Old truck picture and problem

My 68 GMC service truck is constantly breaking off
the wheel studs on the front right wheel. Any idea
what causes that? It hasn't always, and none of the
other wheels do.
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a163466.jpg
 
Try moving that rim to the other side of the rear end and see if the problem follows the rim if it follow the rim then that rim is bent or the lug holes are bad or some such thing
 
Has it ever been run loose?

Possibly the surface of the hub or back side of the wheel, or both, are no longer true and flat.
 
Looks like you are missing your wheel plate. All my tonners have an additional plate that goes on over the studs after the wheel is installed, that the nuts tighten to. I've never known why they have this plate but it might be to spread out the load on the individual studs.
 
im noticing several things to check, obviously that tubeless rim didnt come factory on that year truck, make sure the rim is fully seating on the hub wheel mounting flange,not the center of the hub, also as stated those rims need the lock plate to mount correctly,the 16 inch gm dually rim does not have the lug nut taper in it, that missing plate does, what wrench size is the nut? should be 1 inch if needed i can take a pic of my chevy which has those rims for you, another thing ive had happen is; has the truck wheel been serviced at a tire shop before the problem started? untrained tire help seems to love to let the air wrench hammer after the nut is tight this will stretch the lug bolt causing failure
 
Do the studs have left or right hand threads? I would think they would have had left had threads on the right side but not sure on Chevys back then. I do agree with everyone's comments below. Left or right hand threads are the only thing I didn't see mentioned below.
 
It possible someone put a set of Ford rims on it, that's a no no...

Chevy rims of that vintage used a plate as mentioned the rim centers to the hub the plate centers the lug nuts (hub-centric). Ford centers to the lugs/studs and the lugs/studs may have been bigger ( lug-centric).

Figure out the issue DON'T GO SWAP'n RIMS one side to the other to prove you have a problem you already know you have :roll:
 
As others have said, you need the lug plate that goes with that style wheel. You will also need longer wheel studs. Those wheels do not have any bevel machined into the lug hole. It is just a straight hole. The plates have the bevel in them, and I guess the plate also puts more uniform pressure around the hub. I have three 70s and 80s C-30 trucks and they all have the lug plates.

Garry
 
Just my two cents. When you take the wheel off and on...is the centering hole nice and tight on the raised part of the hub. The wheel can work back and forth and stress the studs. Just asking.
 
I have a '69 1 ton. Mine does not have the stud plate/stiffener plate these guys are talking about. At least, they were not on there in '93 when I bought the truck. What I see is you don't have the correct lug nuts. They should be flat on the back and have slots in the face that are upset slightly so they act like lock nuts. I also think the lug nuts on mine may be 1 wrench size larger than you are running.

I got some of those nuts from an older NAPA store for my '53 1 ton last year. Your store may make you take a whole box of them to get the ones you need. (My '53 does have the stud plates on it. But its running 18" wheels.)
 
Some one has swapped on those rims for the OEM split rims.

Probably Ford rims. They're just about right.

Dean
 
Thanks for the tips. The front rims are different from the back ones. Seems like they say Firestone on them somewhere. Haven't had the plate since the truck has been here about '92, but it's something to look into. Also, no plate on the other side, and no trouble there.
 
If you break off a lug bolt knock ALL of them for that hub out and replace All by driving them into the hub. I was replacing one at a time as they would break off one or two each trip. I was just putting in a mew bolt and pulling them in with the nut. I explained my problem to a trash hauler customer and he gave me this advice and it worked. also use the plate and correct nuts as suggested. Broken lug bolts is serious business!
 
That year Chevy one ton (67-72 did not use the lock plate
As in 73 on.

My guess is bent wheel or not sitting properly on the hub/flange.
Assuming you have changed all the studs on that wheel and it keeps happening.
Tom
 
showing you the factory set up for firstone /gm wheels, the black ring has the taper for the lug nuts to tighten against, the whole ring applies clamping force around the wheel evenly also note lug nut size
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Could be the right side studs are breaking because the crown of the road puts a little more stress on the ditch side wheel. Might be just enough to give you trouble if you have the wrong rims. Just a thought.
 

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