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trouble starting 4020 diesel

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PerryMerlo

New User
I have a late 4020 diesel that is hard starting. It takes about 10-20 seconds of cranking to start it. The starter is working good. I get a lot of smoke on start up. Changed all the injectors and the fuel pump. Thinking it could be an injector problem. Any advice as to how to check the timing and where I can get a square inspection window for a roosta master ab? How do I adjust the timing? Thanks
 
This may be totally different from your problem But it might be worth checking. My Massey 165 has always been good about starting till a couple weeks ago. It would crank a bit and smoke before it finally started. After it started it would accelerate slowly which was not usual for it. I thought it might be the injector pump but it was just rebuilt year before last. Just by chance I found the kill cable was coming out of the metal piece that holds it and it wasn't completely turning the fuel on like it should be. Put a new cable on it & presto, all is cured. I'm a firm believer in the k.i.s.s. method of checking things. Keep It Simple Stupid. (that stupid part is usually where I find my self LOL.
 
I have had the same problem with a Ford. Problem was lube at the pump where the fuel flow control shaft enters the pump. The cable was pushing on it but it was sticking. Lubed it and the cable all the way back and through the kill lever and works fine.....keep my eye on it now.
 
This tractor doesn't have a kill cable; the key switch shuts off the tractor, but I will check to see if all the connections are good to what I assume is a solenoid that shuts off the fuel at the injector pump
 
Yes jogging my memory I think my 4010 had one just above the engine or somewhere around there. I also think that at one time I replaced it but forget why....many years ago.
 
I would do a compression test before spending any more money, smoking but not starting when cold is indicative of low compression.

Fuel shutoff is not a factor if smoke.
 
Sorry David, but I disagree, my shut off wasn't completely open or closed thus it did smoke before it started as I said below. I never thought it could be the shut off cable but it sure runs good now where it didn't before so it , in my mind, must have been the problem.
 
Keith,

Did not mean to disrespect you, the shutoff on the is built into the pump, no separate cable.
 
Is it by chance only hard starting after it has sat for a few days?

I have one that has miniscule fuel leaks (just enough to see a small wet spot on the block below the pump after working it hard)

If I leave it for a few weeks it does what yours is doing.
Instead of cranking it over for that long I spin it over for about 5 seconds then let it sit with the key on for 20-30 seconds, turn the key and it fires right up.

Guessing it is getting a little bit of air in over time which is causing the long crank time if I were to just keep cranking until it starts.
 
Its hard to start if it sits more than an hour after its been run. However, I can turn it off and then start it again right away (within a couple seconds) and it starts no problem.
I tried to crank it a little and then let it sit with the key on for about 10 seconds and it seemed to start a little better but not right off as it should. Wonder if I should just have the whole injector
pump rebuilt. It does put out a lot of white - grey smoke when its trying to start ; thinking it might be compression issue although it seems to have a lot of power and not burning oil as far as i can
tell. Anyone know how to check the compression on this tractor?
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:28 10/23/17) Its hard to start if it sits more than an hour after its been run. However, I can turn it off and then start it again right away (within a couple seconds) and it starts no problem.
I tried to crank it a little and then let it sit with the key on for about 10 seconds and it seemed to start a little better but not right off as it should. Wonder if I should just have the whole injector
pump rebuilt. It does put out a lot of white - grey smoke when its trying to start ; thinking it might be compression issue although it seems to have a lot of power and not burning oil as far as i can
tell. Anyone know how to check the compression on this tractor?
Click to expand...

It is possible you have some minor leaks.
It is possible air is being sucked into the fuel system in which case you may not see any external leakage, filter base , low pressure feed lines etc.

As far as a compression test goes you would need to remove the injectors then an adaptor gets installed in place of the injector, to this a diesel compression tester is connected.
A compression tester for a gas engine is not suitable as the compression of a diesel engine is usually in the range of twice what a gas tester is designed for.

They may have come down in price over the years but I know I paid $500+ for each of mine 15-20 years ago, in addition buying the adaptors for each style injector adds up fast.
 

My guess is a diesel pump repair shop. Inj pump can be timed to engine without the clear inspection window. Setting IP speed advance requires clear window.
 
I did not see where anyone gave a nswer,.. simply get the f lywheel to the proper timing mark area on the flywheel opening ,,. then open the 2 screws on the injector pump and have a helper wrench crank FPRWARD THE engine SLOWLy ,. there is a fine red needle mark that will align to the black line on the pump ,,.
 
I checked the timing on the pump today and it is dead-on in line with the TDC line on the flywheel - bell housing. So you are saying to advance the timing somewhere between TDC and 10 degrees
before TDC and see if this gets it to start better? I will give it a try. Thanks
 
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