Trailer brakes questions

super99

Well-known Member
I bought a used P & J gooseneck 3 axle trailer. The brakes do not slow you down or stop the truck. You can hear the magnets make contact when the brakes are applied. I want to get them fixed before next weekend so I can take a tractor and plow to a plow day. I got the front tire and hub off the right side. It appears to me that there are no linings left, just metal to metal. I got the bolts out of the backer plate and want to take it to Mutual Wheel to get the right new parts. I can't find a connector in the wire running to the brakes. Wire from the magnet goes thru the backer plate, thru a hole in the frame and then runs towards the back of the trailer inside a metal tube. Is there a connector somewhere that I'm missing or do you add connector when the brakes are replaced?? Also, the arm that the magnet is attached to will not move. Shouldn't the arm move to move the shoes out against the drum?? Someone please explain this to me, I'm stumped. Thanks, Chris
a176450.jpg

a176451.jpg

a176455.jpg

a176458.jpg

a176459.jpg
 
Lots of lining there. The arm should move the shoe way beyond what you can get the drum back on. Something is stuck.
 
Had same problem - -brake lining looked good, linkage free, had a good brake controller with great voltage to brakes,
What I didn't have was a good GROUND circuit from the brakes back to my towing vehicle.
(and, yeah, lights worked, somewhat dimly, but brakes only barely applied)

Best Wishes!
John
 
Make sure every thing moves as it should. remember magnet pulls against flat face of drum and rotation of wheel applies brake. most trailer brakes are not self adjusting and must be manually adjusted to work like pre 1960 cars and pickups. if out of adjustment the apply lever will reach the end of its travel before adequate braking is achieved.
 
The arm must move to apply the brakes. Free the pivot up, adjust the shoes with the star wheel at the bottom, and they should work.

There is no connector for the magnet coil, just a short pigtail and the wires are spliced to the trailer wiring.

No need to take it apart to identify it. Just measure the drum ID and shoe width, that info with a picture is all they will need. But from what I see, no parts are needed.
 
The drum surface that the magnets rub against needs to be smooth also for the brakes to work right. Had mine to three shops before they turned the drums and now my brakes work.
 
Can't help you with the brakes - BUT where's the Plow Day?
billonthefarm Plow Day near Farmington, IL is next Sunday 11/5/17.

Jim
 
chris, check the price on replacing the whole assembly with backing plate hardware and magnets. i did brakes on a boy scout trailer last year and did it that way. wasnt that spendy.
 
I redid my trailer brakes last summer I think you will find that all the work involved in rebuilding yours is not worth the time and effort. Both sides kinda look alike, but there is a right side and a left side. There were no connectors in the wiring on mine, just cut the wire and splice it back together after you change them .
 
We average doing a trailer a week.Spray the pivot block at the top of the cam arm with a good penetrating oil and free the arm until the spring tension of the shoe springs kicks the arm back to center when moved in either direction. Block the brake control in the on position and take a metallic object ( wrench) and make sure it sticks to all the magnets. Remove all the adjusters and free them up and oil them. Put everything back together and adjust the brakes all the way up until they lock the drum and back them off until they turn free with a very slight rub. You will have brakes.Did one today.
 
where i work both trailers we have never had brakes. Long story short, the shoes were froze up on both trailers on all the wheels.
 
There is nothing visually wrong with those brakes, they likely just need to be adjusted up. I doubt they are worn down 25%. If you can hear the magnets humming in all the wheels then an adjustment is likely all that is needed. Make sure the magnets work tho. When I adjust them I adjust them til you can hear them drag just a bit but the hub turns free. They don't have much movement so they need to be kept adjusted up. Even those with self adjuster don't usually keep them tight enough.
 
If you decide to replace the brakes just do the entire backing plate as that is most always the cheapest and is far easier than replacing all the parts.
 
Just new to you, been optional for 30 years at least. I never get them because I've had those spindles break.
 
That arm MUST be free to pivot, it's what actually applies the brake shoes to the drums. Do yourself a favor and buy 6 new loaded backing plates. Don't waste your time trying to fix the originals. There is usually a connection close to the backing plate. Just cut the wires off the old ones, solder and heatshrink the new wires. If the original wires were put together with Scotch Locks, your best bet is to start over with all new wire. Solder and heatshrink every connection and use a molded trailer plug pigtail and not one of those screw type replacement style plugs. With everything soldered and sealed you will have very reliable brakes and lights.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top