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OT: Steering Rack Replacment

S

Steve@Advance

Well-known Member

Just installed a rebuilt steering rack on a 07 Silverado 1500.

The old rack was working, just worn tie rod ends and minor leaks, no internal mechanical failure.

Put the rebuilt unit on, cycled the wheel several times trying to get the air out, nothing happening, so cranked the engine for a quick start and stop, just to get fluid moving. Did that several times, turning the wheel with the engine off, getting as much air out as possible. Then started it and turned the wheel, it started shaking violently!

Shut it off, turned it back and forth a few times, the fluid was going up and down in the reservoir, so there is still some air in it. Let it sit, about an hour, started it up, all was quiet, no shaking.

The owner just called back, it's shaking again.

Anyone experienced this? I didn't have my vacuum pump, going to try vacuuming the air out Monday.

Do you think it's air or something wrong with the rebuild?

Thanks!
 
I would call/text the rebuilder or supply house that sold it. Bleeding at the rack connections might be needed. Jim
 
Just loosen the pressure line and start it, and cycle the wheel lock to lock. BTW, it could be a miss adjusted rack too.
 

What steps you took look good... I thought this was a ford problem and not a chebby problem :shock:

Start it up and turn it 20 times lock to lock and see if it takes care of the issue...
 
Steering wheel shacking back and forth? If so it is most likely a valve balance problem meaning the rack will need to be replaced. Sometimes when breaking into an old system the pressure control valve will get a piece of debris and want to stick, but wont cause more noise and shudder than shacking. The best way to bleed the system is to Mighty vac the steering system before starting. The next best way is to lift the front wheels off the ground slightly and turn the steering back and forth with the engine off -3 times. Then with the wheels still off the ground start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way left to right before it hits the stops or pressure relief. I wrote the bleed procedure using the Mighty Vac back in the late 90's when I worked for Steering Gear. I think I still have a PDF of the bleed procedure if you need it.
 
Thanks Kellyss, I'm leaning toward a bad rebuild too.

Been searching Youtube, haven't found any suggesting air could cause this.

I still want to vacuum it, just to say I did.

Not what I wanted to hear, but looks like it's coming back off...

Thanks!
 
Hobo, I'm going to try some more turning and purging.

Hoping some air will rise up and out over the weekend, he's scared to drive it, can't blame him!

Thanks!
 
Thanks Janicholson.

It came from Oreillys, so not going to get much help there. They will give me another one, just hate to have to go back into it!

The name on the box was Master Pro, don't know if they will talk to me or not...
 
Just remember OReillys will pay labor if it is a bad rack. And before someone says no,you must be a full time working shop. Not a DIY.
 
Good luck. You are on the right track. Some of the lower mounted power steering pumps were a bear to get the air out of so we came up with the vacuum bleed. The vacuum bleed also shows if you have a leak at an o-ring connection if it will not hold vacuum. You probably know this, but dont pull to much vacuum as it will pull air into the system past the power steering pump driveshaft seal. Please post what you find-
 
Most likely rebuilt by A1 Cardone, notater what name is on the box. They reman most all power steering parts for sale in the U.S. Cardone can't rebuild anything to save their life. You should have just put ends on the original. Minor leaks are not an issue usually. Cardone units usually have more or different problems than the one that came off originally. I cringe at P/S repairs when I know a pump or gear will have to be replaced. My personal record with Cardone is 5 pumps to get a functional one.
 

BTDT I have had to repair the old pump because the old pump was better than a rebuilt pump. Are order a pump from every parts store in town reject all of them have all of them order another and reject all of them. I believe they throw a new seal at them paint it and ship it.

The #1 thing to check is pump shaft side play it its worn don't waist your time it will come back. That's if you are lucky it does not go out while the customer is on the road out of town.

5 does seam to be the lucky number tho... :lol:
 
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