Breaking top links at the tractor end.

The Famous Grouse · Aug 25, 2017

OK guys, I didn't know where to post this. I may have a tractor problem, an implement problem, or (most likely) the problem is me.

For the second time this year while discing in a 5 acre food plot, I have snapped off a top link at the tractor end, just where the ball meets the threaded portion.

Tractor is a Deere 2010, disc is a 6.5 foot Howse 3 point disc. Top link is a category 1/2, I'm running it with Cat 1 bushings on both ends. Both times this has happened, the break was at the tractor end.

Am I doing some thing wrong? I don't turn corners with the disc down, but today I did turn to dodge a big rock. Not sure that is when the break happened or not.

Another observation. The chains that connect the lower 3 point arms to the tractor are broken on one side. Is this allowing the disc to sway too much? If so, how long should these chains be? Just enough to let the arm swing wide enough to be hitched to the disc?

What is causing this issue? Feel free to step me through the process of hooking up and/or adjusting. I didn't grow up farming so I'm a newbie to doing work with tractors.

Many thanks.

Grouse

stevob671 · Aug 25, 2017

You need to fix those sway chains. Too much side sway may be forcing the top link to bind on the yoke. Even turning with the disc up at the end it will swing sometimes snapping around. A cat 2 top link should normally never snap with a 6.5 foot disk unless something is binding.

paul · Aug 25, 2017

I would fix the sway chain. I too have run with only one stabilizer. It ends up not a great experience.....

But, you are having a unique problem there with the top link breaking. I can't put my finger on what would cause that.

You could have your disk with the rear gangs too low, and so the disk is pushing up real hard on the top link? (Top link is too long.)

Or if your tractor is snugly holding the top link, and with the broken chain the disk is pushing very hard to one side it would be bending and
breaking the top link with the side pressure? (Normally there is enough flex the top link can rotate on the ball and shift side to side plenty, but?)

Paul

Russ from MN · Aug 25, 2017

Can it sway too much to the side and put stress on the top link? I think that is your problem, fix the chain! You could pull
it to the side with a come-along and see if that is your problem. Troubleshoot!

in-too-deep · Aug 25, 2017

Dunno, but I've drank your whiskey.

Dune Country · Aug 25, 2017

(quoted from post at 21:31:39 08/25/17) Dunno, but I've drank your whiskey.

any good??

Janicholson · Aug 25, 2017

If the disk is leveled, and running deep, and if there is a catch or resistance in the float of the lower links, and you drive across a swale or dead furrow, the forces
will be strong pushing on the top link. The rear wheels of the tractor will have far less weight on them, as they enter the deepest part of the depression. Sway
limiting must also be under control. If loose on one side things can get so far out of whack, that the implement (not your disk probably) can cut rear tires. Jim

Bruce from Can. · Aug 26, 2017

Trade the JD in on a new Kubota like Kieth Molden just bought . Problem solved . See Kieth's post below. lucky guy !

Tx Jim · Aug 26, 2017

The Famous Grouse
Does your tractor not have sway blocks?

2underage · Aug 26, 2017

My advice is simple, get rid of the top link when using a 3 point hitch harrows. Replace the top link with a chain and the disk can then float and keep contact with the ground even when going over uneven ground. All the top link does is keep the back of the disk from dragging on the ground when you have it in the raised position. It will take a little time to get the chain the right length but you will be pleased with the results as the disks will work better as their weight will be all on the ground.

M Nut · Aug 26, 2017

Yep, I recommend the same thing. A length of chain in place of the top link. I do the same thing on my 3pt mounted snowblower and it follows the contour of the ground much better.

jddrawbar · Aug 26, 2017

Not everyone is a rich diary farmer.....

PJH · Aug 26, 2017

Another way to look at it - you're lucky that it is the top link breaking and not a piece of the tractor.

Lots of good ideas below.

JMOR · Aug 26, 2017

To help ID the cause, I would examone the link, at the break, to see if there are signs of bending. Up/down vs left/right for instance.

gene bender · Aug 26, 2017

Just how can the disc flex up and down when hooked to a three point like that when tractor is in low spot disc is in high spot carrying the wt of the tractor. Use a piece of chain for the third link thus the disc can flex up and down without putting strain on the third link.

centash · Aug 26, 2017

Now, there is an oxymoron....kinda like military intelligence.... Ben

Tx Jim · Aug 26, 2017

IMHO the 3 pt hitch disk was designed to utilize a centerlink not a chain. Since most 3 pt hitches including a JD 2010 have no down pressure there's no real reason the disk can't float up & down following the terrain utilizing a centerlink. My guess is OP isn't utilizing an original centerlink but a smaller threaded area aftermarket centerlink.

showcrop · Aug 26, 2017

(quoted from post at 07:26:09 08/26/17) Just how can the disc flex up and down when hooked to a three point like that when tractor is in low spot disc is in high spot carrying the wt of the tractor. Use a piece of chain for the third link thus the disc can flex up and down without putting strain on the third link.

All of you guys that say to use a chain to replace the top link need to grab a piece of paper and draw a diagram of a three point hitch looking from the SIDE with ANY implement mounted. Harry Ferguson and Henry Fordwould be chasing you guys to hit you aside the head with a 2x4!

Tech 7 · Aug 26, 2017

Agree 100%!

The Famous Grouse · Aug 26, 2017

Appreciate all the replies, guys.

Since the links are forged, they both snapped cleanly at the ball end. I can't see any "bend" or other sign to indicate which way the pressure was that caused them to break.

Disc did not hit tires when I initially set it up. I don't know when that sway chain broke.

(quoted from post at 07:12:09 08/26/17)
The Famous Grouse
Does your tractor not have sway blocks?

Yes, sway blocks are in place and I have new chain to replace the broken sway chain on one side. So that'll get done.

Question: How do I determine the proper length for the sway chain? Just long enough to prevent impliment from contacting tire? Or other?

(quoted from post at 11:13:32 08/26/17)
IMHO the 3 pt hitch disk was designed to utilize a centerlink not a chain. Since most 3 pt hitches including a JD 2010 have no down pressure there's no real reason the disk can't float up & down following the terrain utilizing a centerlink. My guess is OP isn't utilizing an original centerlink but a smaller threaded area aftermarket centerlink.

I'm using a category 2 threaded centerlink with bushings to downsize to the Deere's cat 1 connecting point on the tractor. Yes, it's aftermarket, on a 1965 tractor, the original was nowhere to be found.

What does the original centerlink do differently?

Related question: This deere has different 3 point "float" settings". Which should I be using?

Somebody's going to also have to explain why chain WOULDN'T work. The disc weighs over 750 pounds, this is a top end Howse box frame HD disc. I'm field discing food plots and yes, I have some rock. But let's avoid any nonsense about the disc flipping over/up on me. Not going to happen on any terrain I have.

I'm thinking the chain method is worth a try. Unless that's going to somehow stress out some other component?

Again, appreciate all the replies and help. At least I got lucky and the top links I broke were on opposite ends, so I could take 2 broken ones and make 1 good one.

Grouse

stonerock · Aug 26, 2017

you are right once again showcrop, DOT book say's you can run a strap for the top link

Tx Jim · Aug 26, 2017

The Famous Grouse
If sway blocks are installed correct for Cat l or Cat ll there is no need for sway chains.

As I previously stated the factory centerlink threaded portion is larger//stronger than most aftermarket threaded portions of centerlink
Lever under seat sets draft control not float. 3 pt hitch will float in all positions.

I have not stated a piece of chain wouldn't work I'm just trying to state a factory centerlink if attached correctly should work without breaking.

olgentdc · Aug 26, 2017

i agree ,the physics get really challenged on that up and down humps could pop a cheap center link ,.. but it shouldn t ,... t urning on the ground could likewise strain the link if the sway blox allow the disc to get dangerously close to the tires ,,. there is some ugly torque occurring on everything ,.. i have broke alot of steel ,.unexpectantly,..sometimes it a takes another try to figure out what the hale is causing it ..

caterpillar guy · Aug 27, 2017

Buy a pull disk and problem solved.

The Famous Grouse · Aug 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 03:08:25 08/27/17) Buy a pull disk and problem solved.

Do you think maybe there's a reason why I don't own a pull disc in the first place?

Grouse

The Famous Grouse · Sep 2, 2017

Topic update.

I replaced the broken sway chain and replaced the other side chain for good measure. Used heavier chain as well.

Then I replaced the top link with a 2000 pound chain and a shackle on each end.

Did a couple of rounds on one of my rocky fields where I broke the top link and the problem obviously was uneven ground and rocks stressing the top link from virtually every direction. Watching that disk float around now that it has some flex and bounce when it hits something now, especially where upward force is applied to the back of the disc when going through low spots, it's no dang wonder I was busting top links.

Thanks for the advice everyone and I learned a lot as always gents. Much appreciate the shared knowledge here!

Grouse

Breaking top links at the tractor end.

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