Changing Oil brands????

JD Seller

Well-known Member
I am switching the oil I use in all of my equipment due to cost and dislike of the "new" supplier.

For the heavy diesel equipment I am thinking 15w40 Shell Rotella. I can get 55 gallon barrels for $529. That is $300 a barrel lower than what my "Current" brand is going to cost.

On my Cars/gas pickups I was looking at the local Farm and Fleet an found a good deal on Citgo 5 qt. containers. 5w30 and 5w20 for $8.99. Even better was two per household got a $7 off on top of that. I am open to different brands but want the 5 qt. containers. Quaker State is out and Valvoline too. I am not going to the full synthetic oils.

So what do you think of these brands/choices????
 
Why don't you like synthetics? I switched to full syn in our vehicles a couple years back and am very pleased. Quaker State, no less!
 
About 5 or 6 years ago we switched to Rotella 15/40 in our trucks with Cummins engines and have not had one problem. We get the 55 Gal. drums at Costco
 
been using fleet farm oil for 45+ years in every engine i have 15-40 diesel oil never lost a engine in all them years did rebuild some because they were shot when i bought them P.S.also used Fram filters on just about everything
 
I've been using Kendall 15W-40 diesel grade oil in every engine I own for over 20 years with no known problem from it and its reasonably priced about the same as Rotella.
My wife's Toyota Corolla has 250,000+ miles on it and has had the Kendall since about 50,000 miles no engine problems.
 
John. I think I remember that you worked in an oil lab. I take it you are saying that most oils are pretty close to the same specs and performance. Can I ask your take on synthetic oils. I use Mobil 1 in everything I own. My skid steer and tractors don't see hours use and I change them yearly. My truck and wifes car every 5000 miles. Am I wasting money? Thanks.
 
I have put a lot of miles on cars over the past 30 years using store brand oil and Fram filters. I have been using the Fleet Farm store brand Resolute. Between my wife and I we put 30,000 miles per year on our cars and trucks. I change them every 4500 miles. So that is about 200 oil changes over the past 30 years and 900,000 miles of driving. Never had an engine problem. Wisconsin road salt gets them before the engines wear out.
 
Just curious why not Valvoline? It's about all I use in cars/pickups. Bigger stuff gets the cheapest no name oil I can find (Fleet Farm, TSC) but I don't run any of it for a living.
 
IF YOU GET A CHANCE TAKE A LOOK AT AN OIL ARTICAL ON LINE CALLED 540 RAT IT'S LONG BUT VERY INTERESTING. HIS PERSONAL FAVORITE IS Quaker State ultimate Durability Full
Syn.FOR GAS ENGINES.
 
In the paper mill we used all Mobil products, and their engineers would put on seminars, so I am inclined to use their products. That along with the huge rebates recently I use 15-40 Delvac in the tractors, 0-20 Mobil 1 in the Subaru.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with Rotella but I stopped doing any business with Valero/Citco for political reasons and will not go back unless/until things change in Venezuela.

Dean
 
Schaeffer?s 15w40 in diesels and whatever wt the gas motors call for. More importantly schaeffer?s grease. I have tried a lot of grease but theirs is the only one I?ve been pleased with
 
Isn't oil with the same specifications essentially all the same? Which is better Ford or Chevrolet? Brunettes or Blondes? Farmall or Deere?
 

Once in a blue moon I have ran across a engine that did not to be changed up on brands of motor oil, The same holds for a oil filter. Chrysler seams to be the worst and Nissan second. I would put it at 5 out of thousands over 44 years I use good name brand oil and filters now parts house branded junk.

Changing oil is a lost leader to start off with you are not going to save much so why try and make up a lost with cheap parts you will never see the lost lose ground unless you are doing 50 are more a day. The best way to stop the bleeding is to just add the extra cost to the job then buy in bulk to even the ground. As in your case that once in a year deal on the good stuff pops up jump in it.

When I go in a shop the first thing I look for is what oil filters they have stacked on a shelf if they are across the board house brand cheap filters you can bet your arse low bidder gets the contract on every other part they use also that includes the oil.

I am not trying to get into a pizz'N match that one is as good as the other the best I can do is install quality name branded parts and justify the extra cost as its the best I can do. I don't debate it with a customer if they want cheap they came to the wrong place...
 
Jd seller I've gotten mine from Edgewood oil delivered to Jesup for years as good a price as Sam's club I don't think any oil problems
 
I used Schaeffer's oil products years ago and it was a very good products. The only problem I had was finding a dealer close by that had their products and stocked what you needed.
 
(quoted from post at 09:14:00 12/03/17) Why pick on Venezuela? If you go to Walmart you are buying from Communist China.

Why Valero,, thats a San Antonio based company. Citgo, I understand,, but Valero?? They have refineries all over the US. They are a spin off of the Coastal States gas company.
 
I am a oil distributor..... Quaker State and Pennzoil is a shell oil product......any major brand Shell, Chevron, Exxon will be same quality......Full Synthetic sold my major oil Brands are not same as some synthetic sold by other special sellers ....you can add conventional oil to synthetic sold by majors.....not that way with special seller.......notice I have used the word sold by not manufactured.....oil are blended by various companies for various companies to the specs companies spec.......the company labs can not tell difference between brands if the meet spec .....they look for spec...ie additives......I Sell a major brand and a couple of blenders oil......stay away from snake oil special sellers
 
I believe oil is like rifles. A decent oil changed regularly is more good than the best oil not changed. Rifles are inherently more accurate than the average person can hold to prove how accurate it is.
Thus if you change oil regularly with a decent filter your problems will be minimal. I have used Rotella,Citgo and a local private label oil in things for several years,like about 20 with no oil related failures. And no apparent reduced life damage from it. I use the same oil in all the engines also. Only thing i don't use it in is for the 2 cycle engines.
 
I use CaseIH no 1 in all my equipment because Hammell Equipment offers free delivery to my farm with their bulk truck. I have them come when needed and fill both engine and hy-tran, then I don't have to unload and wrestle 55 gal barrels.
 
The ONLY stuff my dad will touch is Mobil or Shell. Every GM car in the world comes from the factory with Mobil in its tummy, and that's the only option for service work too. General Motors must trust them, so we do to.

On a side note, every couple of months 5 gal pails on Mobil 15-40 goes on sale at our local "North 40". There is a mail in rebate of $25 PER bucket, limit two. It ends up being cheaper per quart than we can even buy it bulk through my dads account at the dealer ship he has worked at for 35 years!
 
(quoted from post at 08:45:07 12/03/17) Every GM car in the world comes from the factory with Mobil in its tummy, and that's the only option for service work too. General Motors must trust them, so we do to.

It would not surprise me to find out that Mobil gives the oil and also pays GM to use their product.
Just to generate oil sales thereafter.
 
Some 30+ years ago, one of the major motorcycle magazines (maybe Cycle World, Cycle, Motorcyclist. or the equivalent) did and interesting research project. They took a pair of brand new Kawasaki 4-stroke four cylinder street bikes and drove them hard for something like 30,000 miles (guessing at that mileage), but these guys put their test bikes through their paces. One they did the regularly factory recommended and scheduled oil & filter changes. The second bike they did nothing to as far as oil/filter changes. Both had done to them whatever repairs popped up from time to time (eg. broken cable, maybe valve adjustments, etc), and of course, oil was topped up as necessary to keep the oil level correct. After the driving part was over, they tore down both engines and measured all clearances accurately. The conclusion was that there was no noticeable difference in engine wear between the two engines. I wish I could find a link to that article. To be honest, I think all this stuff with "I'll only buy brand X but never buy brand Y" is a bunch of hog wash. As long as the oil meets the specs for your engine, I really don't believe it makes a lot of difference.
 
Coonie Minnie: I had been running ALL JD oil in everything we owned for over 25 years. After the local dealer decided to screw with me on things I am looking long and hard at all purchases that involve him and JD COMPANY. JD COMPANY is driving this dealer chain BS and it is time for the farmers to make their opinions known on it.

I am adding to this statement with the local dealer. Last calendar year we did over $85K in parts alone and $10k in oil.(Son's repair shop and the farms included) Since he decided that our thirty day account was not good anymore I decided his store was not good for our business. We have not spent one single dime there since. Add in his closing the store in Cascade and he is not on any former Cascade customer favorite list. I kind of knew who his larger Cascade Parts customer where. We got together and pooled our business. We took bids from two other JD dealerships that where within driving distance. We now get weekly deliveries from one of them with a pretty good discount when we keep the orders above a certain dollar amount.

On top of that we are buying fewer JD parts. If it can be found from other suppliers for an equal or lower price we are going that way. My Daughter-in-law is our book keeper. She researches all parts purchases that are not emergency needed. She is finding lots of OEM parts online from none dealer sources. She figures she has already saved over $4K this quarter.

For the shop and farms we are switching to Rotella 15w40 oil. We can buy it cheaper in 55 gallon drums at Sam's right now. We are getting 8 this next week. They ordered them in for us. My son is getting bulk oil for the gas engines in his repair business. The bulk Rotella was higher prices than the drums we are getting. Plus we are setup for drums on pump dollies. Service truck too.

So that just left my personal vehicles oil. The wife and I do not drive enough to really need that much oil. I did not want to fool with filling containers out of the son's bulk oil. The two cars, SUV, and my gas pickup all use 5 qts. per change. So I wanted the convenience of the 5 qt. containers.
 
Crazy Horse: I know a local excavation contractor that gets new Ford diesel trucks each year. He keeps them washed and waxed plus the interiors clean. He puts 20-25K on them. He gets top trade-in for them. He NEVER changes the oil or filters on them. LOL There are local fellows lined up to buy his trade-in. The traded-in trucks do not seem to have any issues down the road.
 
Classic view only.

I once read that Valero imported a large amount of their crude from Venezuela.

This was some time ago, and I stopped doing business with Valero at that time.

Don't know if this is still so, and would reappraise my position if not.

Dean
 
Not quite the same, but I used to work with a guy who had a side job, he lived in Dearborn, in a neighborhood of small lots. He had a route of 20 lawns to mow, generally every week. He bought a brand new John Deere walk behind mower every year. Never changed oil, sold it at the end of the year, bought a snowblower, sold that. Never changed oil, never did any repairs. After 30 years, he could?ve bought and sold most of the managers at the plant.
 
To yours and Bruce's comments..................I started using Pennzoil, since it was the oil used in my first car. Then I switched to Trop-Artic. I bought my first diesel car in the late 1980's and switched to Mobil Delvac, as that oil cleaned up the internals of my cruddy diesel engine. I stayed with Mobil for a number of years, then went back to Trop Artic. For the past 10 years, I have been using Mobil One synthetic in my automobiles and Shell Rotella synthetic in my diesel truck. Been satisfied with all until one of the most recent cars I purchased. It is a 2004 Cadillac CTS with the 3.6 liter V6 engine. A very snappy engine, but it has developed what I have found to be a consistent appetite for oil, due to a poorly designed crankcase ventilation system. Some of the forums I have read, other owners have switched away from that oil and the consumption seems to have dropped. Our last car purchase recommends Castrol synthetic motor oil, with the change interval being yearly or at least every 10k miles.

To the original poster's question.....................I think going with any reputable brand of oil meeting the OEM's specifications will be just fine for you. I use a Cenex diesel engine oil in our farm tractors and that is based upon my father using that oil in the farm equipment for the past 40 years or more.
 
I have a friend who is a refinery engineer. He says that the difference is in the additives that different companies add to their oil. Switching to different brands means different additives, and that seals may swell or shrink due to the change in the additives. His advice is to pick a brand and stick with it.
On another note, my wife's Suburban was using a quart every 3 thousand miles when it was brand new. Dealer said that was within specs. We switched to Mobil One and that cured the problem. I've gone to synthetics in all my cars now, but use Chevron RPM Delo in the tractors.
 
allways use jd oil in jd tractors, and use napa oil in everything else, so far it has worked great, wouldnt use pensoil or quacker state in anything.
 
I?ve been there on that decision. I run rotella in all higher dollar farm and construction equipment, but have bought bulk ?house brand? 15w-40, 5w-30 and 10w-30 for all mowers, equipment and trucks at my company. I?ve gone over specs with my salesman and they are comparable. We do not have engine failures caused by oil. I will say that I do change oil and filters aggressively that might drive my guys nuts but saves money in the long run. I bought a bulk setup from a defunct auto dealership and ordering it and having it delivered sure is easy instead of pumping from drums for me. I don?t know if I should change everything to the bulk, the rotella has worked for a long time so i think I?m staying put. Side question on grease, I?ve had really good luck with Lucas green grease. Salesman delivers it and has worked great specifically in mower spindles
 
Rotella is a good oil. We use Mobil here, it has been very dependable.

Have you priced bulk? I would not go back to 55s if I could help it.
 
Ok, time for a little more info on oil. First and most important; "Full synthetic" is not synthetic at all. Not full, not partial, not mixed, not synthetic. You can believe me, or go study the MSDS for EVERY mfg syn oil. Somewhere hidden in the gobbledegook wording will be the fact that it is a hydrocracked, highly refined petroleum product. It all comes right out of the ground, and not from any lab. It started from one of the mfg calling their refined oil synthetic, and Mobil suing them. The upshot was that now, there is NO synthetic oil in the US, except some highly specific racing oils that are not sold retail.

Next. Oil changes. Back when we were kids, engines were loose. You know that, everyone just forgot. A 40wt oil was what we used to keep the metal from touching other metal, and it worked pretty good. Today, the clearances in a modern engine are about 1/4 to 1/10 what the clearances were back in the 60s. If you were to run a modern engine on 40wt, the molecular binding would very soon leave the bearing high and dry, and that would be the end of that. Today's weights are 10w-40, 5w-30, and in some cases a 0w-30. These are thin, thin oils, with a very light base. Because of such a light base, they do not hold products of combustion well, and they do not hold the friction modifiers which make them multi-vis capable well. There is always broken chain molecules happening with these light base oils, so oil change on time is even more critical. You can ask some MB owners about that, because MB had the pleasure of replacing hundreds of engines when they tried to up the change interval too high.

Further, the tightness of the emission system on modern engines don't allow them to blow off the products of combustion like they used to, so the oil tends to dilute much worse, and this is very serious on cars which are not run long and hard, but short cool trips that don't boil off the contaminants. If the mfg change interval is 15k miles, follow it - or suffer the consequences.

Next, additive packages. This is where each mfg gets to shine, or fail. Everyone has opinions on oil brands, and I will share this with you - when Mobil came out with their aviation Mobil 1 synthetic for piston aircraft engines, they are the only mfg that has actually killed people from an known oil failure in flight. You can look that up at ntsb.gov if you are that interested. I will not use a Mobil/Exxon product ever again. I also know for certain that various auto mfg get marketing deals from various oil makers to specify their product. Porsche worked with Shell for many years, and now works with Mobil.

Finally, what to use? P66 is an expert in industrial lubricants. Also aviation oils and fuels. So is Shell. I would say it's hard to go wrong with a brand that makes aviation products, and also commercial lubricants for oil field, machinery, mining, etc. I've been using Valvoline, Shell or P66 exclusively for years, and have yet to suffer any oil related failure. My only complaint about Shell is that they rarely offer any financial incentives or sales. Once in a while, but not as often as Valvoline. I tend to stay away from the PA crude(Valvoline, Pennzoil) because they start with a very high ash content due to the nature of where they are getting their crude. I use Castrol 2 stroke oil in various two stroke engines and have had great success with that, so I stick with it. I'm sure Shell makes a good two stroke oil as well, but I'm not changing unless there's a major reason.
 
I have heard the different between good or poor oils are made from the type of base stock used. Base stock is divided into 4 groups. Group 1 is used in the off brands oils. Group 2 and 3 are used by major oil companies. Group 4 is used or goes into the full synthetic oils. Base stock is the quality of the oil when pulled from the ground.
 
Asking which brand of oil is best is like asking what color is the most attractive. Except for some brand x oils they are pretty much all alike. The difference comes in on the person doing the maintenance. If it's done on a timely basis you won't know the difference. It's the person that waits until they get 10-15 thousand miles on a oil change and then says that brand of oil is no good.
 
Castrol is my 2 cycle oil too. Might have just got lucky a long time ago when that?s what the AC delco dealership sold us. I stayed with it when
others were trying to sell me some synthetic 2 cycle oil. I get extreme hours and years out of hard daily used 2 cycle equipment.
 
(quoted from post at 08:04:47 12/04/17) Ok, time for a little more info on oil. First and most important; "Full synthetic" is not synthetic at all. Not full, not partial, not mixed, not synthetic. You can believe me, or go study the MSDS for EVERY mfg syn oil. Somewhere hidden in the gobbledegook wording will be the fact that it is a hydrocracked, highly refined petroleum product. It all comes right out of the ground, and not from any lab. It started from one of the mfg calling their refined oil synthetic, and Mobil suing them. The upshot was that now, there is NO synthetic oil in the US, except some highly specific racing oils that are not sold retail.

Next. Oil changes. Back when we were kids, engines were loose. You know that, everyone just forgot. A 40wt oil was what we used to keep the metal from touching other metal, and it worked pretty good. Today, the clearances in a modern engine are about 1/4 to 1/10 what the clearances were back in the 60s. If you were to run a modern engine on 40wt, the molecular binding would very soon leave the bearing high and dry, and that would be the end of that. Today's weights are 10w-40, 5w-30, and in some cases a 0w-30. These are thin, thin oils, with a very light base. Because of such a light base, they do not hold products of combustion well, and they do not hold the friction modifiers which make them multi-vis capable well. There is always broken chain molecules happening with these light base oils, so oil change on time is even more critical. You can ask some MB owners about that, because MB had the pleasure of replacing hundreds of engines when they tried to up the change interval too high.

Further, the tightness of the emission system on modern engines don't allow them to blow off the products of combustion like they used to, so the oil tends to dilute much worse, and this is very serious on cars which are not run long and hard, but short cool trips that don't boil off the contaminants. If the mfg change interval is 15k miles, follow it - or suffer the consequences.

Next, additive packages. This is where each mfg gets to shine, or fail. Everyone has opinions on oil brands, and I will share this with you - when Mobil came out with their aviation Mobil 1 synthetic for piston aircraft engines, they are the only mfg that has actually killed people from an known oil failure in flight. You can look that up at ntsb.gov if you are that interested. I will not use a Mobil/Exxon product ever again. I also know for certain that various auto mfg get marketing deals from various oil makers to specify their product. Porsche worked with Shell for many years, and now works with Mobil.

Finally, what to use? P66 is an expert in industrial lubricants. Also aviation oils and fuels. So is Shell. I would say it's hard to go wrong with a brand that makes aviation products, and also commercial lubricants for oil field, machinery, mining, etc. I've been using Valvoline, Shell or P66 exclusively for years, and have yet to suffer any oil related failure. My only complaint about Shell is that they rarely offer any financial incentives or sales. Once in a while, but not as often as Valvoline. I tend to stay away from the PA crude(Valvoline, Pennzoil) because they start with a very high ash content due to the nature of where they are getting their crude. I use Castrol 2 stroke oil in various two stroke engines and have had great success with that, so I stick with it. I'm sure Shell makes a good two stroke oil as well, but I'm not changing unless there's a major reason.

Add 0w20 and 0W16 to dat.
 
I know a guy thats used nothing but Wal-Mart 10W40 Super Tech oil in all of his vehicles for years and
one is close to 200,000 miles with no problems...He changes every 3000 miles..I myself am
not loyal to any one brand of oil..
 
I have heard Rotella contains more sulphur to better lube roller cams. That might be why truckers seem to stick to Rotella. Could be truckers are just following the herd, I don’t know. Saturday my son started to do an overhead on a series 60 Detroit with 400,000 miles. When he beamed the light down on the camshaft he saw flaked lobes so he buttoned it back up. This is a fleet truck owned by a local feed mill and I don’t know what they use for oil. Might even be Rotella. I can only assume they do regular oil changes.
 
(quoted from post at 19:08:26 12/03/17) I have heard the different between good or poor oils are made from the type of base stock used. Base stock is divided into 4 groups. Group 1 is used in the off brands oils. Group 2 and 3 are used by major oil companies. Group 4 is used or goes into the full synthetic oils. Base stock is the quality of the oil when pulled from the ground.

This is accurate. I didn't want to get into the grades of base oil stock. Almost all retail products are made from group 4 base. Not all, but most.
 
(quoted from post at 21:34:45 12/03/17) I have heard Rotella contains more sulphur to better lube roller cams. That might be why truckers seem to stick to Rotella. Could be truckers are just following the herd, I don’t know. Saturday my son started to do an overhead on a series 60 Detroit with 400,000 miles. When he beamed the light down on the camshaft he saw flaked lobes so he buttoned it back up. This is a fleet truck owned by a local feed mill and I don’t know what they use for oil. Might even be Rotella. I can only assume they do regular oil changes.

Sulfur is is not a good lubricant. In fact, it's too caustic for most engine metals. Zinc, in the form of ZDDP is best for resisting cam spalling. Some of the 'high mileage' or 'vintage car' oils have ZDDP levels of 1100 or 1200ppm, and are good for flat tappet and roller tappet cams, where the spring pressure is significant.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top