Clutch adjust Case 1190

MFnewbie

Member
Greetings All. I Need some help adjusting the clutch on my case 1190. I was okay on shift but PTO would not engage via clutch (PTO only worked by dead starting). I took off the cover plate underneath, and found 3 lock-nuts and threaded posts. Do I adjust those out (counter clockwise) towards the front end, or in (clock wise) towards the rear? I've tried a little both way with any success, except I seem to have lost my pedal returning. It falls all the way forward to the floor board just by gravity. I thought I better stop at this point and ask for some help. Also is it possible to simply adjust the clutch cam lever a notch or 2? I just wondered if could adjust for free play that way, but I can't figure out how to get it loose. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance!
 
Assuming you have a 2 stage clutch, First step would be to adjust those screws till you have .060" clearance under the front of them.
 
Assuming you have a 2 stage clutch, First step would be to adjust those screws till you have .060" clearance under the front of them.
 
Thanks for your reply... really appreciate it. I need to clarify what you mean by under. I've included a pic if you wouldn't mind expounding on your answer. So to the left is to the front of the tractor, right is towards the rear. Is the .060" measurement from the top end (head) of the square adjust screw (left) to back side of the disc plate?

Thanks again!
 
"Under the screw" is the end that doesn't get the allen wrench shoved in it.

No picture showing up. Ive done lots of these clutches, I don't recall seeing a square head in there.
 

trying to send the pic again
a255986.jpg
 
If the pic came through then you can see the top of the screw is square, the bottom is flanged. If I turn the screw in, eventually the flanged end makes contact (with what I don't know). So do I want the .060" measurement from bottom of the screw (flanged end) and that contact point? probably should have mentioned yes it is 2 stage and I am not a mechanic... just a DIY guy on a budget not afraid to ask stupid questions.

Once again, Thanks!
 
That is an Laycock clutch, not the Borg and Beck that I was giving you instructions for.

I have never had one on a DB with a 2 stage, only on the independent clutch ones. From the little I can see, it looks like the independent clutch.

Can you snap a picture of the area near your clutch pedal, and the area between your left leg and the fender?
 
I've always believed it was 2 stage, but I have heard it referred to as independent PTO the 2nd pic shows the pull up lever to engage PTO.
a256014.jpg
 
That is the independent, not 2 stage.

Adjustment is by tightening down the 3/8" nuts on the threaded rods. If you are out of adjustment you can add some spacers under the nuts. I see lots of adjustment there.

Make sure that when you are done, there is some free travel before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate arms.

The internal adjustment with the square heads are for adjusting difference in the arms on the pressure plate.
 
I've been adjusting the rods too all along while in my trouble shooting mode, but I finally stopped
until got some good guidance because nothing was working for me. I'll give it another go
tomorrow... really appreciate you hangin' with me on this one.
 
I wanted to reach and thank you RGMartin for the assist. I hate to lean on you (or anyone else with advice) again, but now I'm on
to another issue which is excessive smoke all of the sudden. When I last operated this tractor (Mid Dec) there was no indication
of rough running or smoke. Just a little smoke at start up, that went away within a minute or so of operation. Yesterday as I was
trying to find the sweet spot on clutch adjust, I noticed it running rough and smoking badly. I thought possibly as it warmed up
it might smooth out and stop smoking, but no such luck. From what I've read it could be several things. I just wondered if you
have experience with Case, diesels what your thoughts are to trouble shoot. I'm not an engine guy so I hope its not going to
involve a tear down.

As Always, Thanks in advance!
 
It was getting dark, but I'd have to say lighter in color, possibly slightly blueish. Did not smell particularly sweet. Today after work before
it gets dark I'll try get a better indication for you.
 
Irritating to the eyes? Cold weather? Engine up to temperature(probably not if you weren't working it)? Probably just raw fuel coming out the exhaust. Pretty normal for a DB. Once the engine gets warm it should clear up.
 
That's What I'm hoping. Gonna set a Salamander in front of it for about 20 min and see if runs normally. Also I wondered if can answer one more
clutch question. You mentioned from the clutch pic it was a Laycock. Would you say that is OEM for this 1190, or do you think it's been replaced to
that make?
 
With the independent clutch set up, that is OEM.

You need to get the engine to operating temp to clear up the smoke(180 degrees or so), the salamander might make it start easier, but won't get it hot enough to clear the smoke. You need to use it.
 
took a pic after running it about 20 min. It finally gave a smooth idle, but throttle up in the 540 range it acted like it was
missing out, even after 20 min.

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto10358.jpg"/>
 
Looks like fuel. I wouldn't run any of my that long in an enclosed space or they would smoke me out.

If you think there is a miss, you can isolate it by cracking loose the injector lines one at a time and see which one affects the miss the least. Then pull that injector and get it tested.
 

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