Ordered some new plough shares

Bruce from Can. · Nov 24, 2017

As I new the ones that I put on last year were about done. Then I went out and started turning some corn stubble. Seems like I should have ordered the new shares last week. Broke the tip off one , and had to swap on my spare. New set will be in first of next week. I don't know about the rest of you, but I never liked changing plough shares. Always seems to cost me some blood before I am done.

casecollectorsc · Nov 24, 2017

I found out many years ago not to hold the bolt in with your thumb and spin the nut with a impact wrench. Gives you a bloody circle on your thumb.

Adirondack case guy · Nov 24, 2017

I know what you mean about the blood. I have a permanently scared fore finger on my left hand from trying to hold in a plow bolt while using a impact wrench on the nut. I'm smarter now.
After that happened, I found that welding the bolt heads to the shears before trying to remove them works much better, but it has to have been 30 years since I changed the last set of shears on a plow.
Loren

centash · Nov 24, 2017

Use a torch, no more circle scars,lol. Ben

Adirondack case guy · Nov 24, 2017

Steve, we will have to get together some day and compare scars from making repairs to CASE equipment.
Loren

DeltaRed · Nov 24, 2017

I always coat the threads with anti-sieze'. They always come right off.The nice thing about a rollover plow is the share bolts are 'topside',looking right at you.LOL change one side,roll it over and change the other side....

Billy NY · Nov 24, 2017

I don't know if it would work for anyone else, but I have generously applied anti-sieze to the nuts/bolts and surrounding mating surfaces after replacing wear parts on my 2 small plows. Anything exposed will wear off, but I figured just the threaded area would make a difference. I can still loosen the nuts with tools, saving the hot wrench for any that may not. Plows are stored outside, but on blocks, and I clean the dirt off them front/back, then coat the moldboards with paint when done.

Farmer & friend I worked with years ago, had me weld worn shares onto existing ones on his plow, providing more wear surface. I had never heard of doing this, but gladly welded them on, and saw that his plow did a nice job. At some point he must have to pull those and replace with new, but he said he'd get 30 or more acres out of it in these soils. I used 5/16" 7018 and my Miller NT 251 on DC, heat set at 130 if I recall. None broke in these rocky soils, but I was thinking different when doing this, amazing what 7018 can hold together.

SVcummins · Nov 24, 2017

I use a die grinder with cut off wheel to split the nut on any of em that won?t come loose

onefarmer · Nov 24, 2017

I always use the flame wrench when changing mine. Not so much rusted on as hard to get the socket on with all the dirt packed up in there.

mjbrown · Nov 24, 2017

I've done that too and it worked well. I also welded 1/4" flat stock to the edge of the shins.

CWL · Nov 24, 2017

I have a nice circle scarred into the palm of my left hand from that.

J. Schwiebert · Nov 24, 2017

You got that right! We always thought the roll over plow guys got more acres on a set of points than they did on the normal moleboard plow.

oldsarge · Nov 24, 2017

I wonder why you guys up north never learned to spell "plow" correctly.......................................gtm

caterpillar guy · Nov 24, 2017

I just put a pry on the back side to hold the bolt from turning the weld the bolt in for the second or third use. Family has always been to cheap to buy new bolts till they were out of old ones.
I have welded old points on top of old ones on the plow and get about 70 acres out of the set. By the time they will not go in the ground they are worn out so a new set on after that for the next round.

kenbob · Nov 24, 2017

The other orange company (Allis) had a share with only 1 bolt holding it on, if I remember right. Had a rusty one and I was surprised at how easy it was to take it off. ONLY to find that because of the usual odd Allis engineering, nobody makes replacements anymore. I did see some for sale for $170 a pop.

Frank 41 · Nov 24, 2017

Earl ILL showed me some points that I forgot for what plows or shares they would fit but it was to hold the plow in the ground.

2510Paul · Nov 24, 2017

For those of you who grace the JD Forum, I recently posted pictures about my putting new wear parts on my 4200 Rollover Plow.

One thing I noted in the JD Parts List was the many different lengths of bolts, both the plow bolt heads and the clipped head bolts. It occurred to me they did that to minimize the exposed threads so when you take the nut off the bolt you have fewer threads to traverse that are full of paint, dirt, or deformation. Cool.

So, I found if I sawed off the excess thread and then used the impact I had less issue getting the nuts off. I of course also let them soak in penetrating oil.

Ya, I got one of those circle scars also. Gosh it hurt.

Paul

Dave Sherburne, NY · Nov 24, 2017

After you put the new shares on, put the nuts you took off when removing the old shares on the new bolts to cover the threads that would be exposed to the mud and everything else that jamb up the threads. Most of the time the old nut you put on after the new nut will keep the threads clean so you can easily get both nuts off

SVcummins · Nov 24, 2017

The old John Deere plows have a share like that to
they were called blacksmith shares I was in an old
farm store the other day and they had a few old
style shares like that not sure for what brand

buickanddeere · Nov 24, 2017

Neighbour made his mouldboards out of plastic . He is ploughing in Kenya today.

farmer boy · Nov 25, 2017

Same reason you never learned to spell cheque right. Seems to be a thing with non american english and adding a U where ever possible. Colour, neighbour, cheque, plough. Funny thing is though, it's a snow plow, and not a snow plough.

Leroy · Nov 25, 2017

When I was farming did not have anti-sieze. I know how to take a deep suck throw away share and use it to rebuild the blacksmith sharpen type of share but mt health would not allow it now. I also have hammered a lot of those blacksmith sharpen shares. The blade type just are not worth having, need the deep suck type. First plow to use the throw away could not get a deep suck for, Oliver, and traded it off after 1 year on John Deere with blacksmith share and had it till no longer farming. I just sold a bunch or rebuilt shares, new noses and edges rebuilt 30 years ago.

Ordered some new plough shares

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