Turning brake rotors

37chief

Well-known Member
Location
California
I had the rotors turned on my Dodge 3500 tractor hauler. they wobbled. I had to take them back for another cut. This was a couple years ago. Today I took my hubs with attached rotors from my E450 to another place this time. Haven't got them on to check the run out. Charged 15.00 for each one, which I thought was a good price. The owner said I should use Napa calipers, and Ford pads. There is so may grades, and manufactures of pads he may be right to go with Ford original equipment. He also said to use Napa calipers. Any thoughts? I had a good day got in a mowing job also. Stan
 
Ditto on the Ford pads. I work as a service manager in an independent repair shop, every Ford that comes in gets Ford pads. They cost about the same as any aftermarket. Plus they stop smooth and quiet. Always use Napa calipers due to price and convince, plus lifetime warranty. They probably are no better than any other though.
 
Are you talking about Ford pads, or Motorcraft pads? I tend to stay away from OEM brake pads but they are good for most people.

I would select a caliper that didn't use phenolic (plastic) pistons. There are pros/cons to each but I see more cons for the plastic. I'm not sure if napa offers a choice there.
 
Just for giggles. Take a look at these Rocket Stoves. This one uses an old brake rotor. There are several designs on here. They get pretty dang hot. Is very similar to an old Caboose oil drip pot stove. If you have a nice tight caboose that stove will heat the whole place up in a few hours.
rocket stove
 

I think I told you how to check replacement Calipers If not check them on the table with a block of wood and air pressure. The best pads are Akebono, Akebono is an OEM Manufacture Looks like OEM is the way to go. Second is NAPA Fleet pads may be called sever duty and there Ultra pads are OK also on 1/2 ton pick ups. Wagner are the worst in my opinion because I have had so many noise issues with them. The best brake parts I have used were Bendex but locally they are not available anymore. My main supplier went to Wagner I tried them they are junk in my opinion I think I had to replace every set I installed :(

Even If I replaced the rotors with new they would get resurfaced its a job to do on a captured rotor you got a deal and if he's good at it even a better deal.

Question do you know what the minimum discard thickness is on your rotors if not did the shop that turned them question you about the extract application the rotors came off of and check them for discard thickness. If not then I would question it you can not look at them and go by how thick they are they have a engineered specification its there for a reason.
 
I thought you rebuilt your old calipers ?

I had a 1996 ram 2500 and it had goofy rotors that you have to remove the studs to remove them. I took to several places most said could not turn. I called one guy said he could. So I dropped them off there. Well he could not turn them ! made me upset as he had driven the studs out and removed them. Goofed up some studs I had to run a die over. Then I had to buy rotors as now I'm sure they were not going to go back on very true. Mine were more pitted than warped. Got the cheap china ones and those were not long before they warped. The front brakes on that truck gave me the most trouble of that truck ! Darn AC delco brakes Dodge used.
 
what year is your E450?

if newer (2006-up) i believe, if i recall, it most likely has TRW brakes (rotor/caliper/pads) on it. for US made brake components almost all are cast by one foundry. Waupaca. you'll see a "W#" somewhere on the rotor and that will tell you which foundry they were cast in. You CANNOT buy rotors as good as OE anywhere else. are china rotors "good enough" ... probably in many cases if a good brand. but OE rotors are machined to very tight specs (9 microns) and aftermarket just doesn't do it. nor can most places turn them that tight but they are still better iron with better machining on the hubs and hats and brake plates.

There is a good chance that TRW used aekobono brake pads (someone else mentioned) as many do/have. if new enough the Ford pads you can buy are probably OE quaility. the brakes are engineered together. they must pass the FMVSS standard to actually stop the vehicle at its rated GVW. you can pick 3 of the following 4 items for brake pads >, stopping, dust free, quite and long life. > you cannot have all 4. obviously stopping is mandatory (i had autozone lifetime pad on our old van and it would not stop).

I generally use Wagner (federal-mogal) "thermo-quiet" brake pads but have used napa and carquest on the beater cars with decent luck.

calipers.. not so finicky but you do want something that has been a quality rebuild. you don't want poor/cheap pistons or pins hanging up and causing the pads to drag and wear out your new pads, waste gas and wreck your new/turned rotors. of course there is a good chance you don't need new calipers just because your changing the pads/rotors. you will want to make sure everything (pins) are greased up and moving freely before reassembly and nothing bound up once reassembled.
good luck

good luck.
 
Local brake shops all replace rotors anymore. New rotors are so close to minimum thickness when new that by the time you wear out a set of pads the rotors are too thin, no material to turn off. They get too thin they warp and you get the pulsing brake pedal.

Had my fill of non-OEM pads & shoes, messy dusty squealing aftermarket pads/shoes, I use only OEM pads/shoes anymore. Done one 4-wheel brake job on my '96 F-250 4wd with just over 300,000 miles, not kilometers, MILES. Have 141,000 on my little car, new pads & rotors about 15,000 miles ago, Wife's old car went 205,000 on 2 sets of front pads and one set rear pads, new rotors on front only. When my local dealer Shop Manager says he doesn't like turning brake rotors, has better luck replacing them, I tend to believe him, his shop does several brake jobs every day.
 

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