No Spark-Pertronix ignition kit

I installed a Pertronix electronic kit in my 4230 Gas Deere last March,and after 15 hours running time, it has died. The tractor started and ran fine. After setting for a week the tractor ignition has no fire. What is a good way to analogize the no spark problem??? Thanks

gold-leaf-deere- Poor terminal connections or low charged battery.

hth

Check the simple stuff first. I would start at the module and make sure you have 12 volts there. If low or no voltage work your way back to the key switch and then the starter solenoid where the harness feeds off the battery cables. I have found the modules rarely fail but harness and key switch issue are much more common. Switches especially in damp weather.

Had the same thing happen to me, called them and they had me put the old coil back in,fired right up. They sent me a new coil.

Call them for help. I have always had good help and service from them. Over the years

Put it back original it will last forever. There seems to be too much posts about that stuff having trouble. I wasparked next to a John Deere at a show and his failed after a few starts said he was going back to original again and wasnt taking any addvice about changing any more of his tractors leaving them original.

Yep I am with Billy, give them a call, good folks I had a couple burn out on the same tractor a few months ago---turns out solid core wires that are old and cracked can leak and affect the electronics, put carbon fiber core wires on and everything is fine now

I have one on a tractor that had some voltage drop issues... enough that it wouldn't run the ignition module under certain conditions. It took a bit to figure out, but it has been in 15 years now. They will help you if you need it. I would never go back to points.

Kool theres been 5 replys about trouble with them in a short time but yet still swear by them.

Just unhook the wire going from the Pertonix module at the coil primary. Make sure the other primary terminal has power. Then hit the post with chassis-ground, off and on where the Pertronix wire had been. Do this with a spark plug stuck in the end of the coil wire and grounded. If it now makes spark - you can blame the Pertronix. If not, there are other issues. Very simple test that eliminates guessing and some people bad--mouthing Pertonix.

I have five engines with Pertonix. Oldest is 12 years. Never had a failure yet but I made sure I installed according to directions. I wonder how many failures are due to not doing so.

JDEM, I agree.

I've got one on a forklift that gets used daily, 20+ years. And it's a Continental engine with the distributor in the head, runs so hot you can't touch it! Points were a constant problem, haven't had the cap off in many years.

Of all the conversion kits I have installed, never had one go bad yet!



With the quality of today's points and condensers, I would only keep them for a correct show tractor.

I have one in a Continental also. A F140 as I recall with the distributor in head. Also in my 1960 Deere 1010 crawler. Also in two Homelite-Crosley outboard motors. Also in my Ford 641 tractor. Also in my IH 3414 backhoe. Also in my Deere 300 wheel tractor. I would NEVER go back to points again.

There were subtle and overt advantages over the old points system. Note all mine are the standard-power Pertonix I kits. There are two other versions. The overt advantage is no more having a no-start in the spring after sitting all winter and having to scrape my points with a pocket-knife. The more subtle advantage is smooter hot idling and better cold starting. I cannot say for sure whey better cold starting since all still have OEM coils. Maybe because of the rock-steady dwell-angle and elimination of the ballast resistor so the coil always gets full battery voltage when cranking (9-10 volts).

I just had to yank the magneto out of my Oliver crawler due to no spark. Every couple of years I have to do this and it is NOT a fun job on the Hercules engine. Always in the spring after sitting all winter. I wish Pertonix would come up with a breakerless kit for self-contained Wico magnetos.

If it was after labor day and at the Elnora show we would work on it lol

FYI

Just realize all the elec ignition does is replace the mechanical points which close then open the current path from the coils - output to ground. With points the coils - (if Neg ground) wired to the distributors points but for an elec ignition the coils - wires to the elec switch.

With ignition on there should be power to the coils + input (INSURE THAT) so if you remove the coils - output wiring and connect a jumper wire to the coil - instead, each time you momentarily short it to ground but then remove it THE COIL SHOULD FIRE. If so but NOT via the elec ignition and if there's power to the coils + input the switch or wiring has a problem.

If an elec switch ORRRRRRRRRR points are working right if you put a test lamp on the coils - output turn ign on and crank the engine over the light should flash ON (points or switch is open) and OFF (points or switch is closed). If it never comes ON there's a short, the points or wiring or condenser is shorted (or points never open) or coils open or there's no power to the coil, if it never goes OFF the points arent closing or wiring is bad or elec switch is bad.

If it has a magnet that fit over the distributor cam be sure its in place and there's an elec pickup coil where the points were that senses each time the magnet passed by.

HOWEVER I WOULD FIRST CALL THE VENDOR AND ASK THEM also insure power to the coils input with ign on, that has to happen with points or an elec switch.

John T

Pertronix and Flight Systems. Are the two companies that I know of that still has good customer service. Good people that know what they are talking about. Not some kid reading from a book. Flight systems rebuilds control boards. I have used them for over thirty years. Never had one of their boards fail.

You have 2 Homelite outboard motors? Still running?

I haven't thought of those things in years!

You must be doing something right! LOL

I am thinking of putting one of these systems on my WD45. From the different reports I have read there are 2 things that can make them go bad. One is using a stock coil and the other is using solid copper wires. Pertronix says to use 7mm or 8mm spiral wires.

Good points you raise, that's why its important to use a coil that's compatible with the current rating of the switch, be it stock or stock plus any necessary added ballast or one Pertronix sells to match the switch you use. Similar, some of the wires they use may have more inductance due to spiral wound conductors.

BOTTOM LINE CONSULT PERTRONIX not what anybody here (including me) has to say

I used to make up my own electronic ignition systems on old boats or tractors or other machines using early Chrysler or other modules

John T

THANKS for the info, I got side tracked today with three Doctor visits, I will get back to the 4230 in about a week and will start another post and let you fellers know what this 80 year old one eyed mechanic found out. THANKS Charles English A K A Gold leaf deere.

I don't know about the Petronix but on a Mallory that means replace the spark module . No spark -bad unit.

(quoted from post at 22:35:04 05/21/17) I installed a Pertronix electronic kit in my 4230 Gas Deere last March,and after 15 hours running time, it has died. The tractor started and ran fine. After setting for a week the tractor ignition has no fire. What is a good way to analogize the no spark problem??? Thanks

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Usually incorrect wiring or a 6V coil in a 12V system. All solid core wires will also cause problems. Should use spiral wound supression wires.