Chicken Coop Roof - Metal or ?

Building a new coop for laying hens. This is my 3rd coop in a few years. The last two were not mobile so I am building this one where a tractor can pull it on a trailer, or to a new home. I built a sled out of 4x4's with angle cut ends so it can be pulled easily with one of the tractors. Works slick moving it to its current spot.

I am to the point of a roof. Before I used plywood and shingles but that adds quite a bit of weight. I am thinking about using metal roofing this time around however I have no experience with metal roofing. Poking around on the internet many people say to put tar paper/roofing felt over the joists, then install 1x4's, then metal goes on top. It seems a concern is condensation hence the felt paper. Some were even saying sheathing.

If I start adding felt paper, sheathing, the cost is not any less than shingles and there is no weight savings. However condensation is not something I want in the coop either given I am in New England and that can lead to sick hens. Anyone else use metal on a coop?

We have a mobile coop type thing for meat chickens. It has a metal/ProRib roof. Matthew L

You could just use a small fan running to keep the coop dry during times of excess moisture. If you found you had that problem. I don't think unless you add some heat you will have a problem with condensation.

Just battens on rafters, metal roofing on battens?

you need think about heat in the winter how do you keep water and chickens warm in the winter. better use plywood sheathing and shingles for the roof wont get as hot in summer either or don't you care about the health of the chickens.

I have made more than a couple chicken tractors. I make mine 8'x10' A frame with an enclosed area off the ground approx 18" the enclose area is lined with luan and foam insulation goes on that. I use hardware cloth around the bottom not chicken wire. I reinforce the corners with iron straps because after two years the screws tend to pull out of the 4x4s. People around here call them chicken palaces. they have security lights automatic door closers and space for 24 laying hens. I also make my own feeders and waters out of cat litter buckets.

I forgot I just use sheet metal on 2x4s

One interesting item i came across was a guy put eves on the coop and then ran that to a pan . If you look at the dew that collects on a steel roof in the summer its not a bad idea.

Both of mine have metal roofs. I also put a slat floor so the crap falls through,then pull it to the next spot.

I made a 6x12x8 ft lean to on 4x4 skids with metal on roof and enclosed just back with siding. It was light enough to pull around with tractor.

NOT A GOOD IDEA. A 30 mph gust of wind tipped it over, damaged the metal beyond repair, and damaged the frame work.

If you want to pull it around, better make it heavier, wider and stake it down. You could have some upset chickens if you don't.

Chickens need one thing in the winter. A draft free building. Chickens have feathers. They're just like wild birds.

all three coops have metal roof with chicken wire sides and roll up tarps for bad weather or winter

We have a whole lot of chicken houses in my area and I have yet to see even one with a shingle roof.

I used furring strips and screws for my metal chicken roof, no sheeting or felt. I leave a window cracked a small amount in the winter to reduce moisture. The wall sheeting is 4 by 8 sheets of siding I got from Lowes. Mine is mounted on double 2 by 6 skids. Make sure you cross brace the building well to pull it around. My building is 8 by 8 with an 8 by 16 pen.

When considering a metal roof, strap the rafters with 1x 4' or 2 x 4' and use Tyvec (house wrap) under the metal roof. Condensation will not be a problem - builder for 40 years). HTH

P.S. keep the wrap tight !

When I built my deer stand I used 1/2 inch basswood boards & covered them with rubber roll roofing. Still good after 12 years.

They now make a steel roofing with a sprayed on foam . No need for any under layment on the roof.

We have 6 "portable" chicken houses, most of them 8x12; 5/8" doug fir ply floor, 5/8 T1-11 siding, aspenite roof and shingles. Heavy? Oh yeah, but they've held up to 80mph winds, and I've moved them with my Super A with 3pt (Worksaver) hay forks with a chain wrapped around the fork 'arch' and hooked to the 4x6 stringers (with a 2x6 float board under them cut with 45 angles on long edges makes for easier turns), and 45's on the short ends too. Yes, the front end of the SA gets off the ground, but it has never gotten even close to a 'flip'. If the front comes up enough to take the weight off the forks, the tires slip. Also moved them with a Massey 65 (before it went in the shop for extensive work) - made it easy.

Why not a metal roof? The roof sheathing helps provide "wrack strength" to keep the building square. Not that steel doesn't, but moving a structure puts a LOT of stress on it which can buckle steel and/or elongate hole around roofing screws. Besides, I can fasten a piece of sheeting every 6" on rafters 16" OC. I'm not going to do that with a steel roof. It also doesn't sweat, doesn't bake in summer, and I got the shingles cheap as 'small lots': the chickens don't care if the color match isn't perfect.

Been using them for 3-6 years, and all are holding up well, even though most of them are moved up to 20 times a year.

As usual, YMMV.

I'd just use metal over purlins. Add some windows for ventilation in summer. In winter if you keep the bedding stirred it will keep them pretty dry.