Help splitting a tractor

chas036 · Nov 26, 2017

I have a JD 3020 that I need to replace the clutch . My shed has a gravel floor and I don't have any access to a smooth concrete surface. Is there any methods or secrets that you can tell me for doing this on a non concrete or non smooth surface? I will be doing this by myself. I don't have any access to an extra set of hands for help.

flhr62 · Nov 26, 2017

Had to pull a motor out in the field. Used a rolling gantry on 2x12's

tim s · Nov 26, 2017

With out splitting stands or a cement floor you are going to be fighting it all the way,,it may not end well....

DGinVT · Nov 26, 2017

The last time I split my 8N was using a 4 X 8 sheet of green plywood on a level section my gravel floor in our barn.
Worked well with not problems and made it easier to move the two halves apart. Made it cleaner to work on.

Weldon K · Nov 26, 2017

Rake the gravel/dirt floor smooth them put a 1/2 or 3/4 inch sheet of plywood as a smooth working surface. Rear end of tractor can be supported by a hydraulic bottle jack on wooden blocks. Chocks in front of and behind rear wheels. Front half can be supported by a splitting stand with small wheels of some sort to allow forward movement of front half when split is made . Possibly you could put some sort of cradle under engine and put two hydraulic jacks under it, one on each side for side-to-side leveling alignment. Set these jacks on wooden blocks set on several pieces of pipe used as rollers resting on the plywood. Picture shows what I built some years ago to split IH tractors. It is on plywood on a dirt floor.

DeltaRed · Nov 26, 2017

I have a dirt floor too. and a splitting stand similar to the one shown. I use 3/4" plywood or OSB;or 2x lumber.Have done several tractor splits using this method.Last month I did a TA job on a 1456 'on the dirt'

Mike(NEOhio) · Nov 26, 2017

I split my Ford with a rolling floor jack under the transmission. Put it on two long angle irons with the handle out the back. Jacked the front half. But that's much smaller and lower.

old · Nov 26, 2017

I do them on and off a whole lot. My shop has a dirt floor but I have an I-beam in the over head and 4 chain hoists hanging on it and 3 are on trollies splitting a tractor is easy. Just did a clutch job on an 8N a couple of weeks ago

showcrop · Nov 26, 2017

It should not be a big deal. Many guys support the back and roll the front. I suppose maybe because the front looks smaller? But it is way easier to roll the back for two main reasons: First the front is inherently unstable because of the pivot, even when tightly wedged. Second; those much larger rear tires give you soooo much leverage when you go to push. Like huge built in pry levers. So, support the front with cribbing and wedges or better yet a splitting stand. I made one for my Ford 9000 out of an eight by eight and some three inch angle stock that I bolt into the oil pan. Then attach a trailer jack to the side of the transmission, with a wide plank or plywood under the wheel. Those 38 or 42 inch rears will roll easily on the stone, and with the jack bolted to the side of the transmission you could not tip it if you tried.

Don S. · Nov 26, 2017

If all else fails and your tractor has a wide front end, you can connect the front and rear with a chain on each side. Stepping on the chain on one side, then the other, will close the gap a little at a time. Time consuming, but can work. I once did it with a 300 Case on an uneven dirt floor.

shaun wallace · Nov 26, 2017

I have piece of 3/16s plate about 10ft long and couple feet wide that I use.

Tech 7 · Nov 26, 2017

I can't recommend a good way without concrete. I have taken too many combine transmission out using a floor jack and plywood and that is NOT fun.
Going apart is never an issue. Back together is the problem of course. To keep everything aligned will be difficult, it will be hard to tell if the resistance is because of misalignment or something dragging on the plywood or OSB(!)

oldproudvet · Nov 26, 2017

I use 2 lengths of 6" wide channel iron, probably 4 ft in length. Things roll well on it

tomstractorsandtoys · Nov 26, 2017

Do you or a neighbor have a level concrete spot outside? There is nothing that water will hurt(rain or even snow) when doing a clutch job and if you buy the complete kit you should be able to do it in a day by yourself. The post below say level your shed floor and use plywood and that will work. I would cut a sheet of 3/4 plywood in half and double it up to roll a floor jack and push the back half away from the front. If by yourself use plenty of extra blocking to be safe. Tom

Stephen Newell · Nov 26, 2017

Just put down a few sheets of OSB subfloor. If the ground is damp you might put down some plastic first but the wood will hold up to jacks. Just this week I moved a two ton planer across a dirt floor shop on just 7/16" OSB, rolling it on a pallet jack.

Weldon K · Nov 26, 2017

"if you buy the complete kit you should be able to do it in a day by yourself."
Probably need to take the flywheel to machine shop and get it surface ground smooth and bolting step surface ground to new dimension specs. Some shops might would do that while you wait if you are lucky. I've never been that lucky !

RodinNS · Nov 26, 2017

A half sheet of 1/4" plate between the front wheels and a floor jack under the pan... Wedge the front axle solid. Level the ground the best you can first. It's really far less of a big deal than it's being made out to be. Really no worse than an unfinished concrete floor.. I almost always roll the front. One: you can steer it if necessary. Two: it is lighter. Your mileage may vary.

Rod

4520BW · Nov 26, 2017

When I worked for deere I was sent out by myself to pull a 4400 tranny with a floor jack and plywood. No one told the shop the tranny broke because the combine was stuck!took me alot of shoveling to get it out but did not need the jack with the mud under it.

JD Seller · Nov 26, 2017

I can't resist this!!!! LOL Splitting it is EASY it is the getting it back together that is harder. LOL

The other posters have covered what you need to do. Basically get some thing solid to cover the dirt/gravel floor to roll a floor jack on. layers of plywood, sheet steel, channel iron, etc. I have split tractors outside on a slab of concrete. I would do that before using a dirt floor.

Wheat47 · Nov 26, 2017

Everyone has posted some great suggestions. One thing I used to do
when going back together. I would push them as close together as possible.
Then hook up a come-a-long and GENTLY pull them together, turning the
flywheel with a screwdriver against the starter ring gear.
If you force it with the come-a-long, it's easy to screw up all kinds
of things, like pressure plates, bearings, and seals to name a few.
Using headless dowel bolts helps line up things a lot, too.
I often used a tape measure to be sure the top and bottom and
side to side measurements were very close, to be sure things
were coming together straight and square. Work smart, not hard!!

Oliver 500 Wa · Nov 27, 2017

.....Picture shows what I built some years ago to split IH tractors. It is on plywood on a dirt floor.

I really like the look of this! I'm considering a split on my tractor this winter and after seeing this, I think I will build something similar. Looks way handier than using the floor jack.

rustyfarmall · Nov 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 15:15:31 11/26/17)
It should not be a big deal. Many guys support the back and roll the front. I suppose maybe because the front looks smaller? But it is way easier to roll the back for two main reasons: First the front is inherently unstable because of the pivot, even when tightly wedged. Second; those much larger rear tires give you soooo much leverage when you go to push. Like huge built in pry levers. So, support the front with cribbing and wedges or better yet a splitting stand. I made one for my Ford 9000 out of an eight by eight and some three inch angle stock that I bolt into the oil pan. Then attach a trailer jack to the side of the transmission, with a wide plank or plywood under the wheel. Those 38 or 42 inch rears will roll easily on the stone, and with the jack bolted to the side of the transmission you could not tip it if you tried.

BINGO!!! I have ALWAYS supported the front, and rolled the rear half. I made my own splitting stands for my Farmalls. It is influenced by the O.T.C. stands we used when I worked for a Deere dealer back in the era of the 4020s.

Alan K · Nov 27, 2017

That is the way we did it in Vo-Tech, stabilize the front and move the rear
back.

rustyfarmall · Nov 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 08:18:07 11/27/17) That is the way we did it in Vo-Tech, stabilize the front and move the rear
back.

Yes. You and a helper, each pushing against a rear tire, can roll the 2 halves apart very easily, and push it back together again after the repair is made.

Help splitting a tractor

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