77 Kubota Tractor

All my stuff is old and gas powered.
I just purchased a 1977 Kubota diesel tractor. I don't know much about the tractor. All I know is, it was backed in to a metal building probably 15 or more years ago, and hasn't run since. My plan was to winch it out and trailer it. Then I got to thinking about putting a battery in it and trying to start it.
What are the things I should do first before trying to fire up this tractor that [b:58c69b8c6c]did[/b:58c69b8c6c] run but hasn't been started in so many years?
Any information is appreciated, and given to me, as if I were 5, would be helpful.
Thanks

Gordo The first thing you want to do is check the oil level in the engine. If it appears to be OVER the mark I would loosen the drain and check for water. Look at the fuel filter , if it has a water separator drain the water off. Check the clutch and make sure it is not stuck as that was a common problem back then. I think if it were me I might even try turning the motor by hand first just to make sure something was not on the piston and cause a bent rod. What model KUBOTA is the tractor. If you will post that I might offer some more suggestions.

Sorry about that. Hood says Double Traction L185DT
Oil level is about an inch over the full mark on the dip stick, and the clutch pedal feels normal.

That dip stick being over normal is not what I wanted to hear. Probably get 4 quarts of cheap oil and just plan on draining it. Better be safe than sorry. will be hard to tell if the clutch is stuck until it starts. Just be sure the main transmission is in neutral. That is a good model tractor, four wheel drive. Down on the lower right of the dash is a red knob. I would pull that out at first and see if the motor spins then after the oil pressure comes up see if it will fire off.

Not a problem. I will say the oil on the stick looked good. Not milky like my 9N did the first time I changed it after buying it.
What about the diesel fuel. Like I said, all I own is gas jobs. Can I just drain the diesel fuel in the tank and put new in? Trying to avoid getting air in the system or a vapor lock situation. Not familiar with these small diesels.

Gordo you get all kind of arguments on here but basically diesel fuel does not go bad. It might have picked up a little water over the years from condensation but as I said IF there is a water separator drain that and might change the fuel filter but if it were me I would pick up a quart of diesel fuel conditioner like 911 add it to the tank and try to start the thing. I hate either or starting fluid but you can put a rag over the intake hose and squirt a little gas on the rag might help it fire off. If you get a good hot battery, the glow plugs work I am going to bet it will start.

I had a B7100 Kubota for nearly 25 years. It was a good machine for its size, 16 horse power, largest engine for its frame size. Should have a Category 0 3 pt hitch. Get a good 12 volt battery, the largest size that will fit in the battery compartment, warm your "Glow Plugs", watch the glow plug coil on the dash and when it is glowing red hot your "Plugs" in the combustion chamber will also be hot and you can turn the key to get it going. put throttle about 1/4 opening and crank it over to start. I never needed to use a cooling water heater. It was a good machine in its day. Sometimes I wish I had mine back. You maybe able to find an operator's book and parts book here or on the Jensales Site.

I am having a tough time finding the correct Fuel Filter for this 77 Kubota L185DT. The serial # is L185DT-51742 The Model # is Z751-A
The only number I can get off the one that's on there now is 5GU, and Tokyo Roki. Everything else is Japanese, or directions on how to change it and when.
The only thing I can find regarding the 51742 is an entire fuel filter system. I just need the filter.
Thanks for any help.

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Img src = "http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/33390.gif">

This look anything like what you need?
Heres what WIXfilters.com shows...

<img src = "http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/33390.gif">

(quoted from post at 11:22:28 08/24/17) &lt;img src = "http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/33390.gif"&gt;

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Yes, it looks like it, but so does the one that isn't the right one.
Thanks for the link! I'll take all the measurements from the WIX site to make sure.
Supposedly, the part number I need is 15291.
Here is what comes up when I search for the filter that belongs on the tractor, and it looks exactly like the one that's on there, except the part # is 15221-43170. According to the serial number on the tractor I need 15291.
Mine looks like, and is the same make as this.

I want to change the oil. What should I use for engine oil in this tractor. I picked up a manual, but it doesn't really say what to use. Actually mentions SAE 10W 30 or 20 in the winter. I don't own any other diesels, but thought they used a different oil than gas engines.
Any recommendations are appreciated.

(quoted from post at 05:07:14 08/28/17) I want to change the oil. What should I use for engine oil in this tractor. I picked up a manual, but it doesn't really say what to use. Actually mentions SAE 10W 30 or 20 in the winter. I don't own any other diesels, but thought they used a different oil than gas engines.
Any recommendations are appreciated.

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Good that you are changing the oil. Not milky means nothing if it has not been run. The dipstick is waaaaay above the oil pump intake and oil floats above water. I would say that 95% of us here use a 15-40 all fleet. There are about three major brands. Shell Rotella has been popular for around thirty years. As jm. said diesel does not usually go bad, though biodiesel will. I before draining, I would just siphon some off the bottom to see what is there. I use a $2.99 transfer siphon from my local hardware.

Probably going to repeat a lot of what others have said, if it were me I would;

Check coolant and add as required.

Loosen drain plugs for engine oil, transmission, fuel tank etc as applicable and drain off any water that has accumulated.
Now check and top up oils as needed and confirm there is fuel in the tank.

I would not mess with the fuel filter right now as the last thing you need when trying to get an unfamiliar machine running is air in the system that you are not sure of how to properly bleed.

Open and check the air filter for nests, etc.
Visually do the same for the exhaust, under the dash and anywhere else rodent bedding could be that would cause grief.
Now is a good time to have a fire extinguisher handy.

Work the throttle linkage and fuel shut down if applicable and check for binding.

Look for a means of cutting off the fuel just in case something is stuck open that could cause a run away.
This could be anything from a pair of pliers to squeeze off a rubber fuel supply line to a hammer to flatten a metal supply line or a phone book to block off the air.

Carefully turn it over by hand to make sure nothing is seized or binding, make sure it is in shutdown mode and in neutral when you do this, just because it has been sitting a long time does not mean it can not fire right up with a half turn of the engine.
Make sure you are not in a position to get hurt if it suddenly fires up and starts rolling.

Next with it still in shut down mode, crank it over to get the oil circulating again.

If you have made it this far without any problems then try to start it, things like a stuck clutch could send you in motion but if it did not move during the previous steps you should be fine.

If it starts pay close attention to the gauges or warning lights, many an engine has been wrecked because someone figured a gauge was not working.

Let it warm up for a few minutes while observing for leaks and noises.

Try the brakes and steering, if all is good put it in gear and get it out of there.

Once you have it home then you can change fluids and filters.

Thank you all! Great information! I'll let you know how it goes, but may be asking a couple more questions before I do.
One thing is, there is no red knob anywhere on the dash. See below from JM.
"Down on the lower right of the dash is a red knob. I would pull that out at first and see if the motor spins then after the oil pressure comes up see if it will fire off."

(quoted from post at 07:46:30 08/28/17)
Thank you all! Great information! I'll let you know how it goes, but may be asking a couple more questions before I do.
One thing is, there is no red knob anywhere on the dash. See below from JM.
"Down on the lower right of the dash is a red knob. I would pull that out at first and see if the motor spins then after the oil pressure comes up see if it will fire off."

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Gordo, A friend had one of these, and I had one a little larger, 1986 model, and both had the red fuel shut-off knob. Perhaps there is a hole where there may have been one? Or you could look on the injection pump whre there may have been a point, other than the throttle control where one could have attached.

There is definitely a hole on the right side of the dash. I'll look closer the next time I'm working on it.
Both back tires are flat, and the rim is rusted around the valve stem, but no worse than my 9N is. The tractor isn't at my house yet, so it makes it hard to go back and forth, and remember what I'm supposed to look at.
Great information regarding the safety part of this move. Hadn't thought of that. I'm now picturing it starting and going right through the side of the metal building it's in, with nothing to stop it except the neighbors RV!

Not exactly tractor-related, but I was at a sale sometime back, man had brought in his diesel-powered Chevy Chevette--maybe Isuzu or Mitsubishi engine, I forget. Just a beat-up old car but unusual because of the diesel. Said it was parked maybe 15-20 yrs outside in his yard. Thought he could pop in a new battery and get it running because that's how it goes with diesels. Spent at least three hours, taking fuel system apart, checking injectors, getting it to crank because mice had eaten up the wiring. Nothing. All the while the bidders and auctioneer are getting closer. A good little crowd had gathered to offer support and see if he could get the Chevette running again. By the time the bidders came to his car, he still couldn't get it started, but it fetched $375 or thereabouts, bald and flat tires, torn up interior, uniform layer of rust over the body. I thought it was a pretty generous price.

I got my manual in the mail yesterday. The hole I was referring to on the right side of the dash is not for the red knob, JM referred to. It is the view port for the glow plugs.

So, today was the day. A buddy of mine and I replaced the old fuel with new, changed the oil and filter, cleaned out the air cleaner, as well as lots of other things, checked and double checked as many things as we could think of. Then we followed the check list 'Determined' laid out on page 1 of this post. I rotated the crank a few times, warmed up the glow plugs, and it started almost immediately. Let it idle for a while and just walked around it making sure all was well. Took it for a short ride, then played with all the accessories. Everything seems to work well. It was parked in 4 wheel drive. That's probably the only lever that's a little stiff. I didn't force it. I figure I'll give it a little run time, and try it again.
Anyhow, just wanted to let you folks know it's running, and to thank everyone who posted replies to my questions. I'm sure I'll have more as time goes by.

(quoted from post at 12:24:54 09/03/17)
So, today was the day. A buddy of mine and I replaced the old fuel with new, changed the oil and filter, cleaned out the air cleaner, as well as lots of other things, checked and double checked as many things as we could think of. Then we followed the check list 'Determined' laid out on page 1 of this post. I rotated the crank a few times, warmed up the glow plugs, and it started almost immediately. Let it idle for a while and just walked around it making sure all was well. Took it for a short ride, then played with all the accessories. Everything seems to work well. It was parked in 4 wheel drive. That's probably the only lever that's a little stiff. I didn't force it. I figure I'll give it a little run time, and try it again.
Anyhow, just wanted to let you folks know it's running, and to thank everyone who posted replies to my questions. I'm sure I'll have more as time goes by.

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Front wheel assist gearbox can get "loaded" by turning on pavement when engaged. It can make it hard to disengage. Try driving it in a straight line for ten feet. If it was loaded that will release it and it may slide out easily.

Good to hear you got it up and running without any major problems.
Plenty here that will do there best to help you with any further issues you may have.

Any chance someone could give me a detailed list of instructions on changing the fuel filter? I've ordered the air cleaner. Now, the only filter left unchanged is the fuel filter.
My manual doesn't really give a good description on how to change it, and I don't want to end up with air in the system.
Thanks

Ok, So I finally got my 77 Kubota home. Here's a couple pics. She needs a paint job, but everything works as it should.
Just wanted to thank all the folks who chimed in with their help!!