Flywheel removal from 60

Millerpc

New User
I need to remove the flywheel on my 1953 JD 60 to replace the ring gear. I think my dad had a used taper lock type installed 30 years ago. I can't tell if the large square "nut" (4 &1/2 inch square) on the outside is threaded on? If so, is that a right-hand thread? I've not been able to move it.
And the two large crossing bolts that clamp the flywheel to the crank appear to have the nuts spot-welded on. Is that typical? Should my Map gas torch be able to melt those welds, or do I need to have an acetylene torch?
Any advice would be appreciated. I'm attaching a photo of the flywheel.
a255617.jpg
 
Don't loosen the bolts. The nut is a right hand tread. I put a piece of angle iron from the floor to a tooth on the flywheel, that will keep the flywheel from turning, then a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar to get the nut loose. Don't take the nut all the way off, then you need to beat on the flywheel at places 180 degrees apart until the it comes loose from the taper sleeve. Search the Deere archives for more details.
 
Personally I think that you would be better off posting this at the Deere page here, but loving the old 60's and 70's AND THE FIRST TO ADMIT THAT I NEVER MAINTAINED ONE, I'm looking at the mechanics of the photo beyond the paint on the shaft, the most important piece in the photo. The mechanics of what I see are...loosen the flywheel and move it towards the engine, that will give you room to move the square collar towards the engine as well. At that point, I assume that the round collar on the splines will be released from the shaft and be able to be removed ONCE you get it past the paint. Looking at the mechanics of the situation, that's what I see as a 60 user, not a 60 mechanic.

I will be the first to admit that I've never taken one apart, but given your picture, that's what I see. Post it over at the Deere page here where you can get better info and torque specs as well. Heat any of it up? Absolutely not if you can avoid it and someone at the Deere page will tell you how not to have to do that.

Best of luck to you.

Mark
 
Looks to me that pin visible goes through both nut and crank.Remove the paint from the flats. Look carefully to see if the pin is driven through the nut and crankshaft. If so,the nut will NEVER come off. Get a punch and drive the pin out.The nut should come off.That pin will be a 'keeper' to keep the nut from moveing.As was said,go down to the John deere board. those guys know their stuff.I'm an IH guy....LOL
 
That is definitely a taper lock flywheel. The nuts are welded to a pre-determined torque and do not need to be removed. Loosen the big square nut and bump the flywheel outward to loosen on the taper. I hold the flywheel from turning with a chain through one of the casting holes and around the axle. After the flywheel is loose, remove the nut and then the flywheel. Re-install the nut and use a puller to remove the tapered hub from the crankshaft. The pin in the end of the crankshaft is for the starting crank and is in the crankshaft only.
 
With all the John Deere engines I have rebuilt have never played with a taper lock. Makes me wonder how the crankshaft end play is delt with. Obviously you will need something to lift the flywheel off the crank unless you are a strapping individual. 15 yrs ago I was still able and kept all my inner body parts from popping out. Be careful
 
On some, you can pop the ring gear off, turn it around, and put it back on using the other side. I just did this on a 50.
 
Thanks for all the good information I needed. I went ahead and chained the flywheel to the rear axle, and with Harbor Freight's biggest pipe wrench and a 2" pipe about four feet long for leverage, I was able to get that big nut loose. Now I've been trying to get the flywheel to loosen up by prying around it, but no go. I'll eventually get it, but if anybody has a clever technique they'd share, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again.
 
Reread deeretails post. He said to leave the nut on loose so the flywheel does not fall off, then beat on the flywheel with a BFH 180 degrees apart until the flywheel comes loose.
 

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