Dodge truck manual transmission/clutch issue

Bob in SD

Member
Hi All,

This one has me stumped. 20006 1/2 ton with a manual five speed. Occasionally, especially when warm, it's very difficult (as in almost impossible) to put into first gear when stopped. When this happens, it won't go into any gear (so you can't use 2nd to line up the gate).

Also, at least sometimes, if I push in the clutch and put it into gear a terrible rattling sound starts. It sounds like chains rattling and continues even if I take it out of gear for as long as the clutch is in. I haven't had a chance yet to go underneath and figure exactly where the noise is coming from (it sounds further back than the tranny, but I have a topper on and it's probably echoing off of that. It's got to be tranny or clutch, right?). Again, this is with the truck stopped, clutch in, and doesn't start until I put it in gear.

Any ideas? Any chance a sticky throw-out bearing could cause these issues? Hoping to avoid putting a new tranny in a 16 year old truck. Miles are low (about 150k).

Thanks,
 
For some reason the clutch is not releasing completely, if you shut off the engine it goes into gear easily, right? Could be the pilot bearing sticking and making the transmission input shaft turn, or a problem with the disc/pressure plate, or if it is hydraulic, the clutch slave cylinder is not extending enough to disengage the clutch. Possibilities, but not all that helpful I guess.
 
I think there was an issue of a snap ring coming loose on the counter shaft and causing problems. Google or call a good transmission shop.
HTH Jf
 
This really sounds like a pilot bearing problem.I did take a 96 Dodge 3500 with a Cummins apart,thinking it was the pilot bearing,it was the damper springs in the clutch disc escaping from their cubbyholes.
 
If the rattling continues with the clutch down, and the transmission in gear, the problem has to be in the clutch. Reason is, once the transmission is in gear, and the truck is not moving, the transmission is also not moving.

Sounds like a failed pilot bearing. That would cause the noise when the bearing lets go and is turning, even though it is rough. And would also cause the transmission to not go in gear when it is locked up and transferring power from the engine to the input shaft.

I suspect it will grind if you try to go to reverse when it won't go in forward gears.
 
What type of clutch linkage is it?? Hyd could be master or slave going bad. Manual linkage rod bent or out of place or out of adjustment or throw out bearing going bad
 
Hydraulic, and it's been acting up for awhile, without the noise. I replaced the master and slave with a pre-bled unit and no change. That was my first guess also (well, second, I wanted to bleed it first but there's no way to bleed it :(
 
That's what I was thinking (so far as the clutch part, I hadn't considered the pilot bearing). Two mechanics have told me that it's transmission, and can't be the clutch. That doesn't make any sense to me for the reason you stated.

I'd like to diagnose it before I take it apart, as once it's apart if the tranny is also bad I won't have any way of knowing.

Thanks for the hint on the pilot bearing, that makes sense.
 
Thanks all. Since fixing the tranny would cost about what the truck is worth (and also it has some other issues...), I'm hoping it's clutch related. I hadn't even thought about the pilot bearing and was trying to figure out how a sticky throw out bearing or loose pressure plate could do this. I'm liking the pilot bearing idea.

I think the mechanics around here mainly see automatics, and two reputable shops have told me it's the transmission synchronizers, but that didn't seem right to me.

A new clutch every 150k isn't totally unreasonable, especially having trained one teenager and a wife that didn't grow up driving a clutch.

Thanks again YTMAG!
 
No way to bleed sounds wrong to me. Can you watch the travel of the clutch throw out bearing arm to make sure it does travel as far as it should??
 
Assuming it is the pilot bearing, can I wait till May to fix it if I limit it to a max of 40 miles a week (very few shifts actually, about 2 miles in town/8 on two different highways, once or twice a week). I guess the bearing is going to be replaced anyway, but I could mess up the tip of the shaft that rides in the bearing? I guess it could seize all the way up and I wouldn't be able to shift w/out frying the tranny?

I can do it myself in May, but would have to hire it done now. I could actually afford to hire it done if needed, but would rather take it to somebody that could diagnose the tranny once it's apart so we don't put in a new clutch and then have to go back in again later for a tranny issue.

Thanks,
 
Quick follow up to confirm that the pilot bearing was shot and the throw out bearing was also "kinda rough". Thanks to all who pointed me in that direction. I appreciate your wisdom,
 

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