Oliver help

Canadaeh

New User
Hi I rescenty acquired a 1959 Oliver 550gas. It haven?t been started in 25 years but I quickly looked it over and it seems to be stored correctly. Drained coolant, empty fuel tank with a kind of sweet smell so I?m guessing it was treated and the oil looks new. I?m trying to get it out of the family barn that is going to fall over very soon. So far I?ve put in a 12v 675c battery, added fuel and stabilizer, filled coolant. Changed oil filter not oil it?s self greased it up. I tried starting by shifting to N, depressing clutch and brake lifted the bush hog that?s connected to it about 8 inches pulled the choke but it wouldn?t fire. Anyone have any tips on things I should try? I?m new to Oliver?s and well tractors lol so any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
For some reason I couldn?t add it to the Oliver part of the forum it said I was using the special characters
 
Do you know there is spark at the plugs? I would suspect this is just a ignition problem. Pull each plug , one at a time, and with the plug wire on, and the base of the spark plug grounded, turn the engine over and watch for spark. If there is spark on all plugs, then it must be a fuel problem.. a gas engine that has sat for a long time, with old gas left in the carburetor, can easily have a gummed up carb. Gas , spark , compression, and timing, is all that make gas engine tic.
 
I bought a car that had set for close to 30 years, when you said the oil looked new mine did to, but all the contaminants had settled to the bottom of the pan, about 2 inches of what looked like the filling for stretch Armstrong, might be worth a look before you pump it through the engine
 
you said you put in a 12 volt battery. was it converted to 12 volt as i recall a lot of 550s were 6 volt espically the early ones . you may have burnt the points and condenser . better do some checking of the electrical sysrem
 
Very common for points to get a coating of corrosion from sitting.

Try cleaning them with a point file or contact cleaner and a business card.

Then check for spark at the plugs, not just at the coil. While the plugs are out, give each cylinder a few squirts of oil, let it sit while doing other things, then spin it out before replacing the plugs.

Once spark is established, pull the drain plug on the carb, open the fuel valve and see if fuel drains through the carb. It should establish a good flow. It nothing, or only a drip, there is a restriction, stuck needle, clogged screen. The carb may need to come apart and be cleaned. Not a difficult job, and if careful the gasket can be reused.

If it still won't start, check the compression. A trained ear will hear each cylinder build compression. If the cranking sounds uneven, it may have some stuck valves. They can usually be freed up with penetrating oil on the stem, prying and tapping with a small hammer.
 
Unless the cylinder where filled with oil cylinder walls will be rusted some. It first needs a good ATF treatment to free up the rings and clean the cylinder walls.

As for not starting it could well not have enough compression due to the rings being stuck plus the point will need to be cleaner or replaced and the carb may also need some TLC
 
Thanks for the info guys! I?m going to head over and have a look now and see what I can do! I?ll keep you updated!
 
Do you mean alternator conversion? The tractor should have always been 12 volt. Would have had a 12 volt generator.
 

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