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Deck-over tilt bed 14k trailers....opinions??

E

Eldon (WA)

Well-known Member
I'm thinking of ditching my 20+5 gn deck-over trailer with mega ramps and getting a bumper pull 22' hydraulic tilt bed. The payload would be about the same...but I am a bit concerned about loading when the deck is wet, and some of my tractors do not have a parking brake that works reliably to hold them at that angle until the bed is lowered. I sure would like the tail ground clearance for some of the ditches and driveways that I cross...and not having to find a spot where the ramps will go down. Anyone out there have one and would like to comment?
 
What about the kind that tilts back down due to gravity, not a hydraulic jack? Seems that would be quicker and easier.
I have a 16' bumper pull that I use all the time but it is too short really. I have to stick the loader over the front
of the trailer. I want to look at the 22' gravity tilt bumper pull ones.
 
(quoted from post at 19:14:33 11/29/17) What about the kind that tilts back down due to gravity, not a hydraulic jack? Seems that would be quicker and easier.
I have a 16' bumper pull that I use all the time but it is too short really. I have to stick the loader over the front
of the trailer. I want to look at the 22' gravity tilt bumper pull ones.
Click to expand...

I saw one that said "gravity tilt" but it still had a cylinder and box on the tongue....which I assumed had a pump in it. Do they still use a pump if you need it? Seems it was more $$$ than a regular tilt...
 
had one and it is a pain to load when wet or snow try loading two tractors not fun . get a dove tail with Hyd. lift.have a 22 ft with 6 ft dove tail that lifts level with deck ends up with 28 ft level deck
 
I have a gravity tilt bed at work.
Least favorite one to use.have to
stand on bed to lower it then start
backing on, it tilts back up when you
get past center. Then you have to be
half on the front deck that doesn't
tilt that usually makes it ton tongue
heavy. Then you hope the deck landed
right so you can lock the pins in. The
cylinder is just a big dampener for
tilting back to flat, but you still
hit hard. Would only be able to haul
on tractor at a time.
 
I have used or owned numerous trailers and here is my two cents worth. H&H with hydraulic cylinder that you jack up the front of the trailer to drove on; my least favorite, couldn't get rid of it soon enough. Electric hydraulic lift with push button up and down; better but still a pain unless someone is there to help you. Alumina and other manual tilt with a cylinder that you open and close a valve to allow the bed to go up or down; better than either of the other two but the only time I use the valve is loading two smaller items where you load one and don't want the bed to go down until you load the other. May not be what you are looking at but I don't like a trailer where the deck isn't level after you load the tractor. I don't trust the brake locks on the tractor and can't always shut the tractor off. Also hard to use with a winch. I only want a flat deck over with beaver tail and ramps. As a side note, I always thought Dexter axels were the only way to go. My latest 2 year old PJ with 12,000 axels has been nothing but trouble. Axels weren't lined up properly and ruined 4 tires, Brake pads came off one wheel and almost ruined the hub. All wheel seals leak so much I have to refill the oil for every long trip. Neither PJ or Dexter will pay for any of the repairs. Don't trust that a new trailer was built right.
 
(quoted from post at 19:57:10 11/29/17) I have used or owned numerous trailers and here is my two cents worth. H&H with hydraulic cylinder that you jack up the front of the trailer to drove on; my least favorite, couldn't get rid of it soon enough. Electric hydraulic lift with push button up and down; better but still a pain unless someone is there to help you. Alumina and other manual tilt with a cylinder that you open and close a valve to allow the bed to go up or down; better than either of the other two but the only time I use the valve is loading two smaller items where you load one and don't want the bed to go down until you load the other. May not be what you are looking at but I don't like a trailer where the deck isn't level after you load the tractor. I don't trust the brake locks on the tractor and can't always shut the tractor off. Also hard to use with a winch. I only want a flat deck over with beaver tail and ramps. As a side note, I always thought Dexter axels were the only way to go. My latest 2 year old PJ with 12,000 axels has been nothing but trouble. Axels weren't lined up properly and ruined 4 tires, Brake pads came off one wheel and almost ruined the hub. All wheel seals leak so much I have to refill the oil for every long trip. Neither PJ or Dexter will pay for any of the repairs. Don't trust that a new trailer was built right.
Click to expand...

Was your PJ built in Ohio? My last one was, and it wore tires out pretty fast...the first two I had were built in Texas and tires showed little wear after 40,000 miles....

I guess I need to go back to a 19 +3' PJ bp built in Texas...will probably have to order one as no one likes to stock the 22', but anything bigger and I run into length problems...or I might keep the gn and get a 20' PJ bp...it will haul my work related stuff with an inch or so to spare....and for road trips I can take the gn.
 
I've built a few that do that and with 16"
tires and axles far enough back to make
balancing the load easy the angle gets
pretty steep unless your 30'+ long. I dood
2 25' goosenecks and ended up having to
make the axles slide forward for loading to
get them to work well.
 
Some of the tractor ride guys have a remote for the tilt so they stay in the seat and raise and lower to load and unload.
 
(quoted from post at 20:33:12 11/29/17) Some of the tractor ride guys have a remote for the tilt so they stay in the seat and raise and lower to load and unload.
Click to expand...

I saw that when I was looking for a trailer last year, but haven't found the remotes listed now....
 
Eldon I owned a P&J 24 single wheel, tandem axle, hydraulic tilt goose neck trailer. I hated that trailer. To get the tilt angle to where you could load they had the axles almost in the middle. The trailer would beat you to death when empty. It really hammered the ball hitch.

It did have a remote to tilt the trailer while you where on the tractor. The tilt angle was livable but was steep for cars.

I traded it in on a dualed tandem 22+9 hydraulic rear deck trailer. I love this trailer. No heavy ramps to flip or handle. It is nice to have the extra clearance under the tail when it is up.

Mine is a Mustang Brand trailer. My brother has a Load-Max and it is a good trailer too.

Here is a picture of mine.

P.S. I posted this same picture when I got this tractor. I got beat on for NOT having the tractor CHAINED down. LOL I was unloading the tractor. I guess you have to have guide chains tied to other tractors to unload. LOL
a179296.jpg
 
Hydraulic dove gooseneck. Boss has a Big Tex and it works great
for him. Why would you want to go to a bumper-pull?
 
H@H makes one you are coeect when wet its a problem just need to find the rite spot sometimes. maybe a couple of 2x12s short could help that way you wouldnt need too sharp of an angle.
 
(quoted from post at 20:53:56 11/29/17) Eldon I owned a P&J 24 single wheel, tandem axle, hydraulic tilt goose neck trailer. I hated that trailer. To get the tilt angle to where you could load they had the axles almost in the middle. The trailer would beat you to death when empty. It really hammered the ball hitch.

It did have a remote to tilt the trailer while you where on the tractor. The tilt angle was livable but was steep for cars.

I traded it in on a dualed tandem 22+9 hydraulic rear deck trailer. I love this trailer. No heavy ramps to flip or handle. It is nice to have the extra clearance under the tail when it is up.

Mine is a Mustang Brand trailer. My brother has a Load-Max and it is a good trailer too.

Here is a picture of mine.

P.S. I posted this same picture when I got this tractor. I got beat on for NOT having the tractor CHAINED down. LOL I was unloading the tractor. I guess you have to have guide chains tied to other tractors to unload. LOL
a179296.jpg
Click to expand...

I can't find one short enough with a hydraulic tail....PJ's start at 32'!
 
(quoted from post at 21:13:00 11/29/17) Hydraulic dove gooseneck. Boss has a Big Tex and it works great
for him. Why would you want to go to a bumper-pull?
Click to expand...

I've had 22' bumper pulls in the past and they track better on narrow curvy driveways. The 25' gn I have now, the inside tires are tracking on the customers lawn whereas the bp usually will not. I have some tight driveways that are a pain with the gn too. Also coming up a steep drive onto a level road I have almost hit the bed of my truck with the gn frame. That is the last thing I want to do. It would probably help if I wasn't pulling it with a crew cab long bed dually, but the long wheelbase diesel truck really handles a bp well.
 
Eldon

We have a P. J. Deck over trailer that I love for hauling things that are not excessively heavy. It has a rubber infused planking on the floor that loads and unloads equally well wet or dry and has the
wireless remote tilt that you can raise or lower the deck from your shirt pocket. It also has the hand winches mounted on the driver side for the tie downs like the larger trailers have. It also has a electric
winch if you need to load something that needs help. I don't have a very good picture but I will post what I have. Another thing I like about this trailer is you can put positive pressure on the cylinders to hold the deck down against the frame when empty and take out all the noise and pounding like you have with a gravity tilt.
a179309.jpg

a179310.jpg
 
Couple of strips of expanded metal will give you much better traction on a wet deck. And for the cheapskates among us, some asphalt shingles put on with roofing nails work almost as good. And pretty cheap to replace if they get mossy in the winter.
 
I have a 28 foot PJ bumper pull tilt trailer with 8,000 lb axles. When the deck is wet, it is real fun to try to get a tractor on the trailer. Other than that, I really like the trailer.
 
I bought my PJ bumper pull 24 FT. 14,000 lb. low pro file about 5 years ago. I didn't have it a year and they contacted me wanting to put a hydraulic dove
on it. I didn't do it because it add another 500 lbs. to trailers empty weight.
 
(quoted from post at 23:13:55 11/29/17) I bought my PJ bumper pull 24 FT. 14,000 lb. low pro file about 5 years ago. I didn't have it a year and they contacted me wanting to put a hydraulic dove
on it. I didn't do it because it add another 500 lbs. to trailers empty weight.
Click to expand...

Now they only offer them on the triple axle trailers 32' long and up....too much trailer for me. As soon as you get 3 axles or a tandem dually trailer you are a DOT magnet out here....
 
Have you ever thought of putting winch on trailer with a remote along with remote for tilt of bed. With winch with remote you set in tractor and winch it 0n and
let tilt down with remote. If your afraid of brake lock shut off tractor and put it in gear. I have had my trailer 5 years and go to pulls and shows that they
make you park in some rough fields and I have yet to drag the dovetail. I did have to raise the ramp stands several inches.
a179320.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 23:44:49 11/29/17) Have you ever thought of putting winch on trailer with a remote along with remote for tilt of bed. With winch with remote you set in tractor and winch it 0n and
let tilt down with remote. If your afraid of brake lock shut off tractor and put it in gear. I have had my trailer 5 years and go to pulls and shows that they
make you park in some rough fields and I have yet to drag the dovetail. I did have to raise the ramp stands several inches.
a179320.jpg
Click to expand...

I use the trailer for business and some days I load/unload 10 times or more during garden tilling season. That tractor has a hydraulic high/low powershift, so it won't hold itself in gear when the engine isn't running. My mowing tractor will hold in gear, might even bump start it when unloading if I back it on :)
My 22' PJ that I sold last spring....
mvphoto6898.jpg


mvphoto6899.jpg
 

Pic of the 20+5 gn. I like the megaramps for loading, but it just doesn't work for hauling most of my equipment. To be balanced right, I should back this tractor on, put up the ramps, get back on the tractor and center it more on the ramps....then repeat to unload. Way to cumbersome...and the ramps get in the way of chaining stuff down. Also I cannot load anything longer than 20' on this trailer and still put the ramps down flat, they have to stand up, and as you can see they are like a parachute behind when they are vertical. Also notice how close to the ground the tail of the trailer is compared to the other one.
mvphoto6901.jpg
 
I looked at those when I ordered my trailer and thought they were to heavy. I went with the 3 stand up ramps that you can move tire width of tractors.
a179323.jpg
 
Another idea, IF you happen to have some old car tires laying around somewhere, would be to cut off the sidewalls so that the tread lays flat, then cut the tread into whatever lengths you choose and screw the sections to your trailer decking.

I like Coshoo's suggestion of using expanded metal, as that would allow the wood to dry after getting wet, helping the wood last longer. However, old tires are REALLY cheap! :wink:

If you use tire tread, I think I'd want to lay it out side-to-side rather than lengthwise, so that your tractor tires have a little more to bite into - usually on auto tires, the grooves go lengthwise around the tread.

...Not sure how much I'd trust shingles to not tear when loading a tractor onto them. And like with rubber tread, I'd want to remove it when not using it to allow the wood to dry.

Another idea might be to get some Tightbond II wood glue (is fairly inexpensive and waterproof) and spread the glue onto your dry decking boards, then add some course sand. Let the glue dry and you not only have traction, but extra water protection for your decking.
 
My first thought is to add a winch to the front of trailer either mounted to bed and removable or to front of trailer high enough to not
interfer with lift. We have monster ramps on new trailer and I leave them upright instead of foldind down flat most of the time. They
are heavy but much nicer for loading than either the 2 or 3 ramps.

Joe
 
Well, you have a gob of replies to your question but here goes anyway.
First off, I would not give up the goose neck. You will not like a bumper hitch after having the former. (been there)
Presently, I have a goose neck with a hydraulic tilt. They offered an option of a wireless remote to tilt the trailer.... best thing I ever did! I can load/unload those old tractors with poor (no) brakes and raise/lower the bed and never have to leave the tractor seat. Best thing I've squandered my money on. With regard to the slick deck, The beaver tail is diamond plate steel which is fine for the rubber tires but the Dozer is dangerous so I welded cross bars on that portion. No further issues. As to the slick deck, I simply sand the deck. Nothing else works when the deck is ice covered. Just my experience.
 
Bit of advice, before accepting any trailer take it for a test tow empty. If it doesn't tow smooth the axles aren't aligned and you will have nothing but trouble.

It's not the manufacturer of the axle, it's the assembler of the trailer who screwed up.
 
Hi, I put a block about 10" thick under the rear lip of
the trailer in the middle so when its tipped the
trailer and ramps are not steep. Ed Will Oliver BC
 
I would not even think of loading a Cat on anything but a tilt. That breakover going up a ramp is where you will get killed.No hydro necessary.A good tilt will drop by itself.
 
Hi, I put a block about 10" thick under the rear lip of
the trailer in the middle so when its tipped the
trailer and ramps are not steep. Ed Will Oliver BC
 
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