JD 4010 hydraulics

Cb8128

New User
We have a 4010 that we have been struggling with and was wanting some advice as to whether we need to replace the main pump. Through some research we have seen a lot of information regarding issues with a relief valve or stroke control valve. Our issue is the three point hitch will not lift a bale and the steering will not work unless the tractor is at high idle. Today we replaced the sroke control valve and tried to tighten the set screw to
increase the pressure. We attached a gauge and it read 700 and then 1000 when at full throttle and it is supposed to be around 2100. As we tightened the screw with the gauge on it did not increase at all. We were confused as to why it wouldn't increase the pressure at all.
 
Positive displacement hydraulic pumps maximum pressure is limited by wear. At some point, the clearance between the housing and the compressing (moving)
components becomes too great to prevent excessive bypassing. When the pump leakage is sevier, the measured pressure will fall below the regulated
value. Increasing the regulators pressure will then fail to increase the real pressure. Imagine trying to get 50psi out of an oxygen cylinder when it
has 40psi, by tightening the regulator screw. Unless there is an internal hemorrhage between the pump, and the regulator, the pump is worn. (opinion)
Jim
 

OOPS! trans pump needs to supply 5 GPM. How long since hyd filter was changed & trans sump screen checked/cleaned?

I've read where several hyd pumps have been replaced to determine that replaced pump wasn't the hyd problem!!!!!!!!! One needs to perform good diagnostics before thinking about replacing a hyd pump.
 
15+ years ago I was using my '70 4020 with a loader on it. I got off the tractor to talk to someone and left the tractor run. While we were talking the tractor suddenly sounded a lot quieter. When I got back on the tractor it had no hydraulics. I revved the motor wide open and then had weak hydraulics. After a trip to town it worked fine. Apparently a steel pipe from the trans pump broke off and was circulating the hydraulic oil around the transmission instead of up to the main pump. At least that's how I understood it.
 

One bit of information I left out was that the bakes pads were shot and there were particles and minor pieces of metal in the oil and filters. We took the rear housing off and replaced the brakes and used a magnet to dig out a half coffee can full of crud in the transmission housing. We then flushed the lines and replaced the filters and added new filters BC we assumed the filters were so clogged it wasn't getting enough flow. We may check the filters again and see how much stuff was left in it. But we were thinking we may have to replace the pump. We just wondered if we should try anything else that was a little less work before pulling the pump.
 

We replaced the filters and fluid after redoing the brakes but that didn't make much of a difference. How's the best way to check the transmission pump flow. We just hate to pull the pump off if we don't have to. But it's looking like that may have to happen.
 
The fluid is picked up through a screen which will close off the supply to main pump. The filter is between the screen and charge pump. Screen is located attached to a square headed plug below and to the rear of the filter cap. The screen will get clogged up with the brake particles.
 
Was the inlet screen cleaned/replaced at the time of the brake repair? If not, that is likely your problem. Wouldn't hurt to check it again anyway.
 
(quoted from post at 10:55:13 04/30/18) Was the inlet screen cleaned/replaced at the time of the brake repair? If not, that is likely your problem. Wouldn't hurt to check it again anyway.

We did clean out that screen and it had a lot of junk in it at the time we replaced the brakes. It's ran maybe an hour since then, it could possible have some stuff in it again but I haven't checked yet.
 

Sump screen location is noted in photo

mvphoto15768.jpg
 
Sounds unlikely the screen is plugged again. But to check without draining the fluid use a shop
vac on the fill while pulling it for a quick check to rule it out.
 
(quoted from post at 05:34:34 04/30/18)
OOPS! trans pump needs to supply 5 GPM. How long since hyd filter was changed & trans sump screen checked/cleaned?

I've read where several hyd pumps have been replaced to determine that replaced pump wasn't the hyd problem!!!!!!!!! One needs to perform good diagnostics before thinking about replacing a hyd pump.

Well we replaced the hydraulic pump, and it didn't solve our problem. We still are reading around 800 on the gauge at the back of the tractor. We will have to check and see if the transmission lift pump is supplying 5 gpm
 

Sadly your YT handle can be added to the long list of the people that replaced a hyd pump only to determine that the pump replaced was not the hyd problem.

Correct tool to check trans pump output is a flowrater but they are expensive. You can place a drain can/pan under & remove hyd filter cover then turn engine over for 15 seconds to calculate GPM BUT amount will not have any pressure on it which can affect accurate GPM calculation.
 
(quoted from post at 05:31:28 04/19/19)
Sadly your YT handle can be added to the long list of the people that replaced a hyd pump only to determine that the pump replaced was not the hyd problem.

Correct tool to check trans pump output is a flowrater but they are expensive. You can place a drain can/pan under & remove hyd filter cover then turn engine over for 15 seconds to calculate GPM BUT amount will not have any pressure on it which can affect accurate GPM calculation.

We figured out our issue, we have a control valve tied in for our loader.. we capped off the line running to the control valves for it and that solved our problem. Evidently that was leaking through and not allowing it to build pressure.
The man that rebuilt our pump said it was about shot and showed us the parts, so luckily it was probably due for a rebuild anyways. Now it will be time to put a clutch in soon and she may last us a little while.
 

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