A question for you Lug Nuts out there.

Adirondack case guy · Apr 8, 2017

I went to the local Temco store a couple days back and bought a 10pk. of lug bolts for my wood hauler. I asked about the angle of the bevel on the heads. They said that is what they sell!!
I went to put them in yesterday and compared them to a few old ones that I had. My old ones appear to have a 45degree bevel and a 3/4" hex head. The new ones are 60 degree with 13/16" heads. Do you think they will hold the new rims tight with a 10,000# load of wood in the hauler.
I decided to buy new 8x16" rims and fitted them with new ST235/80R16 12 ply trailer tires. Bare in mind that 1/3 of the load on the hauler will be carried on the tractor pulling it.
Loren

Michael Soldan · Apr 8, 2017

I don't think the degree of taper will make any difference, pressure will be exerted evenly on the rim. All the taper seems to do is center the lug in the hole on the wheel. I'm thinking sequential tightening of the lugs will let them all center themselves on the wheel and then tighten down hard. It just depends how big a wrench you want to use as to the size of the head on the lug..my two cents(from a country that doesn't use pennies anymore)

Philip d · Apr 8, 2017

What a nice wagon Loren!

Dan in North Houston · Apr 8, 2017

I had some missing lug nuts on the wheels on my bat wing mower, so I took one in to the local O'Reillys, thinking it would be a pretty standard item. I had no idea there were so many different lug nuts out there, their catalog must have had several hundred listed. They were able to match them up exactly, but had to wait a day while they were shipped to the store.

dahlin · Apr 8, 2017

I think after the first load the holes will form to the taper of the lug think I would bring your lug wrench with and check often could loosen up. Randy

el6147 · Apr 8, 2017

as you know those bolts were sold by Tisco, Tisco is now owned by SMA. SMA has the correct bolt for your application in 1 inch, 1 1/4 inch and 1 1/2 length, email me and I can give you the part no#.

paul · Apr 8, 2017

I mix and match with farm equipment that rolls down the road at 20mph, but on a heavy hauler you are taking behind a pickup I would want to order in the right lug nuts to match your rims.

Note that if you change rims they might not match the old bolts either, it goes both ways?

Paul

gene bender · Apr 8, 2017

the new ones will do a great job the 15deg difference will not hurt anything you will do with that trailer behind a tractor

Janicholson · Apr 8, 2017

I will be clearly on the side of replacing them with the correct countersing bolts. 15 degrees is massive in terms of metal to metal. the problem is that the single ring contact between the new bolts and the rims is a stress riser. High pressure from both load and tightening are applied to a tiny ring of metal. This will not support the compound forces applied to the wheel under load of wood while traversing rough ground. The wheel holes will deform and loosen. You could have the wheel holes countersunk to match, or buy the correct bolts. But they need that 3/16" wide tapered surface to be safe and at least not ruin your nigh effort brand new trailer. Jim

Adirondack case guy · Apr 8, 2017

That was my thought also, and why I asked. I researched the Miller tire site and they offer what looks to be a 1/2x20 lug bolt with 45 degree bevel. Went to specs. and they gave dimensions, but listed a 90 degree dimension, and called it a cap screw, but pictured a lug bolt with bevel. This coming week I will go to Runnings and see what they have.

Bob · Apr 8, 2017

You MAY find it interesting to look at the Baum Iron info I posted in the hub repair thread...

Note the angle of the wheel bolts they sell. Only one 60? option, conical nuts are 90? as well, with one 100? option.

Wonder what the specific application of the 60? bolts is?
Page F3

hd6gtom · Apr 8, 2017

my 22 years experience in the tire shop and out along the road fixing peoples screw-ups tells me to advise you to take 1 of the old lug bolts to your local NAPA and get the right ones. Any tire shop in your area that sells farm tires will probably have them in stock too. Try to get a jack under a 10000 lb load of wood after the wheel comes off. Been there done that with farm wagons and trailers. You don't want to have too

jon f mn · Apr 8, 2017

Those are "hub piloted" rims and hubs. That means the center hole slides tight on the hub so the bolts only clamp the rim to the hub and the center hole carries the weight. Buying new bolts will just waste your money.

Janicholson · Apr 8, 2017

The 90 degree is 45 on a side. The included angle, rather than the angle from Centerline. It will be fine. Jim

Janicholson · Apr 8, 2017

I agree with your thought, but the issue (on or off road) is side forces. In a situation with ruts or rocks, the wedging action can exceed the radial force of the load. On the road, an avoidance maneuver or high speed turn, that side force is dramatic, and deadly. I go for the safest choice. Jim

GlenIdaho · Apr 8, 2017

Carrying 10,000 lbs of weight may be over the limit for 16 in and 6 lug wheels. It appears to be a single axle trailer as well so more than likely you will be over limit on the axle. You may end up bending the axle. BTDT 6 lug wheels usually max out at 6,000. Check the link below.
Wheel weight capacities

jon f mn · Apr 8, 2017

I can certainly agree with your point for any road trailer at least.

caterpillar guy · Apr 8, 2017

If you're worried about the bolts you need bigger axle tires and wheels. I know it was from an old running gear. This is why I use old truck axles. The wheels ,tires and bolts seem to carry the load just fine.
you should be fine with them since you will only have about 6500 divided on 2 wheels with the other 1/3 on the drawbar.

tom stalker · Apr 8, 2017

Loren...I have 45* and 60* countersinks if you need one

Can skim a little off so the angles match

Steve@Advance · Apr 8, 2017

My 2 concerns would be:

The 60* taper will go deeper into the wheel hole, and bottom the taper of the bolt against the threaded hole in the hub before tightening against the wheel.

If it does not bottom, all the load will be concentrated on the ID of the hole instead of distributed across the face of the chamfer.

Might pull one out, look at the contact pattern. I personally would feel better with the correct bolts.

Adirondack case guy · Apr 8, 2017

Thanks for the expert info. The descriptions on some wheel/tire sites are rather confusing. I will find some proper beveled studs for the wheels.
I am well aware that I am pushing the limits with the axle assy., but I have narrowed it 10" and have reinforced the axel tube. Just hoping the spindles will take the lateral loads, pitching to and fro from humps, bumps and ruts, in the wood roads with a full load of wood.
Loren

jon f mn · Apr 8, 2017

Turns out you are right, I was talking to Loren tonight and figured out that I was thinking of the angle reversed, thinking the outer edge would hit first. With the 60? angle the boot might bottom first before getting tight, so that would leave the posibility for problems. For what ever reason I was thinking the outer shoulder would hit first which wouldn't have made much difference.

A question for you Lug Nuts out there.

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