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Best all around tractor

G

George Boothe

New User
Hello all. I am new to the whole tractor thing and wanted to know what would be the best old tractor for all around use. By that i mean hauling, plowing, backhoe and loading operations. I can easily find IH and Ford 8 &9n tractors, as well as Farmalls in my local area or within a 3 hour ride. Now i know this will start some kind of argument as to the IH guys vs the ford guys vs the farmalls but in your opinion what is the best tractor of the tractors you have used for all around use.
Thanks for your time,
George
 
You want just one that'll do everything? Good luck.

I'm currently down to 2, 4500 lbs and 23000 lbs. They don't do the same things, but both are 4x4.
 
For a smaller farm (under 200 acres) I would have to say a D17 series 4 with 3 point. Its just a good soild tractor for everyday use around the farm. I have run lots of tractors over the years and a D17 is the one that gets the most use. Bandit
 
i have a small farm and am just starting out I really don't want to have to buy 2-3 machines to do most of what I need to do. Would love to be able to plow come unhook and them hook up a post hole digger and go plant some fence posts.
I know alot of the newer machines can do it but I don't have 20-30k to drop down on a tractor. Besides I like the old iron better.
 
If you want one for backhoe work,you aren't going to be able to do those other jobs unless you have a 3pt backhoe. And with one of those,the smaller Fords aren't going to do the job.
You need to do a little more research than just taking a poll on here.
 
I am still doing my research just thought maybe someone with a little more experience or maybe someone with a machine that can do most of the work around the farm would have some solid advice. I know certain machines will do some stuff that others can't and vice versa. I just wanted to know if anyone had a set up that really worked for them all around the farm to give me a good place to start that's all.
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:33 01/16/11) Wait a minute!!! Are you saying that we won't have/can't have a consensus? :>)
Click to expand...

if that was meant for me.. when it comes to opinions we all disagree at some point..lol.

and so far I have only had one person offer up his opinion on what he thinks would work all around the farm.
 
All my tractors have been well under $10k, but 4x4 is required here, and for best loader work.

Using the rear end of the tractor, most anything will do if you have enough weight. One of my neighbors bought pretty much what you originally asked about, including a detachable hoe. He left $55k at the NH dealer. Nice tractor, but it didn't come with a kitchen or bath. And he's waiting for me to visit with my large one, for which he's happy to pay $85/hr.

I was fortunate to find a small hoe attachment for $2k. Rigid undermount's the answer there.
 
No such thing as the "best all-around" tractor for everybody.

If you want to run a 5-6 foot brush cutter, and also be able to run rear equipment like a 5 foot rototiller or a 6 foot snowblower - as well as standard tractor work, you need in an older tractor. Remember that a diesel always has less power then a gas engine if bore and stroke are the same (unless turbocharged):

A gas engine 130 cubic inches or bigger, or . .
A diesel engine 140 cubic inches or bigger . . .
A three point hitch . . .
A live PTO . . .
A transmission with hi-low range . . .
Live hydraulics

And, you can add "luxuries" like power brakes, differential lock, and power steering IF you want to pay for them.

Those requirements elimnate many tractors like . . Case VAC, Ford 9N, 2N, 8N, etc.

Then there's the issue of simplicity and access to parts at a reasonable price. That also changes things.

Parts are scarce for many older tractors.

Ford, Ferguson, Massey Ferguson, IH, Case and Deere still have good parts support depending on the model tractor.

In my area, the IH B-275 and B-414s pr 3414s are often great bargains. Great parts support, and all have . . live hydraulics, hi-low trans, differential lock, and all I've seen also have live PTOs. I've bought several in diesel and gas for less then $1000.

Ferguson TO-35 Deluxe or MF35 also excellent but tend to bring more money. TO-35 also does not handle heavy weight on the back as well as the IH B-275s and B-414s.

Ford - some number series in 600-800-900 have live PTO but never hi-low. Some have a 5 speed trans though that is barely adequate in 1st gear and still fast in reverse. Later Thousand-series built on the British platform usually have hi-low and are great tractors. And I'm not counting aftermarket underdives since most also screw-up PTO speed.

Deere - 1020, 2020, 300, 400 - all had hi-low gear trans and power brakes. Many also came with hydraulic hi-low or reverser, live PTO, etc. Very pricey though, as are some of the proprietary parts. In my opinion, one of the best utilty tractors made in this size and age.
 
Just buy A John Deere 4020 with a front end loader. You can rest assured if you don't like it you can resell it and not loose.
 

Thanks for that info. I have been learning a lot since I have been looking for tractors. I have seen a lot cross breeds out my way such as ford tractors with Massey equipment mounted to them, don't know if that's the norm or not. I guess I could just start with a simple plow and loader set up and start from there. I can get a few for under $2000 in my area. Farming is big here in south jersey.
 
While only one would be the most practical it's not near as fun.

I am up to 5 now, each with it's particular "best" use.
It's nice to be able to go start the tractor I need and get the project done. But I'm getting to the point where my back doesn't like wrestling implements. It's also turned into a hobby messing with old Farmalls
 
I have a 1650 cockshutt deisel 65 Hp.No 3 point but do have a loader on it.Payed $2500 for it 5 years ago.Farmed 100 acres with it used the loader to push in poles and now I'm hooking up a Hoe to the back.I do have to make brackets to go around the axles and hitch to mount but that's not impossible.I now have a 2470 for feild work and the 1650 is good for haying.If you can find somthing like this with 3piont would be a great tractor for you I'm sure.

8n-9n seems to me are under powered and a little small for loader work.My dad always told me buy a 1070case 886 Ih or somthing like that for less money than a smaller tractor and at least you got somthing.

if I did it again I would shop around for a tractor with 3 point even if it cost me 2 thousand more.I do like the 1650 but now if I want 3 point I have to buy 1 more tractor and then I have to many motors to service.
 
*n and IH H etc are too old and don't have features for serious work. I would look for something made in the 60'sor 70's Ford 2000, 3000, 4000, Masser 135, 165, Deere 1020, 2020. I am not familiar with IH. These have 3 pt, live power, Hi-Lo transmission and power steering. They will do good with a loader also. Just don't expect Industrial level loader work.

As to equipment You can mix and match brands but some pieces of equipment do better work than others. Ford and Ferguson made really goos 3 pt equipment.

For bachhoe work hire it done or rent one.

Jerry
 
For me, here, I've settled on the 7xxx series Fords. Certainly not the best all around for everyone on every farm but it fits my needs. For all intents and purposes I dont plow any more so I no longer have need for 6 cylinder engines. Turbo charged 4 cylinders take less fuel unless I need their fullout put of horsepower.

The designs are simple and straight forward. There is good parts support both through New Holland and after market. Parts cost is not overly expensive.

Right now I've got 4 of them, a pair of 7600's and a pair of 7610's. Also, over similar ancestry is a 5600 which I like for general farm use and the most recent addition a TB110 which I needed to add for the extra horsepower and cooling capacity for an 11.5 foot discbine.

Lots of others brands would have worked but I like having everything alike. It makes it worthwhile to inventory more parts. I really really liked the Case David Browns, especially the 1210's and 1410's. They were much easier on fuel but parts were about a third higher and, to me, it seemed everything on them was behind something else when I went to repair them.
 
Wow, there is an opened ended question with just enough info to start a fight.

Flat lander, hills, sand,loam or clay? Dry or wet? Snow? Do you have a shop and are you handy repairing equipment? How many hours a year? Do you prefer to purchase cheap now and pay the price of the new tractor over the next 5-15 years in parts? Local dealer(s)? Brand loyalty.
As soon as you said loader/backhoe work or ploughing in clay. Ford toy ford N series is out of consideration.
While I bleed green those Massey 35/135/235/65/165/265 do ok. Some late utility sized White,Olivers, Internationals etc ok too.
If it doesn't have a factory 12V alternator electrical system, a real drawbar, live high pressure hydraulics, live pto, decent brakes and diff lock. Forget about it.
May as well get a roll over protective system too however many hero's here will tell you a rops isn't needed. And it's forcing safety down the throats of American's freedom wah wah wah.... Lots of postings here however of Joe Farmer of 30,40 50 years rolling his tractor on top of himself.

For the price these machines will work.Have long term dealer support by a financially sound company.Excellent parts support. Good financing and warranty. Excellent retained financial value. Of course some green hater who's Daddy's favorite tractor company has gone bankrupt is going to squawk and say too much $$$. Well figure the total $$$ spent and retained value over the next 10-20+ years.

http://www.deere.com/specsapp/CustomerSpecificationServlet?sbu=CCE&pciModel=4005%20LV&displayModelName=4005%20Compact%20Tractor%20(41.5%20hp)&tM=HO&pNbr=1460LV

 http://www.deere.com/specsapp/CustomerSpecificationServlet?sbu=CCE&pciModel=4105%20LV&displayModelName=4105%20Compact%20Tractor%20(40.5%20hp)&tM=HO&pNbr=1490LV

http://www.deere.com/specsapp/CustomerSpecificationServlet?sbu=CCE&pciModel=5075ELV&displayModelName=5075E%20Utility%20Tractor%20(75%20hp)&tM=HO&pNbr=5075ELV
 
Only 5? I've got one that's been hooked to the silage cart for so long I don't know if I could get them apart. Another one gets the 3pt hay rake put on when I start first cutting and it doesn't come off until I'm all done with the last cutting.
Two loader tractors,one for round bales,the other for silage and manure.....and the list goes on.
 
well i had farmed on my granddads farm on his old farmall. it was flat Alabama clay soil he used to grow lots of corn on. The land I am purchasing is up north in Maine. It is mostly flat with small gently inclines. Which means I will be moving a little snow with it. I have talked to a few of the local farm owners around here and they have told me some stories of tractor roll overs. It seems i may need more info before I purchase my tractor.
 
I have yet to find any one that is the best. Each one has its good and bad points and each does a job different then the others do. I have all the common colors so I compare them all the time. I use to different brands to bale hay and have in the past used many others. Most years when I bale hay I have at least a pair of Olivers out there. One cuts the hay with a moco and the other pulls the round baler. Then I have one for a back up for the moco with a sickle mower and most years a pair with rakes and then a back up baler tractor with a square baler on it and then a loader tractor for moving the big bales. All of them are different colotrs. Allis, Faramlls, Fords, JDs and Olivers. Each has its weak and strong point
 
I'm in a mountain and side-hill farming area. Roll-overs are rare . . . at least with farmers.
You just have to use a little common sense. E.g., if you going up a real steep hill with heavy equipment on the rear hitch, go up backwards. If going sideways on a steep bank, keep rear stuff low to the ground.

If you want to have some fun, try driving a backhoe wheel/loader on hills. Takes a lot thinking and moving the hoe into various positions - as a counterweight.

The few roll-over (or flip-over) deaths I've heard about in past 30 years were city-people on newly bought tractors like Ford 9Ns or little Fergusons.

That being said, a life-long farmer/neighbor got killed in a roll-over here last year. Guess how? Not working his fields with a real tractor. He rolled over his John Deere lawn-mower on the bank in his front yard and got killed. Hard to figure, but I've never had all the details. Just that his Deere garden-tractor landed on his chest. He was 68 years old and farmed his entire life.
 
You won't catch any he!! from me. In fact, I agree with you 100%. I would just add a couple of qualifications to your nomination: 3020 diesel, and syncro-range transmission.
 

Buickanddeere makes some good suggestions.
I might mention one more thing.

If you get one with a loader, make sure it has power steering.
Surprisingly, there are a few out there that don't have it. And all that extra weight on the front wheels, will wear you plum out at the end of the day.

Makes my arthritis hurt just thinking about it. :)
 
George, I wish I had asked what you are asking, back in 1998. I bought an old B allis, which I still have, and then a wd45, for my big tractor. since then I have added two more small allis tractors, a moline utility, and a farmall 350. I still need a real tractor! such as real live hydraulics, live PTO,adjustable width front end, ROPS, and most important a slow field speed, or creeper gear. buickandeere told you the best answer that I have read today,look hard at the MF utility tractors, that are affordable. wider wheel base helps stabilise a loader, so you don't have to prove your ROPS works. good for hilly ground.
 
You're asking a real open ended question. The best tractor for a loader and backhoe isn't usually the best tractor for plowing and field work. As far as a tractor with an alternator, other than replacing a bearing, I've never had a problem with the generator on my MF135 in 30 years. You need to give some more information in order to get a better answer. How much land do you have? What's the main use of the tractor? How big of implements to you want(HP)to run? And the biggest question, how much do you want to spend? A tractor with a loader, backhoe, plow and other implements is going to cost a bunch of money. If you only want to spend a few thousand dollars, you won't get the best tractor. Dave
 

Whatever you think you can get by with, add 20 HP to it.I didn't and am regretting it (read my plenty of posts about tractor shopping). You spend your money better and do the job quicker with T posts than fooling around with wooden posts and a driver. Front loader and some kind of back blade would be a must but how important is a backhoe? Better to spend a little extra up front than nickle and diming later. Advise given me that I'm trying to follow is Ford 3 or 4000, MF 135 or 165, or something comparable, some type of cab (maybe a heat houser?) would make chores much more fun in nasty weather. You want an allrounder, but you need to enjoy your daily chores on what you pick. Myself, not really being a tinker, I want diesel. If you like to piddle, get gas (no offense, just my opinion). Plenty of good advise but Jdemaris is like Mama Gump.. He has a way of explaining things so guys like me and you can understand them :roll: Maybe you can talk him out of his british international.

Good Luck.


Dave
 
MASSEY-FERGUSON 65 GAS OR PROPANE, FOR ALLAROUND VALUE, DEPENDABILITY, DURABILITY. NIK, 25-85 NICHOLS & SHEPARD STEAM TR
 
As others have said, forget the 8n/9n/2n unless all you want to do is pull a wagon or do light work like raking. A backhoe, and I mean a real one- not one of those jokes they sell to hitch to a 3 pt., means an industrial. There are agricultural platforms with good loaders, but not backhoes.

I'd look for something at least 45 hp, with standard 3 pt. If you want a loader get one with actual power steering, not "power assist" or any of the halfway systems from the 60's. I personally don't find live power to be a huge issue, others consider anything less completely unworkable. You don't need diesel, but they sell better. Hydraulic systems varied over the decades and what you get today is nothing like what you got in '58 or even '68.

On a personal level, I like Case. You need to find what appeals to you, and then look for a good price.
 
My parents made do for the last 35 years with a Massey 135. Good fuel economy, good parts availabiltiy. I cannot see how you could go wrong with a MF135, 150, 165, 50, 65, Ford 3000 or 4000. There are many more good ones out there, but these are well supported around here.

Aaron
 
The 806D farmall is probably one of the handiest tractors ever. Possibly the best IH ever built. Dad used ours for field work when he first got it, but now it gets used as a chore tractor and can do it all. They had some shifter problems but thats easily repaired.
 
thanks guys for all the helpful info. Now I have a good place to start from and I'll start looking from there. The land I am buying is a little over 40 acres. Small 6-14 inch round trees all over it so I will need to remove them first. But once removed I'll be using either a disc or tine plow and maybe a tiller in the winter time. probably a rack at some point. Mostly I want a good tractor to start with that I can add pieces to later on to get most jobs done on the farm.
My ideal farm.. 3 acres for house and place for kids to play, 15 acres for cows,pigs, chickens, and a few horses, and the other 22+ for the farm fields.
 
George, I have many tools for wood working, there isn't one perfect tool that can do everything. I think the same is true when it comes to tractors, that is why I have 2 tractors and a backhoe. I wouldn't want to have to remove the loader/backhoe from a tractor to use it for another purpose. Besides when you add loaders and hoes to tractors, you usually come up short on having enough hydraulics to get the job done efficiently. Keep in mind that some older tractors don't even have hydraulics you can easily tap into. I think you first need to look at how many horses you need, do you want live hyd or PTO?

George
 
The guys are all right, tractors are kinda like women,it's hard to say what woman is right for you, but you will know when you see her. We have a WD 45 and a 6060 Allis, 4010, 4040, 4320 Compact John Deere that we use and a 480E Case backhoe. The one I like the most is the 4320 Compact, Cab and 4X4 Hydro trans. Has a Loader with quick change bucket and a quick coupler on the 3 point. I love it. It would be just right for you except it is as much as a new pickup.
 
Hi, I have two tractors on 13 acres. Ones a Oliver 1755D (86 HP) with 3 point hitch. Weighs 12,000lbs +/- with liquid in the rears and 1000 lbs in front. I use it for everything that you mentioned except the backhoe, loader work and on the small manure spreader. It would work fine for the loader work if I had one but the backhoe work I don't think I'd try. Too many stories of broken frames with backhoe use. My second tractor is a M Farmall without a 3 point. It pulls my spreader, some of the smaller tree trunks, occasionally the hay rake and mostly the utility trailer when I'm cutting trees. I use the Oliver for pulling tree stumps up to about 10-12 inches. Hint- cut them as high as you can comfortably do so and hook the chain or strap as high as possible to increase the leverage on the stump. Which brings me to the question of how many tree are you looking at removing? All 40 acres? If so you have YEARS of work ahead of you with using only one tractor. Take the advice from the others and hire it out to someone with a track loader or dozer and excavator in the 50K lb range or bigger. They can get it done in a weeks time AND clean up the roots. But the bill will be in 10k+ range for 10hrs a day at $140 an hour for 7 days. Be really pushing it to get 40 acres done in a week though depending on tree size and terrain. But then again you wouldn't be clearing all 40 acres. Anyway, as a poor acreage owner myself I'd have to agree that a 'one size fits all' tractor isn't feasible. My '74 1755 cost $5500 5 years ago. And if I could swing it I'd get a reasonable sized skid-steer for the rest of the work. One with a heated and cooled cab -for example a Deere, Bobcat or Case. I know Bobcat has ALL kinds of rent-able attachments that will fill just about any need. HTH Have fun searching.
 
For small farm projects I would keep 2. A Ford 2000 3cyl.gas with a 4x2 tranny,ps and lpto. The other would be the Ford 800(850). The 800 had about 8-10hp more then the 2000. You could tell it on the bush hog or plow.

For the start of my tractor collection it would be the TO30. I had alot of 3pt. Ford and Ferguson stuff.

As for a loader. I would probably go with the 800,it being the heavier tractor. The tractors I grew up with did not have power steering or live pto. I learned to live it.

Stephen

ps I retired, sold out and moved south. NM
 
40 acres. Wow.
Don't know if I could afford the land and all the tractors I'd need to to run that much land.
Heck, I need 3 1/2 tractors just to keep on top of things on my 1/5th acre city lot.
Seriously though, get a tractor that has factory 3 point hitch - or you'll wish you had. On 40 acres I can't see you needing more than 50 - 60 HP.
I would suggest you look at some of the Fords from the late 60s onward - 3000,4000,5000 - reliable, good parts availability, nimble and just plumb handy within their respective HP ranges.
Personally I'd rather buy a good clean tractor that's still in her work clothes than one that's all dandied up and prettyfied.
 
Depends on your location, North-South, East west? Cold-Hot? Hilly flat?
That said a nice IH 886 with a cab would be a good jump off point.
 
(quoted from post at 01:14:54 01/17/11) 40 acres. Wow.
Don't know if I could afford the land and all the tractors I'd need to to run that much land.
Heck, I need 3 1/2 tractors just to keep on top of things on my 1/5th acre city lot.
Seriously though, get a tractor that has factory 3 point hitch - or you'll wish you had. On 40 acres I can't see you needing more than 50 - 60 HP.
I would suggest you look at some of the Fords from the late 60s onward - 3000,4000,5000 - reliable, good parts availability, nimble and just plumb handy within their respective HP ranges.
Personally I'd rather buy a good clean tractor that's still in her work clothes than one that's all dandied up and prettified.
Click to expand...

Me too I'd like to take a girl to the dance that's been there once or twice rather than one that's never been out of the house. so to speak. My granddad told me he knew he wanted his tractor for his 5 acres the moment he drove it around the farmers driveway. I've never had to pick one out so that is why i came here. From some of the other posts I felt you guys would welcome my question and answer it without too much fighting..lol. And so far I was right.
The funny part is my wife is a city girl I was raised in the country and after being in the city I find that pull back to the country is too strong to ignore anymore. She said I should get a peddle tractor to start out with to make sure I can handle a real one...ROFL....But since I already purchase the land she's on the losing end of this fight. and she knows it.
 
Shoot I only have 44 acres and I have around 30 or so tractors and could still use a few more LOL. But I do buy them cheap and work on or should I say play with them and get them back into working shape and then sell and look for the next one to play with
 
Which ever is more available/cheap of the 72-75 Ford 4000 and 5000, preferably in the AP (All Purpose) chassis.
In many respects that pair is two of the best tractors ever made.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 18:08:34 01/16/11)She said I should get a peddle tractor to start out with to make sure I can handle a real one...ROFL....But since I already purchase the land she's on the losing end of this fight. and she knows it.
Click to expand...
ttps://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a30139.jpg[/img]
 
wife laughed her butt off..lol she said she would only after seeing me in one of those little peddle tractors.. i'm 6'2" tall and 260lbs. ROFL
 
I"m not gonna say that this is the best tractor everbuilt cause it ain"t! But we have a IH 684 with a 2250 IH loader on it and it is by far the nicest loader tractor I"ve driven. It"s easy shifting! It"s nimble in tight spaces. And I tell you what, that old D239 German diesel packs a punch! So I would say that a 84 series is a good all around tractor.
We used to do everything with that tractor! Plow, disk, sow oats, plant corn, flail chop, bale hay, cut hay, rake hay, haul silage, grind feed, and it still did all the loader work and blade work!
 
(quoted from post at 08:32:20 01/16/11) Hello all. I am new to the whole tractor thing and wanted to know what would be the best old tractor for all around use. By that i mean hauling, plowing, backhoe and loading operations. I can easily find IH and Ford 8 &9n tractors, as well as Farmalls in my local area or within a 3 hour ride. Now i know this will start some kind of argument as to the IH guys vs the ford guys vs the farmalls but in your opinion what is the best tractor of the tractors you have used for all around use.
Thanks for your time,
George
Click to expand...

If I had to sell my 90+ tractors and keep only one, it would be my Allis 175 diesel.
 
(quoted from post at 08:49:38 01/16/11) For a smaller farm (under 200 acres) I would have to say a D17 series 4 with 3 point. Its just a good soild tractor for everyday use around the farm. I have run lots of tractors over the years and a D17 is the one that gets the most use. Bandit
Click to expand...

Just curious if you have ever used a 175D before? I was moving some tractors around last night and went from a 175 to my D17 SIV diesel and thought how awkward it seemed compared to the 175....sounded better :D , but not as nimble. The seating position and hydrostatic steering make a big difference in my opinion....
 
This has probably already been hit on in the last 4 pages, but there is no such thing.

You specifically mention backhoe and loader work. A tractor that is good at that is not good at anything else, or at the very least, there is so much work involved in taking the backhoe and loader off that you will either leave them on all the time or leave them off all the time. You won't be going from digging a trench in the morning to mowing brush in the afternoon. Either the brush will be left to grow or the trench will get hired out.

Modern compact tractors notwithstanding, of course, but you are talking about older tractors. These newer compacts are all quick-attach everything and have integrated frames so they can transform from farm tractor to TLB in minutes. All that means $$$, though.
 
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