Leroy

Well-known Member
The only time I ever bought any was at least 25 years ago, probably more like 30 years. If there was more than one strength at that time I did not know it. Now is there any made or something else to use for this? White iron bearing last made in 58 and back to 1939 so would not be avaible new that the threads are bad where the grease zerk screws in and will not hold the zerk, Any lock tight that might hold it in place or anything else to try. Real bearing on hay rake.
 
Can you drill and tap it to the next over grease fitting?

Or wrap some fine wire around the threads of the fitting, force it in. Won't take much to hold it.

If you do use Locktite, it will need to be thoroughly clean and free of grease. Red is the stronger, but they make a lot of different products now for different applications.
Locktite
 
what size? if 1/8 npt you may be able to use a 10 millimeter fitting also many other sizes avail to oversize. suggest as a quick look as to what is available go to McMaster Carr. your local dealers and supply shops may even carry them
 
Loctite will work great if the surface is clean. They make a special spray primer to help. Loctite needs steel to activate it so if it's stainless ,coated or black oxide it will not work well without primer. The new loctite has primer mixed in.
 
Grease jerks can apply high pressure, how much pressure can your grease guns generate? New threads and a new grease fitting would be best. If the threads are tapered, could you spot face the top surface and cut new threads a little deeper into the metal?
 
The steel the bearings are made out of is so hard a thread tap will not touch it. The bearings are so loose that after the grease gets in it actually will take no pressure to get it where it is supposed to be, no more pressure than the zerk creates. All the zerk has to do is guide the grease in without any pressure applied. I think I will try that JB Weld, work a bit in the threads and build up on the outside where a wrench goes on.
 
You might try a Drive-type zerk. Get a handful of metric and SAE. Or drill for the zerk size you want.
 
As I said you cannot even run a thread tap in because the steel is too hard so if that how do you drill?
 
Green lock tight . It's made to fill voids and what ever you put it on won't come apart with out heat. That would be my first choice.
 
If you have room, could you use a pipe nipple in place of the grease fitting, then add a coupler with the grease fitting screwed into the coupler? I'm wondering if the flange on the grease fitting is bottoming out before the threads get a good grip. The pipe nipple might screw in far enough to get a good bite. You might be able to cut or grind a little off of the end of the nipple to take better advantage of the pipe thread taper.
 
In a pinch to drill hard metal you can use a carbide tipped masonry bit.
Doubt it will do you any good hear as then you still can't tap it out.
 
Cannot have that much sticking out as it would when raking hay grab the hay and wrap up the real.
 
Sounds like what I need, just don't know much about locktight. The only time I ever used it was probably about 30 year ago to keep the throttle lever tight on the B John Deere. And the link that was posted I did not find that on it. Have several rakes to rebuild and running out of used parts I can substute in. Not only this McCormick but have the same thing on the New Idea only on there they are the 1/4-28 thread while this McCormick is 1/8" pipe thread. Last year I bought close to a hundred grease fittings thinking they were the 1/8" pipe and turns out they are metric and I have no use for, anybody want. If the bearing could be retaped with new threads for them it would be nice but steel is too hard for tap. I don't think locktight has to be mixed like JB Weld that I have also never used. And I am just a couple of weeks away from being 74 and on farm all my life.
 
I got some of the green stuff yesterday and boy was it expencive, $31 and change for a bottle, did not have it in the small tubes like the red or blue.
 

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