Replaced clutch plate but will not go into gear when started

Ryan Koster

New User
I have a 1964 ford 2000. It's a 4 cylinder gas engine with a 4 speed transmission. It would not go into gear when started and it was about time, so I replaced the clutch plate with the full kit. Put everything back together and it still will not go into gear when started. No idea where to go now!? Thanks for the help!!!
 

Don’t mean to insult your intelligent s but I take it you have adjusted the linkage? If not, try this. If my
Diagram is not clear one of the experts will chime in. But get
your free play a little over one inch and the pedal height with the
clevis at 7 inches. I might not be to clear, Jack Daniels and me self
have been having a conversation and I think he’s winning.
3844.jpg
 
Was the clutch disk tight on the transmission input shaft??? IF so it can drag even when released enough that it will not go into gear. How did the pilot bushing and input shaft "fit". If the input shafts drags on the pilot bushing it can cause enough drag the transmission would drag.

Also what is your "clutch plate and the full kit"??? Pressure plate too? Just clutch disk and throw out bearing?? Pilot bushing???

IF you put it in gear and then crank the tractor does it try and move??? IF it does try and move then some thing is not assembled correctly in the clutch. IF it does not try and move then you have a dragging clutch disk/pilot bushing issue or you do not have it adjusted correctly.

I do not remember on the Ford 2000, do the release fingers have adjustments bolts on them to set the height??? If they do and you did not adjust them they would be the same as before you installed the new clutch.
 

I have three four cylinder Fords and have replaced clutches in two of them. I have never heard of a "clutch plate". Are you referring to the pressure plate? I have never heard of "clutch kit." Please post back with more information about what was happening before and after. As well as more details about the work that you performed. 120 questions game can take many days and some very knowledgeable guys will lose patience.
 
we had that on a case 530 once, tore it down put clutch and pressure plate in, same problem, wouldn't go in gear. after some more work and sweat replaced the pilot bearing...problem solved....just something to think about.
 
I understand what you mean when you say ''clutch kit'' YT parts list it that way, without word ''plate' throwed in. that single disc set-up is hard to mess up on--clutch finger adjust, etc not needed, unless disc IS backwards, i'm thinking ''fork/cross-shaft pin'' could be your problem--good luck---
 
Seems like we're getting no more replies you must be out in the shop trying to fix it. To clarify on
what JDseller is saying to try is to put it in gear and try to start it. The part I think he left out is to
hold down the clutch, which he may have been relying on the fact that it has a working clutch
safety switch. Also hold the brakes and see if you can make the clutch slip or disengage. This will
tell you as JD implied whether or not the clutch might be able to be adjusted to release properly.
Or if it seems to be a solid engagement then most likely there is something installed incorrectly.
Which I would say is most likely the clutch disc is backwards, T.O. bearing wrong or out of position
from the actuating fork or bad pilot bearing.
 
Sometimes that happens. Some common causes:

Defective pressure plate, assembled wrong, just won't release for some unknown reason. The pp can also be damaged, warped during installation. The bolts need to be tightened gradually in a criss-cross pattern.

Clutch disc, installed backward so the springs hit the flywheel bolts. Or the spline is tight, won't let the disc center between the flywheel and pp.

Damaged flywheel surface, warped, heat checked, hot spots, needs to be turned.

Frozen pilot bearing, keeps turning the input shaft even with the clutch released.

Adjustment/linkage problems. The release bearing improperly installed, fingers out of adjustment, release fork out of place, improperly adjusted.

Disc or pilot bearing damaged during installation. Easy to do, letting the engine weight hang on the disc, or forcing the engine in with bolts.

Is it truly not releasing? If it just grinds on initial gear engagement, check the transmission oil level. If the level is low, there is no grease to slow the spinning momentum of the gears.

If it is not even trying to release, and the linkage is adjusted, something is seriously wrong, going to have to go back in...
 
Hey guys, thank you for all the responses. Forgive me for using the incorrect terminology, I shouldn't have posted it after midnight and waited till morning. I have checked the linkage and it's not that. The springs on the pp were tightened all the way down and I'm wondering if that is the problem? Why have springs if they are tightened all the way down is my thinking now. The bearings were new and turned easily. I was just wondering if it could be something easy I overlooked that didn't involve breaking the tractor in half again. I don't think I put the disk on backwards, but please give me your thoughts on the springs question. Thanks again!
 
Guys could you help settle something else for me. My father seems to think the starter button is the problem. I know there is a safety feature that prevents the tractor from being in gear when started. I don't think this the problem, but is there any way this could affect it from going into gear when started?
 
Simple answer is yes the starter button can keep it from going into gear if it has stuck in the pushed down position. If the button stays down you cannot move the shiftier to put it in gear. Found that out the hard way on my 841S when the button stuck down on me and I could not get it into any of the gears
 
(quoted from post at 18:11:52 09/24/17) The springs on the pp were tightened all the way down and I'm wondering if that is the problem? Why have springs if they are tightened all the way down is my thinking now. The bearings were new and turned easily. I was just wondering if it could be something easy I overlooked that didn't involve breaking the tractor in half again. I don't think I put the disk on backwards, but please give me your thoughts on the springs question. Thanks again!

I think you have the disk in backwards.
If the springs are tightened all the way down, there's no way you would be able to move the disk to disengage the clutch. JMHO
 
Agreed, if the springs are bottomed out there will be no more movement for it to release. Disk in backwards is the most common cause.
 
(quoted from post at 16:11:52 09/24/17) Hey guys, thank you for all the responses. Forgive me for using the incorrect terminology, I shouldn't have posted it after midnight and waited till morning. I have checked the linkage and it's not that. The springs on the pp were tightened all the way down and I'm wondering if that is the problem? Why have springs if they are tightened all the way down is my thinking now. The bearings were new and turned easily. I was just wondering if it could be something easy I overlooked that didn't involve breaking the tractor in half again. I don't think I put the disk on backwards, but please give me your thoughts on the springs question. Thanks again!

By tightened all the way down do you mean all coils are touching one another for the length of each spring?
 
(quoted from post at 18:53:38 09/25/17)
(quoted from post at 16:11:52 09/24/17) Hey guys, thank you for all the responses. Forgive me for using the incorrect terminology, I shouldn't have posted it after midnight and waited till morning. I have checked the linkage and it's not that. The springs on the pp were tightened all the way down and I'm wondering if that is the problem? Why have springs if they are tightened all the way down is my thinking now. The bearings were new and turned easily. I was just wondering if it could be something easy I overlooked that didn't involve breaking the tractor in half again. I don't think I put the disk on backwards, but please give me your thoughts on the springs question. Thanks again!

By tightened all the way down do you mean all coils are touching one another for the length of each spring?

Maybe the cage bolts were not removed??????

I assume ford clamps them for installation.....
 

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