Por 15

Anybody use por 15 Is it worth the cost ?

https://www.por15.com/POR-15_Rust_Preventive_Coating

Never used POR 15 but have used other brands that do the same thing. This treatment is worth every cent keep in mind when used surface preparation is everything. If that part is not done correctly the product cannot work as advertised.

I've used it for various projects. I think it's a very good product. If you plan on painting over it, paint when it's still a little tacky or sand it after it hardens. It's so hard and smooth that if you don't do one of those two things, don't expect the paint to stay on. They also have an excellent product for lining fuel tanks.

Excellent point. I forgot that. Follow their directions closely or you cannot expect excellent results

I have sealed close to 20 fuel tanks with there tank liner never had a problem but I do go the extra mile to prep them. I have took the left over and just painted the inside of a clean drum it peeled off so prep is every thing.

I brought a can of black like in your link to paint something that sets out in the weather in direct sunlight, sanded and painted no primer with no overcoat it turned dull inside a year and just faded away just like any cheap black paint. Tell you the truth I did not put a top coat on it like the directions say my bad I was just interested to see if it there was magic in it.. It did not peel off was somewhat durable but lost its luster fast. If it were something like a chassis out of the sunlight it probably would have done great just like any cheap black paint...

No I am not sold on it to paint an exterior surface and expect magic... What I used was not the same as there tank liner...

I use it and you have to understand how it works and do what the product needs to really work. It does not work very well on sand blasted surfaces. It works better on wire brushed surfaces that have had all the loose material knocked off. The neutralize the rust with a propionic acid of some sort. Then apply the rust preventive. I usually brush it on. It will smooth itself out. Then cover it with the Top Coat product. You can use other paint but you have to do it either right after the Por 15 is dry or wait and lightly sand it. The Rust preventative needs to be covered as it is not UV resistant.

I usually use the Por 15 on frames and that type of stuff but I have painted the base of my grain leg with it, the inside of a manure spreader and other places/things that are around corrosive. It is well worth the money.

I have used por-15 on my trucks, cleaned and brushed it on in the bed of my 97 dodge, just buff any rust or scale off down to clean metal (I use a 5" Makita grinder with a buffing wheel) I have to do the fender wells on my 05 dodge soon, going to buy bushwhacker covers, buff down the fenders and brush on the por-15, then install the covers. has worked really good so far sv.

I use POR 15 all the time. Prep is the key and a top coat. Although I have painted cast iron carbs with just POR 15 and it stood up very well. If you buy a can you almost need to use it all up right away. The stuff sticks so well, you will not be able to get the lid off for a second use. I will take two #10 hex head sheet metal screws and drive them in either side of the lid. You can get those out pretty easy. You will have to king of "glug, glug" the paint out of the can. Slow but at least you can use it. I use it a lot for sheet metal on tractors. Usually the insides where there is metal to metal contact and you won't see the brush strokes. Use a rust neutralizer and top coat and it does a very good job. The gas tank kit works excellent. I do all my restored tractors with it. I will usually wash the inside of the tank three or four times. I put a couple of pounds of flat washer inside and slosh them around as I am washing. Dry the tank completely! Apply the liner as instructed. No more rust in the sediment bowls for me. Word of warning. Once you get POR 15 on something you will not be getting it off once it dries so wear grubby clothes,wear gloves and put down a ground cloth. This is from bad experience...

OTJ

I use a similar product from SEM which is a supplier to auto body shops. The active ingredient of all of them is phosphoric acid which converts the rust to inert iron phosphate. A friend prepped and painted some tractor body panels for me as a favor a few years ago. He didn't use a rust converter, and within two years the paint was bubbling up over some rust pits.

I carefully pour any I have left in a canning jar and use a sealer lid keeps it great.

It has only one issue. It cannot be exposed to sunlight. It must be painted or used where there is no UV. All the comments below are accurate. Jim

I have used it over the years. It has it's place . Not a cure all for every thing.
Once I open a Quart I pour it into glass baby food jars and seal them good . It will last longer that way than using out of quart can with multiple openings of can. One thing I have found it useful for is when laying down fiberglass cloth say on rusty floor boards.

I used it to seal the underside of the hood on my 850 and top coated. It has held up very well. I also tried it on the underside of a mower deck. It did not do well. Though it is very hard, it could not take the beating.

It's great stuff, but MUST be applied according to the directions. If you expect to treat it like a 2-buck can of bargain-store paint, open the jar and start slopping it on, you're wasting time and money. Don't skimp on prep, and don't cheap out on pre-treat--use THEIR cleaner and pre-treat--it's not much more $$ and it's made to work as a whole with the paint itself. If using it in more than one application, do NOT brush from the can--pour out what you need (I use a cut-down Dixie cup to scoop it out) and then put a piece of Saran wrap between the can and lid. Otherwise, you will NOT get the cover off--the paint is stronger than the paint can. Again, all this is in their directions--half an hour of reading will save you LOTS of headaches, and none of it is rocket science, but it HAS to be done and done right to get the best results. I've got multiple applications on hard-wearing surfaces that have been there 10 years or more and look like they were just painted, but if it sees a lot of sunlight the paint will dull down considerably--it will still hold up, but it will lose its color and gloss.