mechanical skill set.

Good Luck

OTJ
 
Like others said, oil in the cylinders...

I would fix the starter, temporary a 12v battery in, crack the oil drain plug, see if any water in the pan, let it drain off.

Then see if it will turn over, spin the oil out of the cylinders, run a compression test. The compression doesn't need to be perfect, just enough to see if it has hope of starting.

Establish spark at the plugs, give it a squirt of gas in the carb, see if it will start and get oil pressure. You'll have to keep squirting gas to keep it running, a pump type oil can works well.

Once it does start, replace any obviously bad hoses and see if it will hold water. Go through the carb, temporary a gravity flow gas tank, let it run long enough to evaluate the engine. If it will hold warm oil pressure at idle, gets good compression (may have some stuck valves to deal with), minimal blow by, no knocks, it may run a long time for what it will be used for.

Good luck!
 
ATF is the way to go it both cleans up rust and frees up sticking rings. Plus pour as much down the carb as you can so as to get to the intake valves.
 
I'll throw in the suggestion to join up over at OldIH.com- a site like YT for old IH truck owners. Some really cool guys over there with a TON of knowledge of these old trucks. Our own Rusty6 posts over there, including his drone footage of his old IH trucks in action!

IH make some of the best looking trucks out there, and parts can be found, I think the tailgate may be the rarest part. Sitting that long can be bad, but not as bad as 35 more years of someone cobbling it together, or wearing things out. Good luck, and keep us informed.
 
From the pictures it looks like the body is in pretty good shape. Problem spots for that series International is above the head lights and bottom of fenders. The front fender bottom in the photo looks good and I don't see rot above the head light. Both positive signs that the rest of the body is in okay shape. It won't likely be perfect. There is probably some small rust holes in the cab floor and at the cab corners but that is almost always the case. This is in much better shape than my 1947 IHC KB1 pickup was when I started.
 
(quoted from post at 08:48:59 05/09/18) I'll throw in the suggestion to join up over at OldIH.com- a site like YT for old IH truck owners. Some really cool guys over there with a TON of knowledge of these old trucks. Our own Rusty6 posts over there, including his drone footage of his old IH trucks in action!

I'll just add the engine (if original) should be a BD 220. Not a flathead. More than likely seized up and I don't know of any concoction that really works well if it is real bad. You might get lucky. Some diesel fuel in the spark plug holes, pull with a tractor and see if it will show any sign of movement. If it skids the wheels then you have some more work ahead of you.
Count on replacing all the brake cylinders too.
Six volt , positive ground electrical system.
 
I suggest pulling it out, see what you have. But only after you have an inside space to work on it. Parking it outside and pulling it in whenever you have time adds a lot of work and is bad for the truck.
 
Yup, BD 220, over head valve engine the 560 t0 806 gas engines were based on. I personally would not even attempt to get it running without tearing it limb for limb. Worked on quite a few of that vintage. R-L -S-A-B models until we quit selling trucks.
 
(quoted from post at 15:24:37 05/09/18) I personally would not even attempt to get it running without tearing it limb for limb.

What is the harm in trying? Does it put too much pressure on internal parts? Something could snap/crack?
 
I did a little more looking and it should have a silver diamond 220 engine wh ich is overhead valve and started using insert bearings I believe in 1952. Last flat heads were about 1948 or 9
 
(quoted from post at 15:54:41 05/09/18)
(quoted from post at 15:24:37 05/09/18) I personally would not even attempt to get it running without tearing it limb for limb.

What is the harm in trying? Does it put too much pressure on internal parts? Something could snap/crack?

I would want to pressurize the oil system before starting it. You have to look at it as if it were a new motor just put together without any assembly lube. Bearing surfaces and places like camshaft lobes will suffer.
 
Just a few thoughts here. 1)IH built a very good engine, better than the big 3 competitors. 2) It probably has a 3 speed floor shift tranny. 3) They were not a fast truck, probably built for about 45 mph. 4) My sense is for a family member, the set price is about 500 too high. 5) The steering gear box and kingpins are likely to be well worn and loose. It probably has a Ross steering box. 6) If you have trouble finding ignition, electrical, or carb parts, try the Brillman Company in Mt Jackson, VA 1-888-274-5562. They have an incredible catalog and great service. www.brillman.com

Yes, I also have a love for old IH PUs.

Paul in MN
 
Pressures , yes indeed. Bent connecting rods, push rods, broken pistons, timing gears, you name it. If is was of value to me , it would come apart.

Few years ago, friend asked me to help start and Regular Farmall as they were having a sale. His dad passed on at 100 years of age and had been collecting various machines for years. He would get them running but never restored any.

Well, that engine had a bunch of stuck valves and I said, for me , I would give you more for it if you left it alone. But, he wanted it running. I said, no, I would leave it. Later that day he called me on the phone and said listen to this. He was pretty proud as his son in law had got it running. Beat on the valves until they loosened up enough to run. It sounded like heck but he was happy. To me , he just lowered it's value but I knew it had been stuck and rusted up.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:15 05/09/18) Just a few thoughts here. 1)IH built a very good engine, better than the big 3 competitors. 2) It probably has a 3 speed floor shift tranny. 3) They were not a fast truck, probably built for about 45 mph. 4) My sense is for a family member, the set price is about 500 too high. 5) The steering gear box and kingpins are likely to be well worn and loose. It probably has a Ross steering box. 6) If you have trouble finding ignition, electrical, or carb parts, try the Brillman Company in Mt Jackson, VA 1-888-274-5562. They have an incredible catalog and great service. www.brillman.com

Yes, I also have a love for old IH PUs.

Paul in MN



He says it has a 4 sp on the floor.

45 is pretty slow but I'm not worried about that. I have a vintage mustang with a built 351W in it.

It is a pretty big family and I didn't want any squaking so I was willing to give the $1500. I believe I could have given less but I'm not really worried about $500 in the big picture. If I end up getting this truck restored like I plan to $500 will be a drop in the bucket.

Thanks for the parts source.

I will also be joining the other forum mentioned on here.
 
(quoted from post at 20:02:18 05/09/18) Pressures , yes indeed. Bent connecting rods, push rods, broken pistons, timing gears, you name it. If is was of value to me , it would come apart.

I have a patience problem but this might be my test. I understand you are probably correct and the best thing for this motor would be to pull it apart and not try to start it. It will most likely need it anyways even if it would start.
 
From talking with my uncle it sounds like this might be a R-112 truck which has the same R-110 badge but gvwr is 1200 lbs more and 4 speed rather than 3. That’s a plus.

I’ve decided if motor is stuck to let it soak well and try to turn crank by hand (breaker bar) to see if I can get it going.

And my wife just told me she don’t think it will ever be on the road. Where’s the support? geeeesh

I know I have the cart before the horse but I’m excited. Guess I’ll see what I’m getting myself into here shortly.
 
(quoted from post at 06:20:14 05/12/18) From talking with my uncle it sounds like this might be a R-112 truck which has the same R-110 badge but gvwr is 1200 lbs more and 4 speed rather than 3. That’s a plus.

I’ve decided if motor is stuck to let it soak well and try to turn crank by hand (breaker bar) to see if I can get it going.

And my wife just told me she don’t think it will ever be on the road. Where’s the support? geeeesh

I know I have the cart before the horse but I’m excited. Guess I’ll see what I’m getting myself into here shortly.

Well that is sad nrowles, it seems like a nice truck.
 

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