I have a 2006 Ford F150 the ac works good at higher RPMs (going down the highway) when I come to a stop light it loses about 80% of cooling power...I just went and bought a can with a guage and it says it is fully charged-even a little in the red (overcharge)any ideas?..thanks
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GreenAcres
Member
Sounds like an air flow through the condenser issue, either it is plugged and needs cleaned or the electric cooling fan is not working (if it has one). The reason it shows it is full or slightly over is because the system is running so hot, more heat more pressure.
JohnLeePettimore
Member
I'll say the compressor is going bad. A set of AC gauges will tell you just about all you need to know. Air conditioning only has a few things that can go wrong. It is pretty simple.
JohnLeePettimore
Member
Also the guage on the can only reads pressure on the low side. You need a gauge to hook to the high pressure side to see if the compressor is working.
JohnLeePettimore
Member
My bet is still on the compressor. Harbor freight has a decent set of gauges that will help. If your pressures are equal on the high and low sides at idle, but come up when the engine rpm goes up the compressor is bad.
Roger Tomfohrde
Member
Without a gauge set that can see the high side I would go back to the condenser with a chemical to clean it first, it sounds like it is not getting rid of the heat and condensers can have air flow and still be dirty. Run a hose over it and see if the cooling gets better. Had an astro van that the fan clutch was not working also. It goes back to seeing what is going on with the high side-- If the pressure is low it is the compressor if high your condenser is the problem.
The first thing to check is air over condenser. If you have a powerful shop fan,blow air through condenser while truck idles. No big powerful fan?? Kick truck into neutral and let engine idle while going down hill at 40 plus mph. If cooling is good the fan control or fan clutch is bad.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
Without real gauge readings, it is difficult to pinpoint the problem on this one.
I can say that I have not seen compressor failures that cause loss of refrigeration at low RPMs. Airflow over the condenser is a good place to start. You might also try wetting the condenser with a hose while idling to see if the A/C improves. Clutch fan would be a likely culprit, but to really start getting to the root of the problem you need some gauge readings along with temperature readings. There are charts that can help point out the problem.
I can say that I have not seen compressor failures that cause loss of refrigeration at low RPMs. Airflow over the condenser is a good place to start. You might also try wetting the condenser with a hose while idling to see if the A/C improves. Clutch fan would be a likely culprit, but to really start getting to the root of the problem you need some gauge readings along with temperature readings. There are charts that can help point out the problem.
There are a couple of pressure switches in the lines that will fail like that and/or (more likely) your compressor clutch may be worn.
I can't describe the jumper to check, but the switches are fairly cheap to just replace. Compressor clutch may have too much gap: if engagement seems erratic at idle, check that. Adjustment requires removing the pulley then removing shim(s) as needed to get the gap down. The gap varies, but practice says any reduction will correct this as long as there is no contact until powered.
I can't describe the jumper to check, but the switches are fairly cheap to just replace. Compressor clutch may have too much gap: if engagement seems erratic at idle, check that. Adjustment requires removing the pulley then removing shim(s) as needed to get the gap down. The gap varies, but practice says any reduction will correct this as long as there is no contact until powered.
MARK ROBKE
Well-known Member
Was this reading when the engine was running,or off?Mark
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