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Traction

O

Olliejunkie

Well-known Member
My super 88 is helpless. I think it's a combination of the loader and wore out tires. I have gotten it stuck twice and pulled it out with my 3010 with no help from the 88. I don't think either one has liquid in tires and I don't plan to put any in. Do you all think a 3 point wieght would help. Other problem would be I either have hydraulic to bucket or 3 point. Maybe I could chain 3 point up.
 
15535.jpg


Here's a pic.
 
I think in that mud anything you do would get you stuck. Rained here three days ok to walk on but take 4wd tractor to move chicken
coop and it just spins.
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:58 04/25/18) I think in that mud anything you do would get you stuck. Rained here three days ok to walk on but take 4wd tractor to move chicken
coop and it just spins.
Click to expand...
This pic was taken months ago. It was basically dry last time except I got the front wheels in the mud. My 3010 pulled it out up a hill with out hardly slipping. I didn't drive it down there to see if it would get stuck but I doubt that it would've.
 
I made a weight barrel to fit my 3pt hitch.But,if you have a set of plows,or a round bale mover(and a bale!),or a disc,that would work also.Mark
 
Any weight you add toward the rear will help.Wheel weights would be my choice Oliver or Cockshutt weights will work on the 88, they weigh around 280lbs a set.I put 4 sets of Massey Harris weights on the rear of my
1465 Oliver made a big difference.
 
When I had my JD 4010, it came with a FEL and very heavy-duty bucket. I had also bought a 3-pt backhoe, which I believe was originally part of a JD 310 TLB. The 4010 came with calcium, but I got rid of that from leakage. Was a horribly wet Spring and it ended up getting watered down by tens of thousands of gallons of water!

Anyway, for my uses, I never had much trouble with traction, but when the backhoe was on there, there was a HUGE gain in traction. I don't see how adding weight to your 3-pt could possibly hurt.

In Winter, I'd have a 7 1/2' JD snow thrower on the rear which made traction awesome. I didn't have chains and, when I'd get stuck, just a little help from the bucket would normally get me moving again. ...But then it's flat land here!
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:48 04/25/18) well if you have a loader tractors without fluid in tires, better take the loader off!
Click to expand...
Yes. That's not a bad idea. I may move it to my 88 standard. Regardless though my 3010 seems to have better traction than my other tractors. Maybe it just has better tires.
 
Beet juice (rimguard) is non toxic, and non corrosive. Windshield washer fluid is also non corrosive, but is not non toxic. Wheel weights are the best answer. Weight hung off the hitch, and chained up, still puts load on the axle bearings and hitch components. The rear hung weight also reduces maneuverability. Jim
 
A strong loader can almost lift one or both of the rear tires off the ground on an older tractor without ballast. That does not leave much weight left for traction. Rear wheel ballast helps a lot on a loader tractor. Fluid in the rear tires would add 500 to 700 pounds per tire. It would take 4 or 5 140 pound wheel weights per tire to match that.
 
Having a loader on a tractor requires some ballast on the rear. Calcium is corrosive and can be
horrible for rims when not taken care of but putting weight in the tires is cheap. If you can find
some iron weights that would be great too. I am thinking about putting calcium in my loader
tractor. I have 600 lbs of iron and fwa and i keep a mower or log splitter on the rear but it still gets
hairy if i try to load it to the max.
 
Had a neighbor when I was a kid swore by Oliver tractors running Montgomery Ward tires. He had two 77's
 
I will probably bolt it on a different tractor that has liquid and wieghts.
I have just water in one of my tractors as it doesn't get very cold here and I do not need the tractor if it does.
 
i do know from experience the best wieght for traction with a front end loader is fluid and wieghts, only weights is not enough. the tires will still spin. plus take into account the load in the bucket, and the ground type. on frozen ground you wont do much. more load up front less wieght in rear tires to ground. sure dont see what everyone is so in a panic againt calcium. keep your valve stems in order and you have no rust. rust is from leaking calcium onto the rim. calcium has the highest weight also. plus... with fluid the tractor will be more stable and run 8-10 lbs air pressure.
 
I use a 55 gal barrel, full of gravel , hanging from my 3 point, with a chain to keep it from creeping down. That is on my 335 Moline. On my WD45 with loader, I hook a 8' 3 pt disc on the back, but you have to remember it is there, to keep from hooking a fence at times.
 
Lets sum it up - loader on the front, no weight on the back and bad tires. At least one of those has to change.
 
(quoted from post at 02:27:17 04/26/18) Beet juice (rimguard) is non toxic, and non corrosive. Windshield washer fluid is also non corrosive, but is not non toxic. Wheel weights are the best answer. Weight hung off the hitch, and chained up, still puts load on the axle bearings and hitch components. The rear hung weight also reduces maneuverability. Jim
Click to expand...
Has anyone out there ever mixed baking soda with water to keep the the PH right so water is noncorrosive?
 
Having a loader on a tractor requires some ballast on the rear. Calcium is corrosive and can be
horrible for rims when not taken care of but putting weight in the tires is cheap. If you can find
some iron weights that would be great too. I am thinking about putting calcium in my loader
tractor. I have 600 lbs of iron and fwa and i keep a mower or log splitter on the rear but it still gets
hairy if i try to load it to the max.
 
People trying to stay away from calcium chloride fluid solution have every right to avoid it. Dad traded for my 1954 Super H in May 1968, Super H probably had CaCl fluid since new. About 1969 Dad and I put new tires on the back of it, used the old Firestone's as clamp-on duals to pull the planter with. One inner tube had 3-4 patches against the rim, but they looked solid so reused the tube. Flash forward about 42-43 years. Sunday afternoon in Febuary I go out to the shop to start the SH and clear the snow from Storm of the Century. Right rear tire is flat! It was the tube that had 3-4 patches on it, against the rim. When i finally got the tire off the rim couple months later the rim was a rusty mess. I sand blasted, primed, and painted both rims when I put new inner tubes in both tires. It wasn't the valve stem leaking. There was never any sign the tube was leaking CaCl, just all the rust inside the rim. That's gotta be some kind of record, owning a tractor 44 years without getting a flat tire.

I bet the insides of the rims on the '51 M look brand new yet, tractor has always been a loader tractor, never ever had fluid. Normally had 2 pair of IH weights.
 
If you put fluid in the tires it is weight sitting on the ground. If you use iron, other than wheel weights, it is applying pressure on a bearing. Better to have the weight some where that bearings don't suffer the abuse.
 

I use a 55 gal barrel, full of gravel , hanging from my 3 point, with a chain to keep it from creeping down. That is on my 335 Moline. On my WD45 with loader, I hook a 8' 3 pt disc on the back, but you have to remember it is there, to keep from hooking a fence at times.

I do the same. Massey F-40 with FEL. It is hilly where I live, can't get a good grip when front end is too heavy. I bought a carry-all at TSC and put two of those plastic 55 gal drums side by side on it with some finagling to get them not to move around. Plenty of traction with both of them filled. Could probably take some of the water out and experiment with lighter weight back there.
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:48 04/25/18) well if you have a loader tractors without fluid in tires, better take the loader off!
Click to expand...

Agree!! ANY tractor equipped with a front end loader NEEDS ballast added to the rear. Not only does the ballast offer increased traction, but it also adds stability and makes the unit much safer to operate.

Also, never under-estimate the benefit of tire chains on a loader tractor.
 
Has anyone out there ever mixed baking soda with water to keep the the PH right so water is noncorrosive?
Click to expand...

Calcium chloride is not acidic, so mixing an alkaline such as baking soda with it will not make any difference.

CaCl is a salt, like NaCl (table salt). Basically you're putting salt water in your tires. The pH of salt water is right around neutral.

There's tons of info on google about how salt corrosion works, but it is not an acidic reaction. It's more like what happens inside a battery.
 
Weight on the rear will help you, along with rear tire chains. A hydraulic bucket will also help you push yourself out of a problem, too. I have a very heavy front end loader (WL-42 Westendorf) on my 86 Hydro. I have 600 pounds of rear wheel weights on the back end, plus I have a 3 point mounted snow blower. I had more problems this winter than most other years prior. I do not have chains. I was able to get myself out of any problem I got into, with using the bucket to help push myself backwards and out of the problem I was in. I detest calcium chloride solution due to its corrosive nature. It is fine as long as long as nothing leaks out. I replaced a set of rims on an older tractor I had restored, and I have another tractor with one rim rotted out around the valve stem needing the entire rim replaced because too much is gone on a double bevel rim. I have also welded in a patch in the rim around the valve stem where it rotted out from calcium chloride solution, and the size of the patch was only about 2 inches by 3 inches on a single bevel rim. The point of that explanation was if you go with calcium chloride solution, you definitely want new inner tubes. On a tractor like you have, new tire tread will last longer than the inner tubes and tires themselves.
 
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