Super A valve lash

OK, I got the #8 valve moving (it was stuck). Had to remove head. Got everything cleaned up. Put on new head gasket, blue side up. Tightened all nuts a little at a time until all were finally at 65#. I then put rocker arm assembly on and tightens the three nuts to 50#. Now I need to adjust th valve lash. Not much help in the IT book. Found these directionsnon line, do they sound right?

" Bring No1 piston (near the radiator) to TDC on the compression stroke and adjust valves 1,2,3 & 5 counting from the radiator. Then rotate engine one full turn and adjust 4,6,7 & 8. Set them at .017" cold"

If this is not correct, anyone have a set of directions for me?

On a side note, I also took oil pan off. There is one heck of a huge dent on the back (furthest from radiator). I can see where it was brazed. It does not leak. I cleaned the screen on the float for the oil pump it was filthy. I'm afraid to take dent out because it may crack then I have to buy a new pan. Just found out today the intake/exhaust manifold is shot (huge holes in the bottom of the cast. I know I need one. This tractor is starting to act like a boat (always needs something). It is fun working on it with my 13 year old son. Starting to get expensive though.

Just curious, did you end up grinding any of the valves, or do anything to help them seat?

did you remove the valves and clean guide bores, and inspect seats?if you just removed head to loosen valves by smacking back and forth thats a waste of time. but yes adjust valves that way or the other way... follow firing order 1342 with each cyl. on compression, adjust each cyl. as u go. its .017 hot.

Did u check plate on botton of oil pump if it was warped

That valve setting method will get it close enough to run.

But, before putting the gas tank back on, connect it up with a hose, or some way to get fuel to the carb.

Leave the valve cover off, fill the radiator, start it up.

Check the rockers to be sure they are oiling. Won't oil much, but every rocker must have some sign of oil welling up and dripping around the shaft.

Let it run long enough to get up to temperature, watch for leaks, anything abnormal.

Then shut it off, be ready to retorque the head bolts while it is still warm.

Then when it has cooled off, reset the valve lash. You can use the same method for setting them, but be sure to start it up and listen for any loose ones. You can stick the feeler gauge in each rocker to tell which one is noisy.

I prefer to set them one at a time, hand turning the engine through with the plugs out, moving the feeler gauge between the rocker and valve as I turn the engine, feeling for the loosest point. Takes a little longer, but I know they are right when finished.

80 LBS ON THE HEAD BOLTS

HELLO HVFDfirefighter,


Give me the firing order, and I will give you an easy way to do them,

Guido.

If you watch the video below and start at 14:44 and thru about 15:11 or so you will see how I was taught to set valve lash. I learned to drive in a 1936 Chevy so the total video was interesting to me.
Look Here

The dent in the oil pan is from when the tractor had cultivaters on it.Sometimes the bar that the shoes/shovels mount on will hit the pan.
That valve procedure will work.I have used it before.Mark

Let's make it official...l



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