SUPER A Not Running Right

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 8, 2017

I had the Super A running. I then put the air cleaner on. Now it is not running again. Took air cleaner off and it will start but not keep running.

I have a Zenith carb 352592-10498. Planning on taking it apart (again tomorrow) The attached drawing has parts 25A, 26A and 27A. I am assuming mine does not have these as it has a plug (27) in there. (Mine would have 25 main nozzle and 26 main nozzle gasket) My carb only has one adjustment (idle needle adjustment) I am also thinking I might have put the venturi in upside down.

My choke has a screw on it also. Not sure what that is for.

Any help would be appreciated. I am getting closer!n (I think)
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto4513.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto4514.jpg"/>

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 8, 2017

It looks like there is a washer on the screw on the choke plate. It appears to be closing both holes. Is this set correctly? Not even sure how to get to the washer as it is the back side of the plate.

Janicholson · Oct 8, 2017

The choke plate is fine. The spring is an atmospheric control that allows the "washer" to be pulled inward reducing the total choke effect, but reducing the chance of flooding. It is normal.

Janicholson · Oct 8, 2017

Air cleaners are often plugged up. If it got flooded from a plugged up air cleaner, it might require removing the plugs and heating them with a small torch to make them fire. Check the air cleaner first. Jim

Steve@Advance · Oct 8, 2017

Since your carb doesn't have 25A, 26A, and 27A, that means it is a "fixed jet" model. Therefore it needs to have 29 (the main jet) and 30 (main jet gasket). Are they in there? If not it will run extremely rich off idle.

If the venturi was installed upside down, I don't think the bowl will go on fully. If tightened down that way, the top is probably warped. It needs to seat fully for the idle circuit to work.

When you service the air cleaner, did you clean the wire mesh inside the canister? Also check for other obstructions, like dirt dobbers and mouse nests.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 8, 2017

Should have mentioned, air cleaner is clean. New oil in bottom also

kevinthefixer · Oct 8, 2017

Do you know a local mechanic? Preferably with white or no hair? I recommend you have a carb man look at it. These old tractor carbs are as simple as they get but it's still too easy to mix something up. My Marvel-Schebler for instance, very similar carb, has two jets that look identical outside and will fit in each other's holes. But a mechanic with carb experience can look and tell you that one is the main fuel jet and one the idle fuel jet, the main has a much larger orifice. Also, don't discount some other problem, maybe someone forgot to lube the points cam and the point gap closed up? Check fuel filter/sediment bowl? Sure you're not getting the water out of the bottom of the tank and trying to run the tractor on that? BTW if you can manage that one I want your secret.

used red MN · Oct 8, 2017

See you have at least the carb painted up so I suppose you have went through everything on this tractor. Just to double check, you have looked through the center tube of the air cleaner and it has no blockage like a mud wasp nest? The pre-cleaner above the hood is okay as well? It sounds like your problem is more likely the jet swap but asking this just to save a headache.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 9, 2017

I have cleaned the gas tank. So I know it has good gas. Replaced sediment bowl the old one was cracked. Absolutely no gunk floating in bowl. Brand new good gas. I took distributor off and cleaned all contacts. Have a great blue spark. Checked all plugs, have good spark too. I put gas in each cylinder, it fires right up. I can start tractor using the carb, fiddle with choke and keep it running maybe 5 seconds then it dies. I'm thinking It has to be a carb issue

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 9, 2017

Happy Thanksgiving everyone. I have the day off so my plan is to take carb off and have look. Yes, I am restoring the tractor. It's almost done. If I can get it running, put the hood on, decals, new muffler and rain cap...it should be complete (not that they are ever done) I've cleaned the air cleaner by soaking in purple power for a few days then rinsing with water. Dried it out. Put new oil in. It looks to be in good shape. Replaced hose between cleaner me carb. Cleaner is off now and I do get it to run for about 5 seconds. I may have put the spring on the needle seat on wrong. It may be binding up. I also did not check level of the float. I'm going to dig in to it this morning before turkey dinner! Thanks for all the help!

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 9, 2017

Well the good news is everything in the carb was correct. The problem was that the main jet (#25 pictured
below) was plugged. I got it cleaned out. It was not an easy job to get it out, it came out hard. As you
can see from the picture below, the problem now is that the threads are missing on the jet. That means that
the threads are still in the hole for the jet. Have no way to get them out. I did put a little copper
gasket seal to help hold the jet in. Put all back together and it is running pretty good (even with the
air cleaner) I do have an oil leak on the touch control housing. It must be coming from one of the bolts
on the very bottom. Will have to dig into that next.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 9, 2017

Guess it would help if I actually put the picture on.

kevinthefixer · Oct 9, 2017

It's a bit our-of-focus, but that appears to be the mixing tube, #25 in the drawing. You can probably get the old threads out with an easy-out, they are stronger than brass, and maybe heat it first. But where you'd get a new one I'm sure I don't know. Might be time for a new carb if you have any more trouble with that.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 26, 2017

So I was able to get the threads out of the carb. Now I need to replace the main nozzle (#25) I searched for a few weeks now with no luck. I can find one with four holes near the end of the tube. Mine has four holes at end of tune and two closer to where the threads should be. Anyone have any ideas as to where I can get one?

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 26, 2017

i tried to jb steel stick the threads back on. No luck. That's what the black material is in the photo. I thought about jb welding nozzle in place. Id really hate to have to do that.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 26, 2017

this is what I have

kevinthefixer · Oct 26, 2017

If that's supposed to be another pic, it missed. I think your problem is about solved, though, just use the tube with more holes, it'll work just fine. Or, if you can get the JB Weld off, solder the broken-off threads back on to the sleeve. Careful you don't get solder in the threads themselves, just melt a bit onto the tube and let it run into the joint. Heat the brass, remove the flame, touch the solder to the hot brass, don't melt the solder directly with the flame.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 27, 2017

Thank you. I will give that a try. The tractor runs great for about 10 minutes then starts shutting off. as soon as it shuts off I can restart but only runs 5-10 seconds. Maybe something in the gas line. I will double check that as well. I know this nozzle is broken, I am hoping that's whats causing the issue. I cant think of anything else.

BarnyardEngineering · Oct 27, 2017

Just get the new nozzle you can get. The missing/extra holes (I'm confused as to what the exact problem is) won't make any difference.

Runs for 10 minutes... Sounds like a hot ignition coil to me. Was the tractor converted to 12 Volts? If so is the proper ballast resistor installed in the power wire to the coil?

kevinthefixer · Oct 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 05:34:54 10/27/17) Just get the new nozzle you can get. The missing/extra holes (I'm confused as to what the exact problem is) won't make any difference.

Runs for 10 minutes... Sounds like a hot ignition coil to me. Was the tractor converted to 12 Volts? If so is the proper ballast resistor installed in the power wire to the coil?

es, it does sound more like a spark issue than fuel. Does it help to pull the choke out? If that makes little or no difference it's not fuel.

kevinthefixer · Oct 27, 2017

Another thought: make sure there's no water in the fuel.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 27, 2017

thanks for the ideas guys, I'm gonna try to solder the threads. Probably end up buying the nozzle with just the four holes on the bottom.

The tractor starts and runs great but after running a while will shut off. I can pull the starter rod and it starts right back up will run a little while then shut off again.

It has been converted to 12 volt. I did put a fused wire connection under the gas tank near the bowl assembly. Now that you guys have mentioned it, the coil does say 6 volt.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 27, 2017

I'll have to look. I did install a ballast resistor under the gas tank. I am thinking, maybe that is not quite right. It is ceramic with what looks like a cylinder type fuse on the back. Maybe that is broken. But if it were broken, I would think tractor would not run at all.

HVFDfirefighter · Oct 29, 2017

So just to recap: my broken nozzle has 4 holes near the bottom of the tube and two holes closer to the threads (6 holes altogether) I can't seem to find the exact replacement. In my search for a replacement, I have seen some nozzles with just 4 holes on the end and some with 3 holes going up the tube (assuming there is actually 6 but I can't see the other side in the picture). Which one should get? I guess what I'm really asking is do the number of holes really matter?

I am also looking into the electrical. Maybe my coil is internally resisted and I have also used a resistor block. Tractor has a black coil laying on its side. I see they make a different coil for horizontal mount. If I check with a meter, what should the readings be?

Thanks for all the help. I truly appreciate it.

SUPER A Not Running Right

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