675 Mile Road Trip

Welding man

Well-known Member
Location
West Virginia
Wife and I made a 675 mile trip Thursday night and Friday to pick up a new toy. I have been
wanting one these for a long time. Found this one on Yesterdays Tractor ads and we made the
trip and picked up. We had a good safe trip although we did have some snow to deal with.
Glad to be home and happy to have a new play toy.
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My wife loves to make road trips like that with me trouble is I?ve got to many projects and try not to buy anything anymore
 

I got a great deal on mine maybe 15 years ago. I think that it is a Taylor. All it needed to make it work was cleaning out a tube plugged with mud, and a new temperature gauge. It has been very frustrating though because every other year I think of something else to try on my 960 Ford to get it to put out close to the power that some of the other pullers imply it makes, only to get my hopes dashed agin.
 
Be sure to have it hitched when you use it. I had dad's PTO only connected to a D19 one time and flipped the dynamometer over when I cranked down the wheel. Didn't hurt it but lost a little oil.
 
My club uses one like that at our show every year and hook to possibly a hundred tractors a day and never hooked it up and never come close to turning over.
 
Well....for those of us who may not know,how does it work? We love a good road trip, especially when what you go for is exactly what you hope it is!
 
Grandpa Love,here is the other side. It has a PTO shaft.You hook a water hose to it to keep it cool. You hook it up and start the tractor, put the PTO in gear, bring it up to 540 PTO RPM. The wheel on the back increases or decreases the load on the shaft. It is great for fine tuning under load,checking PTO horsepower, checking PTO clutches, and breaking in newly rebuilt engines. Also makes a good water heater for you power washer. Ha!
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They make the load with hydrolics and have a big oil resivor. I don't know how they actually do it. Just spent many an hour standing next to the operator. For a 720 RPM shaft there is a different part of the guage to reed power on. And for the 1000 RPM PTO there is a section to read that power but then you have to have a different shaft for the correct spline that we do not have. There is also a chart for a different speed that I cannot recall what it is now. We have had my 44 2N hoked to it and tested on both the 540 and 720 RPM settings as the 540 is standard PTO speeds but with the Sherman over drive that also increases PTO speed and then opening the throttle wider we could get it to be red on the 720 RPM section of the gage. If you crank up the pressure you can pull a tractor down from the 540 RPM to less than 400 RPM to overload the tractor. And when we run the tractors at the show Al usually will do that just to see how they will pull down. If you can get Buckeyeal that posts on the John Deere section to read and respond he can explain the ways they work as he owns the one used at the show.
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:49 02/04/18) Grandpa Love,here is the other side. It has a PTO shaft.You hook a water hose to it to keep it cool. You hook it up and start the tractor, put the PTO in gear, bring it up to 540 PTO RPM. The wheel on the back increases or decreases the load on the shaft. It is great for fine tuning under load,checking PTO horsepower, checking PTO clutches, and breaking in newly rebuilt engines. Also makes a good water heater for you power washer. Ha!

I have a M&W Model 500, looks very similar, there is a guy named Pete Holtgrew who bought all everything M&W had when they sold out, I actually gave him a copy of the only known service manual operator manual for the 500. Did you get any of the fuel raters too?
 


Most Dynos work on the water brake principal. There is a wheel inside a housing with very tight tolerances all around. As the wheel turns, and the valve opened to let more water in the friction gets to be greater and greater. An arm extending from the edge of the housing registers the resistance through a tube with oil in it to the gauge where the reading is taken. The water flows from the center to the outside and heats up quickly, so the temperature needs to be constantly monitored to keep enough water flowing out to prevent boiling.
 
I think if you will do a little research, the M and W's don't work that way. They use
hydraulic oil or Dextron. The water is only for cooling.
 
(quoted from post at 18:18:57 02/04/18)

Most Dynos work on the water brake principal. There is a wheel inside a housing with very tight tolerances all around. As the wheel turns, and the valve opened to let more water in the friction gets to be greater and greater. An arm extending from the edge of the housing registers the resistance through a tube with oil in it to the gauge where the reading is taken. The water flows from the center to the outside and heats up quickly, so the temperature needs to be constantly monitored to keep enough water flowing out to prevent boiling.

I have an M&W 400B like the one pictured. These work by operating a hydraulic pump. When you turn the load wheel, it begins to close a valve that restricts the oil flow and builds up pressure. If you load the tractor to its rated PTO speed, then you can read the horsepower directly off the gauge, since it is calibrated to convert pressure to horsepower at PTO speed. If, however, you want to check the horsepower at any other speed, then you have to read both the RPM gauge and the pressure gauge and line up those numbers on the side rule that comes with the dyno. The horsepower is then read from the slide rule.

The "horsepower gauge" on the dyno is only accurate at rated PTO speeds of 540, 720, or 1000. If you want to know the horsepower at higher or lower speeds than the standard PTO speeds, use the two gauge readings and consult the slide rule.

The water hose is for cooling the hot oil and it goes through a radiator inside the oil tank. The oil gets pretty hot when you have the load cranked down. There is a manual flow valve that lets you adjust the water flow to keep the oil temperature in a certain range.

The dyno should be hooked to your hitch for stability. Not only that, if you're cranking enough horsepower, the dyno can lift a wheel. We set a loader bucket on it to hold it down.
 

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